DE24CT Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Unplugged the dryer, Very important, there is voltage on on of the wires to the heater.
I first removed the 2 screws on the lower part of the front cover and rotated this out of the way, no need to disconnect any wires. removed 2 small screws that hold the heater assy. cover plate and the one screw in the front bottom of the heater assy. I then removed the one screw at the top back of the heater. this completely frees the heater assy.
I then removed the push on wire from the thermistor and the other wire from the lug and I transferred the thermistor to the new unit. Now it is time to reverse the process making sure the entire circumference of the heater assy goes into the hole in the back. This can be a little tricky if the new assy is out of round. Just work it in, it will fit. Very easy, only about 20 min from start to finish...

Turn off circuit breaker or unplug. Remove two screws 4 inches from bottom front panel of cabinet with stubby phillips head. Pull panel towards you about 30 degrees; then wiggle it down, to free two steel spring clips holding it to cabinet. Pull off red and yellow wire from door switch. Now set front panel aside. Blower assembly is facing you at lower left. Open the housing by removing six small screws from cover and one attached to dryer base. Remove spring clip from end of shaft. (A circlip pliers helps to prevent it from springing off somewhere.). Squeeze spring retainer surrounding blower wheel shaft with regular pliers, and wiggle the blower off. Replace in reverse order. Be sure insulation around blower wheel housing seats properly into front panel. This keeps the hot air flowing up past the lint trap.
Easy job, about half hour. Mine took longer, because I had removed the belt and drum, thinking the noise came from bad drum support rollers. It was just the plastic blower wheel shaft seat, which had worn itself round. Cost $20 (including shipping) and my 29-year old Maytag is as good as new--at least for now.

Removed the two lower screws holding front of dryer assembly in place and "unhinged" it and stood it up on floor. Then I unclipped the two wire leads on inside of dryer door assembly and moved assembly completely out of work area. Next I removed the four screws holding the tumbler frame in place and removed that frame from the work area. Now you can access the blower wheel "frame" and remove 5 or 6 hex screws to get that off and out of your way. You DO NOT have to remove the dryer drum and/or drum belt to complete this repair, so save yourself some work and leave it in place!! Once the blower wheel frame is off, use pliers and a flatheaded screwdriver to get the small outer retaining clip off, and then just pliers to get the wheel retaining ring off the wheel shaft. Put on the new blower wheel, use pliers to replace the aforementioned wheel retaining ring, and then the small outer retaining clip...VIOLA! You're finished! Dryer will run like new with a smooth purr instead of that dreaded rumbling sound.

Followed instruction video

The directions for the door latch kit told you to take the front of the washer apart to remove the old latch. But in my case the latch was broken in such a way that was not necessary. The new part just popped into place! No more fridge magnets holding the door closed!!!

And the new lint filter is great, the old one was so gunked up with old lint it was becoming difficult to clean.

I don't really know how old my dryer is, I purchased it used about 3 years ago.

No tools required, just insert the new lint filter in place of the old one. My dryer is about 20 years old. I think I was lucky to even be able to find a replacement lint filter.

Just pulled out the old filter and inserted the new one. went great and fit good.

I bought a new one and replaced it.

Took longer to open the box that it did to drop the new lint filter into the dryer. Washed a load of clothes and the new dryer filter worked great

Thanks.

R. Bonker

The numbers on the metal plates were the JC Penney numbers - that no one recognizes. I eventually found the model number inside the timer case on a printed schematic. I started by disassembling whatever metal covers were removable by finding sheet metal screws and unscrewing them. If you pull on the sheet metal covers, you can find where they are connected to the frame. Eventually, I found that both the heating element was broken and the thermostat was fried. It took a while looking at various websites to find the proper parts. It's all OK now.

This is going to be easy!!!

#1 First removed two screws at the bottom of the front cover Pulled the bottom out first to loosen the top and then gently pulled down to remove front cover.
#2 took a duster to remove the dust and cob webs:)
#3 Looked at the parts and then removed the heater element I used a SHORT nut driver for that.
#4 Once removed I inspected the parts farther to look for more damage (there was no more)
Now the fun part...
#5 The heater assembly. go's into the hole at an angle. You MUST be really tiny or have freakishly long arms to reach the back and screw that screw in.
#6 have wife with small hands that wants to try while you vent your frustration because you cant reach the screw hole and you lost a screw.
#7 Be ready to push hard on the assembly. while you screw the screw back into the hole.
#8 put the front of the heater back on.....check to make sure its all in there and hooked up like it should be.
#9 put front cover back on.
#10 dry clothes, and wonder why it was so hard. knowing is half the battle, Its going to be a 10 min job next time.

Not certain as to reason for no heat, I first completely disassembled the dryer. This probably wasn't necessary but since the dryer is around 28 years old, I wanted to inspect and test all wiring, thermostats, etc. Testing revealed that it was the dryer element and it was quite easy to remove and replace the entire heater assembly.

I'm glad I completely dissassembled the dryer because it gave me a chance to clean up a few decades of lint accumulation on and in every part. Reassembly was a little more problematic as it takes a couple of extra hands to hold and align the drum and the top once you've reassebled the base, sides and other parts. Not overly difficult, just make sure you note where all the wiring is to be reconnected and save the screws and bolts in a baggy until you're ready for reassembly.

Other than waiting for the part to arrive (3 days) time spent in dissassembly and reassembly wasn't much more than a couple of hours.

Overall, the repair was pretty easy. I'm a 52 year old woman who has never done drier repair. I replaced both front glides, both drum support roller wheels, the idler pulley wheel and the tumbler and motor belt. Including vacuuming out the inside of dryer and washing down the inside and outside of dryer with cleaning wipes, the whole project took me 2 hours. (if done individually, time would have been 20-30 minutes). You must have correct tools, so I did have to purchase two tools that I didn't have. My only suggestion in replacing the idler pulley wheel and the tumbler/motor belt would be to take the small access panel off the back of the dryer for easier access to the parts.

Looked in one of the back removable panels and saw the broken belt. Took the machines front panel off per a You Tube video and saw the repair was simple but too the time to vacuum out a large amount of Lint Debris that had accumulated over the past 34 years all over the inside of the machine which is dangerous.. After cleaning it all up I simply put the new belt on and put everything back together and it all works nicely again!

I had replaced other parts on this dryer before (drive belt, interlock switch), so knew how to remove the front. That is easy to do. Didn't even have to pull dryer away from the wall. Removed heater assembly. NOTE: take a picture, or note which wires go where! Took a chance that it was only the heating element after measuring the resistance of the element and noting that it was an open circuit (very high resistance). Could also have been something else in addition, but turned out, not. The hard part was getting the new housing assembly to fit in the circular hole at the back. It comes as a poor fit, not shaped right. I eventually just used pliers to bend in the edges, like crimping, and finally got it to fit in. Some pushing to get all screws back in place and now it runs and heats. A great dryer, over 30 years old, and still going. Well worth the effort to repair.