MUE15PDAYW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Removed front panel and tumbler, replaced roller axle,
wheel, and front glides. Anybody can do this.

Unplugged dryer and removed screws that hold door in place. removed screws that hold front panel. removed front panel. took drum belt off idler pulley. pulled drum out of dryer cabinet. unhooked wiring harness and removed motor. replaced motor and reversed steps to put back together. Thanks to partselect for getting me the parts so quickly. I ordered the motor on line on Friday and it was at my house on Saturday.

Unplug the dryer and pull it away from the wall so front and back can be accessed. Remove front panel. Remove front drum support. Remove rear access panel. Disengage drive belt from idler wheel. Make careful note of course of belt and which side is "outward". Remove drum through front. Remove Rollers using circlip pliers. Remove nuts behind shafts. Remove shafts. Clean-up area and parts before re-install.

Install new Shafts and nuts. Grease shafts. Install new Rollers, washers and clips. Drape drive belt over drum while reinstalling from front. Remount drive belt over drive and idler pullies from the rear access. During this step it helps to have a helper to position the belt around the drum in correct fore/aft position, lying flat and without twists, smooth side against drum. Install front drom support. Rotate drum to seat belt before closing up. Install rear panel cover. Install Front panel. Plug it in and turn it on for a test.

Remove the door and the plastic brackets on the other side of the door opening. Remove the front cover by gentally pulling from the top first. Support the dryer basket (I used an old towel and a block of wood. With a 1/2 inch wrench remove the Roller Shaft with the Drum Support still attached. Replace new shaft and drum support. (always replace both at the same time or you will find that the problem will come back much sooner.) Careful when installing. Make sure that the new non metalic washers (suppied) are propery seated when you are tightening down the nut.

Unscrewed door and front panel. Pulled and took the, off. Used standing flashlight to illuminate the area underneath the dryer barrel. Tried various tools to take out broken plastic remnants. Then, used small electric nutdriver to screw the tall baffle into place with newly purchased metal screws. Was a bit hard to reach and tight but finally worked once I found an appropriate tool and top.

We inherited this dryer three years ago upon purchasing our current house. At that time I found this website to purchase and install a couple of the baffles that were missing. This time, I checked the troubleshooting for my current problem and ordered all of the parts I felt I needed to resolve the problem. Once I received the parts, I followed the great how-to videos by Steve to disassemble the front of the dryer and remove the drum. I could not get to the repairs right away since the interior of the dryer was quite dirty and I took a lot of time to clean it out. Once I got to removing and replacing the drum rollers, idler pulley, rear drum felt shaft, and drum belt, everything went smoothly and was just as easy as Steve described in the videos. If I didn't have such a dirty machine interior, removing the old parts and installing the new parts would have taken less than an hour. I had to hold off on installing the front glide kit and front drum felt seal since I forgot to order two of each (I'll install these at a later date. I proceeded to putting everything back together and testing the dryer. The dryer now runs quietly and works great.

replaced

I removed the dryer door and attaching hardware to other covers. Raise the top cover and prop it up. Remove the drum retaining cover and disconnect the door switch wires, making note of their locations. Release tension on idler and take belt off of motor. Pull the drum out with belt still around it. Vacuum lint and dust from inside cabinet. Use snapring pliers and remove the snaprings on the drum rollers. Remove the old rollers and washers, clean the shafts and apply a light film of oil on the shafts. Install new rollers and plastic washers on shafts and secure with snaprings. Remove the "E" clip from the idler shaft and remove the old roller. Clean and lube the shaft and install the new idler and clip. Place the new belt on the drum with the ribs against the drum. Put the drum in place and install the front drum retainer. Position the belt around the motor pully and tensioner. Rotate the drum to get the belt to track. Attach the remaining covers.

We could not find directions for the brand that we have. First we took the back off, which we did not need to do.
lift the top of the dryer, remove the front remove drum. Place belt on front of motor, wrap double belt around support on bottom of dryer, open the remaining belt and stretch around drum. Hold drum in place, replace front and top.
Need at least 2 people, not at all intuitive.

Others have described how to remove 4 screws and remove the front panel of the dryer. The problem I saw is that some screws broke off and fell inside while others remained on the separated baffle. The old screws that I found were 1 1/4 inch. The parts manual indicates a replacement screw that is 1 inch long and a number 10 width. One set of holes for the baffles has slotted holes. It appears that wear in the paint indicates movement before breaking off. My solution to the slotted holes was to use washers on the screws and to tighten the screws in the position where any force was not going to move the screws to the center position of the slots. The force of the separation caused the slotted holes to expand.

The video was excellent and made for an easy repair. Would highly recommend.

First removed front door 2 screws holding it to frame, then removed 2 screws holding front cover panel on tilt out front panel, used vac to clean inside, removed idler arm with pully attached, replaced with new parts when I did a test run still had a llitle squeek, the drum support wheel on right looking from front making some squeeking,I went back in removed part shaft had small rust spot cleaned with jewelers cloth lubed and wiped off, no more squeek I wish I had ordered new drum wheel when I ordered idler parts, then I could have done a complete overhaul now I know more I have never worked on a dryer before the drawings on the web site heleped a lot

followed instructions on youtube. The only hitch was threading drive belt back on. the video showed from back instead of front.After I was done I noticed an access door in back that would have helped.

If you have the option to take a part the dryer before ordering the parts to track down the squeaking part, do so. In my case a squeaking part is still usable. Unfortunately the squeaking part was not the rollers or the belt depicted as a high percentage of the squeaking problems as noted on the webpage.My was the Idler Pulley. INSTALLATION of idler pulley, I started by watching the youtube videos, took pictures during the removal of the parts to assist in the installation. removed front panels parts, moved drum forward off the rollers, reached in and pulled the idler pulley to the left in order to remove belt. pulled the drum out. And with a flat head screw driver popped off the e clip (bought extra e clip just in case i lost it) reinstalled everything, BUT take note of the Idler pulley, it has one side bigger than the other BUT in the CLOSE UP VIDEO THE GENTLEMAN INSTALLS IT BACKWARDS. Not sure if this has a major effect on the pulley, but wanted to give it a heads up (your pictures will help you with this to keep track of how it should look at the end).

remove front of dryer with door to get to the back of lach pin. replace front. seprate innor and out door pieces use pliers to remove catch spring clamp ot replace catch screw innor and outor doors back togfther and put tools away your done