MLE23PDAYQ Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Remove the door and the plastic brackets on the other side of the door opening. Remove the front cover by gentally pulling from the top first. Support the dryer basket (I used an old towel and a block of wood. With a 1/2 inch wrench remove the Roller Shaft with the Drum Support still attached. Replace new shaft and drum support. (always replace both at the same time or you will find that the problem will come back much sooner.) Careful when installing. Make sure that the new non metalic washers (suppied) are propery seated when you are tightening down the nut.

I unscrewed the door catch and pried out with some resistance the strike part. Screwed in the catch and pushed in the strike. Closed door. Voila!! Back in business with assurance.

Unplugged the dryer (don't forget this step guys!!!)

Pulled the front off the dryer (4 screws) and swapped the motor out - take off the belt, pull the blower wheel (by removing the snaprigs and squeeze collar), then pull off the motor retaining clips... unplug the motor and install the new one in reverse. Took me less than 2 hours and my dryer works like new.

WAY CHEAPER than a new dryer!!!

Read the instructions included with the parts, removed the 2 screws on the front of the dryer. Removed a couple of wire connections and 4 screws that held the drum in place. Moved the drum enough to have access to the roller supports. I removed the nut from the back of the supports with a 1/2" wrench. Placed the new supports on the old support pins and reinstalled them. Put it all back together. Probably the most difficult task was getting the drive belt back on the drum correctly. I was done in just over 1 hour.

looked at video on your web site my wife and I decided to try it ourselves we are 70 and 71 And I am in a wheelchair just had surgery so we ordered parts. received parts looked at repair video a couple of times and went for it. during process we had some moments of frustration but we went back to video. end result, screech is gone. could not have done it with out video thanks.

I removed the lower panel and control panel, then the front body panel. With those open, I removed the drum support and drum. I then removed the cover from the air guide, then unbolted the air guide from the motor assembly.

Then, I disconnected the wiring connector to the motor, unbolted the motor carrier from the bottom of the unit, and removed it. I removed the idler arm from the motor carrier, then unclipped the two clips holding the motor in the carrier.

At that point, while everything was out, I gave the carrier a thorough cleaning. I then placed the new motor, replaced the clips that hold it in place, and put everything back together in the reverse order of taking it apart.

While I was in the machine, since I had everything taken apart, I did also take the opportunity to replace the idler pulley and drum rollers proactively.

Several times I watched the video of "Steve" removing the old motor and installing the new one. Pretty much followed what he did. Faltered for a moment at the end reinstalling the drive belt as that was a blind procedure, done by feel. Hardest part was getting the spring clamps off the old motor; even Steve struggled a bit doing that part of the job on the video. But in the end, the dryver started right up and ran quieter than it has for months.

I ordered the wrong motor for my dryer PN PS3500892, the right one was PN PS11741125, the motor specs were the same but the shaft were different lengths and different blower fan and fasteners. Since I had the wrong motor in hand I worked with Parts Select to order the correct blower fan and fasteners for this motor. Got it all installed and everything fit as it should. even though this was a different part than I had before it saved me $100 by doing it this way, Thanks to Parts Select for helping me through this maze with me asking many questions about part sizes and fasteners. They did this all for my savings. Most parts places would not have gone this far for the customers benefit. Thank you very much Parts Select !

Remove front of cabinet, hinge the top back, remove the drum and drive belt, unplug the motor, remove cover on blower, remove snap ring on end of motor shaft, remove motor mount hold-downs, remove and replace motor in reverse order

repairmen said to buy a new dryer! or replace the motor! DO NOT EVEN THINK ABOUT IT!

It was the spring washer that was rubbing against the metal that was causing the very loud noise. The fiber washer that is used on the shaft on both sides of the roller had worn though and allowed the metal-metal contact. The fiber washer wore out! The fiber washers are very cheap!!!! in comparison to a motor or new dryer!


The drum rollers that support the rotating drum eventually wear out the fiber washer.
UNPLUG THE DRYER, DISCONNECT THE VENT
Remove the two screws on the lower front of the dryer panel, probably after you have tilted the unit backward. Remove the front panel by tilting out the bottom as there are two clips at the top. AFTER DOCUMENTING the CONNECTIONS - Disconnect the wires from the switch which is mounted on the front panel.
Carefully put the dryer on its back - be careful of the dryer vent to avoid damaging your floor or dryer vent!
Carefully pull the dryer drum up out of the dryer - as this is done the belt which moves the drum will fall away from the drum. I suggest before you remove the drum to eyeball the way the belt is tensioned and wrapped around the motor driveshaft, guard and tensioner. This will be the most difficult part of reassembling the machine. Some visual understand, maybe even pictures will help you later to get it installed correctly back into proper position... and it is NOT intuitive!
Once the drum is removed, the rollers are accessible. Rotate each and find the squeaker!
I recommend you replace the fiber washer on both, even though only one may be squeaking at this point (the other will be close to being worn out as well!).
I will not document the replacement of these parts as the assembly seems well documented elsewhere. I suggest you remain using the spring washer if there - as the after factory replacements do not seem to provide spring washers.
I would also suggest replacing the dryer drum belt, it is worn, after this many years, and putting in a new one will keep the dryer running for many more years. KNOWLEDGE IS POWER - USE IT

Followed the directions of the video and all went smooth. Cleaning the lint and parts was the more time consuming than the actual repair. 30 minutes for the repair and an hour for the clean. All and all very easy.

I've had this dryer since it was new It's over 25 years old. and it started to make a high pitch squealing sound when in use. Decided it's time to repair it. a new one is very expensive. So I ordered the parts from this site. When the parts arrived they where Inspected for fit, function and finish. So I proceeded with doing the repair myself. Short Phillips screw driver to remove the two sheet metal screws at the bottom front panel. tilted the panel from the bottom outward and removed it from the main tumbler cabinet. labeled the door switch wires one was yellow & one white. so I would not reinstall them incorrectly upon assembly. removed the front panel. set it aside. then removed the bulkhead panel 5/16" screw in each corner. removed that and set it aside. and there she was, the tumbler. I pulled the tensioner up to loosen the belt, and removed it. then grabbed the tumbler from the inside top slightly picked it upward and slid it out of the cabinet exposing the two rollers and axles one on each side that it sits on. at that point I noticed the drive belt was frayed and slightly worn. came back in the house and got on line ordered a new one from Parts Select it showed up a day later and a perfect match. the rollers are held in place by snap rings at the end of the axles. squeeze them they come off real easy, and on the back side there's a 14mm hex head nut. box wrench works good here to loosen the nut and remove the axles. the original washers are metallic and worn badly, they where making the high pitched squealing sound when they rotated so they came off and where replaced by the ones in the new roller kit and lubed with graphite not oil or grease. Graphite is dry and does not collect all the dirt and debris. put the new washers, new rollers & snap rings back on the axles grooves on the end, hand spun them and they where ready to roll. took the new belt placed it around the tumbler over the exact witness marks that where there so it would line up and lifted the tumbler back into the cabinet aligned the new belt over the motor pulley and tensioner lining it up exactly on the witness marks left by the old belt. slowly slid the tumbler back on to the new rollers rotated the tumbler a couple rotations clockwise to set the belt put the bulkhead back on the front with 5/16" sheet metal screws. in 4 corners, reinstalled the from panel along with the door switch wires and it was done. now the moment of truth. plug the machine in and turn it on!. Bingo! it runs so well you don't know it's even running. after this repair the machine performs even better. it actually takes LESS time for clothes to dry! AJS

Replaced the roller

I followed the repair videos which were very helpful and made the job easy to do. Anyone of average handyman skills should be able to perform the repair without difficulty.

I re-assembled, checked felts, and wear blocks,(good condition). I cleaned lint, removed coins from baffles, corrected several dents(minor), double checked wire condition and routing (good), finished re-installation, checked balance . all was good, and ran two loads of laundry. very quiet! Thanks