MGD6300TQ0 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

First I replace the Radiant Flame Sensor, but the problem remain. Then replace the two coils and the igniter. Dryer works like it should. If I were to do it over, I would have replaced all 4 components to start with. Thanks for good advice and great service.

Replaced the flame sensor since it was believed to be the problem contributing to the lack of flame in this gas dryer. However, this part did not correct the problem.

Popped the old catch out (but was not as easy to get out as described) but did pop back in very easily! The video was a great help!

The door catch dislodged in the door and apparently broke. The hardest part was getting it out of the door because in trying to remove it, the piece fell into the inside of the door. I could have easily just installed the new part (it snaps right in with great ease, that part took exactly 5 seconds). But hearing that old piece rattle around inside the door would have made me a little nuts. So I decided to take the door apart to retrieve it. It was just a bunch of screws from around the perimeter of the door, but I also had to unhinge it to do the job. Putting the door back together wasn't as easy as I had hoped, with some pretty tight fits and the glass dislodging. Had a few moments where I was regretting. But I got the old part out, snapped the new one right in. I'm sure an appliance guy would have charged me $60 - 90 just for coming out. Instead I repaired the dryer for the cost of a $3 part. One small lesson learned here -- dryer doors are much like refrigerator doors, or at least mine is. There is a door catch on both sides of the door so you can hinge it to open either way. I could have done the repair for nothing! But I love parts select for just this reason. I don't do major repairs, but replacing pieces on appliances couldn't be easier with this service!

Un-plug dryer. Remove front of dryer. Remove spring from idler arm. remove screw from idler arm. Replace idler arm. install screw to idler arm. replace spring to idler arm. Make sure belt is running on arm wheel correctly. Replace front of dryer. Plug dryer in.

I had purchased a motor for the dryer first. The blower wheel broke while I was trying to take the motor off from the blower wheel. Installing the new wheel was fairly easy once I took the blower cover of at the back of the dryer and literally brake the wheel of the motor shaft.

Took off front bottom panel reached in removed part that was very dusty. Put in new part. Cleaned out lint inside dryer. Works like a charm.

Removed the front lower skirt with two 1/4"hex screws. Vaccumed all inner parts exposed. Removed three 1/4" screws holding the blower housing.Memoved the bias thermister again two 1/4" screws. Make sure all inner exaust pipes and rear chimney gas or electric are clean and lint free. Re assemble and test the unit. Install the skirt and make sure the dryer is level Jack, Pa.

I read some of the repairs of other people and this best described my situation. I ordered the Radiant Flame Sensor and followed the step by step instructions in the video for the repair, which by the way was excellent. It couldn't have been easier. My most difficult part of the repair was moving my dryer out of the laundry closet.

diognostic suggested thermal fuse or thermistor. Thermistor tested low resistance (<2K olms). Replaced thermistor and dryer heat returned.

Unplugged dryer and moved away from wall about 0ne foot. Removed lint catcher. Removed two screws holding lint catcher duct to top of dryer. Removed top of dryer by inserting putty knife into gap between top and front cover of dryer at both front corners, beginning with left side first. A slight amount of pressure and a little bit of wiggling helped to release the clip holding the dryer top on. Leaned top back and secured with a stick. Removed two screws on inside of front cover near top. Pulled up on front cover to remove. (Leave dryer door closed during this process). Removed front cover and set aside. Layed on floor and looked at Tensioner/idler pulley and made a drawing of the belt configuration at the pulley. Pulled pulley back to remove tension and removed belt from pulley. Used socket and ratchet to remove bolt holding tensioner/idler. Installed new tensioner/idler and reinstalled belt. reassembled dryer and tested.

changed fuse,radiant flame sensor. no help. bought a new dryer. i don't think the gas valuve was opening.everything seemed to be working properly,just no gas.

Followed troubleshooting steps. Checked thermal fuse (shorted)- OK. Checked igniter (about 70 ohms) - OK. checked flame sensor - (open) BAD (should read shorted). This part is normally shorted then opens when the igniter gets hot causing it to open and thus turns on the gas flow. An open flame sensor does not permit the igniter to turn on.

I just knew it had to be the heat sensor unable to activate the actual ignition. I following the directions and video for the installation of the heat sensor #PS344761. It went very smoothly. Upon completion of the installation, the click, then the flame roared to life and I felt like a real do-it-selfer!! This was short lived. The wetness of the clothes had no effect. Something I did not do and I certainly know better was to check and see what was taking place before I replaced the "damaged" sensor. No, I was just so sure there was no need of that. You say, put the old back in and watch what happens....I recycled the old one immediately. Sigh! We have had two weeks of rain and I'm really tired of damp clothes everywhere. I will read other alternatives and report back. DClark, TX

This was by far so easy the instruction Partselect gave me where right on step by step. a repair man was going to charge 75$ just to come out 9$ from partselect. Thank you very much Mike chaplin