DE24CT Maytag Dryer - Instructions

I began by unplugging the dryer cord to cut any power to the appliance. I removed the front two screws that hold the front cover on and removed the front cover. I began by cleaning the lint and dust out of the dryer. After getting a look at it, I Googled Maytag to get an idea of possibilities of the problem. I took out the 4 screws that held the heating element into the dryer, and unhooked two wirers,( making sure there was no electrical source). I pulled the heating element out and immediately saw that the element wire was broken. I called Partselect and the person on the other end of the line was extremely knowledeable and willing to help. I was given the option of ordering the heating wire and stringinging it in the original housing or I could order the comlpete heating unit for a little more which woold save me from the extra work of installing it and also insure that the insulators that the wires went through were all new and I would not have to inspect each one and possibly have the same problem later if I missed a bad one and the heating element would short out and I would be back where I was now. I felt good that in hard economic times I could get my appliance up and running without calling the repairman @ 100dollars an hour. There was a fantastic sense of accomplishment that I fixed it myself! I could brag about that. Before I would throw the appliance away and get another used one. I had already shopped the local papers and craigs list but did not need to leave the house for it and arrange hauling because the parts were sent to my house and I was able to repair it myself. It was really a rewarding experiance and turned out fantastic! Parselect was a pleasure to deal with.

The repair video is terrific and many others here have thoroughly described the steps involved to replace the drive motor.

The biggest hurdle for me was that the motor came with a new switch that required a different wiring configuration. No wiring diagram was included. Several others had posted questions about wiring in the Q&A and unfortunately PartSelect kept copy/pasting the same confusing and incomplete answer over and over:

"The Yellow goes to T6, Red to T5 Black to T2, blue to T1 and the white you will remove the blue jumper lead between the switch terminal 4 and 1/4" protector tab, connect the grey harness lead to the 1/4" protector tab."

Reading that doesn't tell me what to do with the white wire, doesn't address that my blue and white wires were crimped into the same connector from the factory, doesn't address that I had 2 black wires crimped into the same connector from the factory, and doesn't address a factory ground wire that connected the frame of the OEM motor to the bracket that the motor sits in.

With all the other excellent info supplied by PartSelect, this was surprising and frustrating. The sales dept ignored an emailed question from me, and the Q&A section didn't allow me to post a question.

Searching the internet, I found a wiring diagram on aceappliancesd dot com that addressed my dryer's OEM wiring configuration. Here's what I ended up with:

TI - Blue and white, crimped together into a single connector
T2 - Black & black, crimped together into a single connector (the wiring diagram I found said this should be black & brown, but they both look black to me)
T5 - Red
T6 - Yellow
1/4" Thermal protector tab - Grey (from the harness)

The new motor switch had a grounding tab with nothing connected to it. I removed the screw holding that tab into the switch and connected the (also grey) OEM short ground wire from the motor frame to the mounting bracket.

I had to cut 2 of the pieces of tape holding the OEM wiring harness together in order to get enough slack for all the connections to reach. If you do this too, make sure all the wires are still clear of the moving parts and the hot bits. You may need to retape the wires together at a different location to keep things tidy.

I also laid the belt over the drum and put 2 pieces of tape over it to hold it in place while I got the drum positioned, then I reached through the back access panel to loop the belt around the motor pulley and idler. Once that's done, just reach over the top of the drum and peel the tape off. I found that much easier than trying to loop the belt by reaching through and past the drum.

Installation of drum support kit was difficult because my snap ring pliers would not fit in the snap ring holes. Had to use pliers and screw driver to get them off and to put them back on. That took much patience and time. Installation of front guides was a bit difficult because the rivets were loose and turned when trying to drill them out. Also they were bigger and I needed a larger drill bit than the 1/8 told about in the video. Used drill, screw driver and pliers to get the rivets out. Also took more time and patience to do this. Belt did not need replacement but felt it a good idea to do it as long as I was in there. Belt installation was easy because my dryer has a rear view opening and I could use it to thread the belt. Tried it from the front as shown in the video just to see if I could and found it impossible. Could not even get my hands to hold the belt. Also vacuumed out 20 years of lint and dust that was inside the dryer. The videos were excellent in showing what to do and how to do it. Not sure how well I would have done without them.

I didn't think it would fit as it looked bigger then the old one, I called the service department and they were very helpful. They made note of the fact that I had called with questions in case I had to call again, but it worked, and no one laughed at me. It was very nice of them. Thank you for all the help

Per instructions I printed off online: took off door, then the front panel. Pulled out the old switch/button, connected the new switch/button, made sure the new button was working; put the panel back on then the door and DONE!

Replaced both rollers,shafts, bearings and snap rings.

I removed the front 2 screws witha phillips shorty due to there proximity to the floor. I removed the heater plate the wiring and the heating element in about 10 minutes, the only issue I had was sue to the fact that the heater is 2 pieces and not totally cylindrical it was kind of a pain to get it back into the hole on the back side, I ended up having to form it better into a circle so that I could get it in. After that the rest putting it back together was no big deal. The unit now works great.

If your dryer is making a rumbling noise, change the blower wheel. It's plastic and the heating and cooling cycles causes the keyway in the plastic to give out and the wheel just spins causing the noise and the slower dry time. The other parts I replaced see below. Like many other repairs, remove screws below dryer door. Mark all wires and locations for re-assembly. Next remove front tumbler/lint screen assembly (4 sheet metal screws 2/L 2/R. Work belt off back of tumbler and remove. Use flathead screw driver to release tabs that hold felts on both front and back tumble supports. Make sure you know rotation of tumbler and install new felts so the overlap goes in direction of spin. Use a drum stick or 3/8 ratchet extension, something dull and flat to press tabs back down on felts. A screwdriver could slip off and tear cloth. Next drill out heads of the rivets on the glides and remove teflon glide and cork backer. Make sure all rivet material is removed front and back. Install new cork and glide. Rivet one side back in, then the other. Repeat on 2nd glide. Re-assemble dryer. Super smooth, super quiet.

I had replaced belt, but the noise continued. Ordered new rollers and washer. Removed the front panel by tipping the dryer back against the wall and removing two screws at the bottom of the panel. Tipping the dryer makes it easy to remove the front panel. Removed the front drum support by removing four (4) screws. I was then able to just move the drum enough to have access to the rollers. Didn't even have to remove the belt. Replaced the rollers. Needed special pliers to remove and replace the retaining rings. Put the drum back into position and mounted the front drum support. Tightened four screws and then put the front panel back on. Plugged it in and tested it. Problem solved. Took about 35 minutes. Thanks

Undid two screws in lower front of dryer and popped off front. Removed screws holding lint screen duct and brackets supporting tumbler and removed duct and tumbler quite easily. Pulled, cleaned and oiled rear rollers, replaced front glides, and thoroughly cleaned exhaust duct of lint. Put new belt into position on the roller before sliding tumbler back in, then pulled belt over tumbler as it went in. Be careful to follow belt path directions correctly.
Key to this repair was obtaining the parts so easily from Parts Select.com. Ordered at 2pm and had them 2pm the following day. Unbelievable! These machines are relatively simple to keep running when the parts are available so easily. Thanks for great service.

The numbers on the metal plates were the JC Penney numbers - that no one recognizes. I eventually found the model number inside the timer case on a printed schematic. I started by disassembling whatever metal covers were removable by finding sheet metal screws and unscrewing them. If you pull on the sheet metal covers, you can find where they are connected to the frame. Eventually, I found that both the heating element was broken and the thermostat was fried. It took a while looking at various websites to find the proper parts. It's all OK now.

This is going to be easy!!!

#1 First removed two screws at the bottom of the front cover Pulled the bottom out first to loosen the top and then gently pulled down to remove front cover.
#2 took a duster to remove the dust and cob webs:)
#3 Looked at the parts and then removed the heater element I used a SHORT nut driver for that.
#4 Once removed I inspected the parts farther to look for more damage (there was no more)
Now the fun part...
#5 The heater assembly. go's into the hole at an angle. You MUST be really tiny or have freakishly long arms to reach the back and screw that screw in.
#6 have wife with small hands that wants to try while you vent your frustration because you cant reach the screw hole and you lost a screw.
#7 Be ready to push hard on the assembly. while you screw the screw back into the hole.
#8 put the front of the heater back on.....check to make sure its all in there and hooked up like it should be.
#9 put front cover back on.
#10 dry clothes, and wonder why it was so hard. knowing is half the battle, Its going to be a 10 min job next time.

Not certain as to reason for no heat, I first completely disassembled the dryer. This probably wasn't necessary but since the dryer is around 28 years old, I wanted to inspect and test all wiring, thermostats, etc. Testing revealed that it was the dryer element and it was quite easy to remove and replace the entire heater assembly.

I'm glad I completely dissassembled the dryer because it gave me a chance to clean up a few decades of lint accumulation on and in every part. Reassembly was a little more problematic as it takes a couple of extra hands to hold and align the drum and the top once you've reassebled the base, sides and other parts. Not overly difficult, just make sure you note where all the wiring is to be reconnected and save the screws and bolts in a baggy until you're ready for reassembly.

Other than waiting for the part to arrive (3 days) time spent in dissassembly and reassembly wasn't much more than a couple of hours.

Removed front panel and tumbler, replaced roller axle,
wheel, and front glides. Anybody can do this.

I UNPLUGGED TH UNIT.Removed the 2 screws holding the front panel in place, disconnected the electrical leads on the panel. These screws are located on each side of the panel 3 in. from the bottom. Removed the 4 screws holding the shroud. Disconnected the ground wire on the shroud & set both aside. Installed the new belt per the diagram & instructions. Turned the tumbler by hand a few times to verify proper installation. Re-installed the shroud & front panel including reconnecting the leads & ground wire. You need to use both hands in a tight space to install the belt on the pulley & guide(a littledificult) The new belt fit perfectly & the instructions were easy to follow & accurate.