MGD6300TQ0 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

I just knew it had to be the heat sensor unable to activate the actual ignition. I following the directions and video for the installation of the heat sensor #PS344761. It went very smoothly. Upon completion of the installation, the click, then the flame roared to life and I felt like a real do-it-selfer!! This was short lived. The wetness of the clothes had no effect. Something I did not do and I certainly know better was to check and see what was taking place before I replaced the "damaged" sensor. No, I was just so sure there was no need of that. You say, put the old back in and watch what happens....I recycled the old one immediately. Sigh! We have had two weeks of rain and I'm really tired of damp clothes everywhere. I will read other alternatives and report back. DClark, TX

I had purchased a motor for the dryer first. The blower wheel broke while I was trying to take the motor off from the blower wheel. Installing the new wheel was fairly easy once I took the blower cover of at the back of the dryer and literally brake the wheel of the motor shaft.

diognostic suggested thermal fuse or thermistor. Thermistor tested low resistance (<2K olms). Replaced thermistor and dryer heat returned.

Removed the front lower skirt with two 1/4"hex screws. Vaccumed all inner parts exposed. Removed three 1/4" screws holding the blower housing.Memoved the bias thermister again two 1/4" screws. Make sure all inner exaust pipes and rear chimney gas or electric are clean and lint free. Re assemble and test the unit. Install the skirt and make sure the dryer is level Jack, Pa.

I read some of the repairs of other people and this best described my situation. I ordered the Radiant Flame Sensor and followed the step by step instructions in the video for the repair, which by the way was excellent. It couldn't have been easier. My most difficult part of the repair was moving my dryer out of the laundry closet.

After getting on-line to your site we looked up what the problem could be after receiving the dryer from a friend to transfer from electric to gas to save money. First we thought it to be the ignitor and after receiving it so quickly it still didn't work so went to your site again and found the Flame sensor. They were both defective and now it works wonderful!!! Your site also explains what and how to repair the appliance, which my husband appreciated! We are glad you contacted us because your site did not show that we could send you and e-mail Thanking your company for the excellant service we received. Your prices can't compare to other companies either, we were amazed on the differences. When you say the next day delivery, you mean the next day!!! Thankyou and you are now in my Favorites if ever needing parts for other appliances we own.

unplugged dryer and removed front panel. removed the screw that holds flame sensor and unplugged electrical wires. then replaced with new. Did not solve problem so I ordered the replacement coil kit and installed them using phillips screw driver and this solved problem. Dryer is working fine now. I found this site very helpful and would recommend it to a friend.

After reviewing the video of the fellow popping out the old door catch with a putty knife and popping in a new one, I tried that myself and there was no way it was going to come out without applying enough pressure to tear up the finish on the door. Tried the option of compressing the catch vertically with pliers and could get top or bottom out but not both. Believe my I have a garage full of tools and am very handy and this method was not going to work on my dryer. Finally removed the door and laid on carpet, took out all the screws and removed the catch from the back by squeezing with pliers. Replaced with the catch from the other side after doing the same.Re-assembled no problem. Ordered a replacement that I put in the unused side for next time.

flipped THE BREAKER (very important!). Removed the cover on the bottom of the dryer (2 screws), made easier because dryer is stacked on top of washer. Removed the heater box (3 screws). Thermistor located on top of the blower housing (right side). removed old thermistor (2 screws) and unplugged the wires. Plugged the wires into new thermistor, installed the thermistor, replaced the heater box, then tested the dryer. It seemed to work fine. Replaced the cover. It has worked fine ever since.

Followed the easy to understand how to video. The drier was up and heating again in less then 30 minutes.

Un-plug dryer. Remove front of dryer. Remove spring from idler arm. remove screw from idler arm. Replace idler arm. install screw to idler arm. replace spring to idler arm. Make sure belt is running on arm wheel correctly. Replace front of dryer. Plug dryer in.

On the Amana dryer, I had to remove the top panel. then the front panel to access the burner assembly. I also had to remove the gas pipe coming to the burner, because I replaced the tube burner assembly at the same time. There is only one screw that holds that back end of that gas pipe. The thermal flame sensor is on the left side of the burning chamber, with only one small Phillips head screw. just remove the 2 wires, keeping track of which terminal they belong. Just twist the sensor out of the small slot, and out it comes. The tube burner assembly is fastened with 2 screws. The entire burner assembly comes out in one piece, but be real careful not to bang the igniter when removing it. The coil assembly has 2 wires, which you cannot get wrong, because one has 2 prongs, the other has 3 wires.The local repair shop wanted 90 bucks per hour, plus parts, and I installed both the burner tube and radiant flame sensor for around $80.

Ordered thermal fuse and cycling thermostat

Unplugged dryer and moved away from wall about 0ne foot. Removed lint catcher. Removed two screws holding lint catcher duct to top of dryer. Removed top of dryer by inserting putty knife into gap between top and front cover of dryer at both front corners, beginning with left side first. A slight amount of pressure and a little bit of wiggling helped to release the clip holding the dryer top on. Leaned top back and secured with a stick. Removed two screws on inside of front cover near top. Pulled up on front cover to remove. (Leave dryer door closed during this process). Removed front cover and set aside. Layed on floor and looked at Tensioner/idler pulley and made a drawing of the belt configuration at the pulley. Pulled pulley back to remove tension and removed belt from pulley. Used socket and ratchet to remove bolt holding tensioner/idler. Installed new tensioner/idler and reinstalled belt. reassembled dryer and tested.

The door catch assembly is designed to slide into a hole stamped in the sheet metal. Normally, the repair only requires the use of pliers to grasp the top and bottom of the catch, compressing them enough to slide the catch out of the door. The new catch can be inserted through the hole and snapped into place the same way. In my case, the catch was a very tight fit, so I had to remove the door from the dryer, remove the screws that hold the outside and inside door sections together, replace the damaged door catch, reassemble and re-mount the door. Having to do that increased the completion time for a simple repair that would normally take less than five minutes.