DE8000 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

I took off the front of the dryer with the screws at the bottom. I removed what wires would easily come off and took a picture to remember where they go. Then I took of the front panel and had to take off the cover for the blower wheel. Some screws were difficult to reach because they were in a very tight space. I used a combination of needle nose pliers and a hex screw bit to loose hared to reach hex screws.
For the felt seal on the front panel, I used a flathead screwdriver to remove the old seal and replace the new seal. The most tricky thing was making sure the seal was laying right along the drum when putting the front panel back on. Once back together, the skidding sound disappeared.
Replacing the blower wheel is pretty easy once I got past the difficult screws holding the cover down. I used snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring then put the new blower wheel on and put it all back together. I found that the tip diameter of the snap ring pliers needed to be less than 0.05'' to fit into the snap ring holes of both the snap rings for the roller wheels and the blower wheel.

This was pretty much as easy as most other folks had described on this site.
1. Removed the two screws at the front bottom that are holding on the fromt panel, and then lift up and remove the panel.
2. Disconnect the door-open-safety-switch, remembering which color of wire goes on which connection.
3. Remove the four screws (two on each side) on the front bracket that supports the drum and tthat contains the front glides.
4. Remove support bracket and lint trap, letting the drum rest gently on the stuff underneath.
5. Remove the screws holding the lint trap to the support bracket. (My model had five screws.) Remove lint trap from support bracket.
6. Drill out the two pop rivets on each of the two glides, noting the orientation of the teflon pad and mounting strip.
7. Secure - and here is where I had a little problem - new glides in place with pop rivets. (I hadn't use a rivet gun in a while, so I messed up the first pop rivet and had to go to the hardware store to get a replacement. I didn't hold the pop rivet in all the way while I was accuating the gun!)
8. Reverse the process for assembly, and you are all done.

It's simple.

Old latch and door striker were pried out with a flat blade screwdriver. New components popped right in. Repair was less than two minutes.

1: Removed heater cowling by removing 3 screws holding it in place.
2: Opened two halfs of the cowling by removing 4 screws on the flange.
3: Removed 2 nuts holding element ends to the cowling.
4: Removed bad element making note of how the element was threaded through porcelin element bracket/holders.
5: Installed new element.
6: Reversed steps 1-3

I had a repairman come by to take a look at my 20+ year old dryer because it wasn't working properly, NO HEAT. He said it was the cycling thermostat and wanted to charge me $190 to fix this problem. He left me the paperwork for this diagnose and charged me $49.50 for looking at the dryer. I called a friend of mine and told him what the repairman had said. He went into your website and found the part, the first time around we ordered the wrong part. No problem, I sent the wrong part back and reordered the proper one. It took him no more than 20 minutes to install this part. I received credit for the wrong part within 2 weeks. The dryer is working great. It’s good to know of a company that still can provide you with parts for a dryer as old as mine, thanks. It worked and it' still working!

Took off door, then removed front of dryer to access the internal controls. Project went pretty darn well

Removed front cover, removed housing cover, took old fan off, installed new fan, put covers back on.
Your instructional video was very helpful. He told which screws to remove to get the covers off. I was unsure about how access the fan until I watched. Well done!

Followed advice from here; unplugged machine from power source, removed two phillips head screws located just out of sight below the little indentaion on the front panel, removed front panel & set aside the machine. Unclipping the door switch wires allowed for enough slack so that they didn't need to be disconnected. Unscrewed (or un-hooked, don't remember) the lint box, pulled the drum out slightly, removed the belt, pulled drum out all the way & set aside. Removed the snap rings & wahsers from the idler wheels, removed wheels, put a light coating ot synthetic grease on the shafts & in the idler bushings, re-installed idlers, washers, & snap rings. Re-assembled in reverse order of assembly with alittle difficulty iin getting the new belt in the proper configuration. Removed small access panel in rear of machine to assist in installng the belt finally realizing that the belt DOES NOT go in the indented area of the drum, but on the larger diameter of the drum itself. Tested by rotating by hand, re-assembled front cover, plugged it in & dried the laundry......QUIETLY!

remove bottom section under door 2 screws remove door 2 screws remove switch by squeezing tabs install 2 new female ends on wires supplied with switch . put switch back in plug in wires .

Shut off or unplugged dryer for safety.

Slipped thin blade putty knife up under bezel of switch to unlatch from the panel and pulled forward to remove the swwitch from the dryer. Unplugged the quick connect terminals (3) from the old switch and plugged them onto the new switch. one of the terminals had gotten quite hot and darkened the insulation so it was replaced with one that was supplied with the switch. that was a cut, strip, crimp process. Placed the new switch into the panel and snapped into place.

Knowing most mfgs. put prints under the conturo panal we started there.
Diagonstics required a multi meter.
The part was removed and the internet serched.
My local parts center was more expensive and would have to order the part. I called Partselect
found exactly what i needed. placed the order with 3 to 5 day ground. Fedex arived the next day. The new part was installed and the dryer smoke tested. The dryer works great.

I observed that the top of the dryer was affixed by two screws at each front corner. With these removed the top of the dryer could be easily lifted and with the front support panel removed the drum, drive motor and idler pulley could be accessed. This allowed the installation of a new drum belt in a short period of time. Installing the belt from the front lower left hand side proved very difficult for me but with the top raised and coming in from the top it was accomplished in short order. Thank you, Wesley Harmon

I had to remove the drum. 1. remove lower panel. 2.remove the vent duct. 3.Remove the door (be sure to mark the door switch electrical wire with tape NO, NC, COM). the switch is marked. 4 Slacken the drive belt by removing from its idler pulley. 5.Pull the drum forward & out, by lifting the top without removing it (may have to struggle a bit by bending the sides of the dryer outward). 6.Large 3/4" socket remove the squrrel cage fan counter clock-wise. 7.Unplug the wire harness to the motor and with a large flat bladded screw driver push the spring clamps down & out-ward to remove them.
I always take pictures with my digital camera before removing a part so when I reinstall the part if a question of position or what went were I have it documented in my camera to view.
I install the belt and use scotch tape to hold it in place before I reinstall the drum.
The best part was being able to access the interior of the dryer to clean the lint out.
I hope this helps!

How to repair a Maytag Dryer. (Call the nearest serviceman.)
Shut off the power and unplug the machine.
Open the 'box'. Two screws in the front near the floor and hinge open.
Make a diagram of ever screw and piece you remove.
Diagnose the problem.
Order the necessary parts from ....
Replace the part. (The element replace the second time in 30 years.)
Give the box a cleaning inside and out.
Put it back together.
Make sure all the parts you took out go back in.
Plug it in and turn on the power.
Test it.

Using a magnet to hold all the screws was helpful.
Having all the right tools is helpful. The requirements were pretty basic.
A good mechanical aptitude is essential or very helpful.
It is very important the exhaust port is patent. A leaf blower would be helpful in testing. I reversed the hose on our vacumn cleaner and packed foam around the tubbing to test it. (The local dealer warn me about using too much of the clothes softner.)
Karl Spees on behalf of my wife Soonja

Press in the new female latch part with thumbs. Took about two seconds!