MDE16CSAYW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

After reading all the other repair stories on Partselect, by the way thank you all, I removed the door, then removed the two security hooks that hold the top secure. Then I removed the front panel. I then marked all the screws on the outer door and shroud so I could easily put it back together. I left the all the wires connected and set the shroud and outer door to the side and removed the drum belt and drum. Removed the spring off the idler arm, then using nutdriver, removed the screw that secures the idler arm to the motor. Assembled the new idler arm parts and reversed the process to put it all back together. If I would have replaced the idler arm assembly the same time I replaced the drum support rollers, I wouldn't have had to do this twice! But now I am an expert repair tech on this particular model.

Took off door, then removed front of dryer to access the internal controls. Project went pretty darn well

took old one out then i had to strip the connector off new one was to big...

Okay, first of all, just let me say, if I can do this, ANYONE can. I am not very handy when it comes to things like this. I watched online videos and they will walk you through everything. I am so pleased with the results. Quiet as can be now. Before, we would have to shut the door when it was on because the scretching was so loud! The parts on this site were far more affordable than at my local repair store and they all came right to my doorstep. Overall it took me about 45 minutes and three beers :) Good luck!

Knowing most mfgs. put prints under the conturo panal we started there.
Diagonstics required a multi meter.
The part was removed and the internet serched.
My local parts center was more expensive and would have to order the part. I called Partselect
found exactly what i needed. placed the order with 3 to 5 day ground. Fedex arived the next day. The new part was installed and the dryer smoke tested. The dryer works great.

Shut off or unplugged dryer for safety.

Slipped thin blade putty knife up under bezel of switch to unlatch from the panel and pulled forward to remove the swwitch from the dryer. Unplugged the quick connect terminals (3) from the old switch and plugged them onto the new switch. one of the terminals had gotten quite hot and darkened the insulation so it was replaced with one that was supplied with the switch. that was a cut, strip, crimp process. Placed the new switch into the panel and snapped into place.

Replaced thermal fuse and replaced door switch

remove bottom section under door 2 screws remove door 2 screws remove switch by squeezing tabs install 2 new female ends on wires supplied with switch . put switch back in plug in wires .

A year or so ago I replaced one drum wheel. The dryer worked fine for months until it started sqeaking again. When I removed the wheels again the shaft was no longer round but half moon shaped. this allowed the drum to drop lower than it's supposed to. consequently the drum ate through the back drum support. I replaced the back drum support and the roller shafts, in addition to two new rollers. It works great now. The more difficult part of the repair was replacing the rear drum support. It is screwed in from the back and requires two people. Everything else I did by myself. The lesson: If you replace the rollers, be sure the roller shafts are not worn. An asymetric shaft eventually causes more parts to wear out.

If you are cursed with owning a Maytag product then you'll be glad PartSelet.com is in business. I get all my parts here.

My dryer motor burnt a phase. The tear down was very straight forward since there isn't much to a dryer. I did the tear down in the driveway. The dryer was full of lint so I blasted it with compressed air to clean it up. Keep all your parts in labeled baggies as you do the tear down. Reassembly goes much faster. The hardest part about changing the motor was getting the motor clips off. They are tough buggers. I used slip-joint pliers & finally popped them off. This job is simply enough for the average monkey. Just use the diagrams on partselect.com if you forget where something goes.

I shipped everything via fedex 2-day. It took 5 days to get here. partselect shipped it fast. fedex was the problem. I guess the boys at fedex have a public education is they think 5=2.

It was very simple. I removed the fromt cover on the dryer. The heating element was easy to get to and after removing all the attached wires and 4 nuts. The new element was installed, reattached the wire correctly and put the screws back in place. It was extremely easy to complete.

I watched the video

First I put the square female end iof the door catch kit nto the square hole as snug as I could. Then I gently pushed the door against the piece until I heard it click in to place. That's it!! Sooooo simple--

The replacement part just snapped into place. (The old part had fallen out) It took less than 30 seconds to do the repair.

Tools required: Stubby socket wrench, 5/16" socket, 1/2" socket, 1/4" socket, #3 Phillips screwdriver, external circlip pliers, straight slip joint pliers. A decently strong electric screwdriver is highly recommended - Milwaukee 2401-20 M12 cordless 1/4" Hex Screwdriver, for example.

Unplug the dryer. Turn off the gas supply.

Remove the screws holding the door hinges to the dryer.

Remove the door and hinges from the dryer by pulling the door and hinges up, then out.

Remove the two plastic thingies (door stops), opposite of where the hinges were, from the front panel of the dryer. Each plastic piece is held in place by two screws.

Grasp the front panel by its top edge, pull it toward you, then lift the panel up and off the clips at the bottom.

There are a couple metal brackets holding the top of the dryer down to the front shroud (the doorway) and frame, one on either side. Each bracket is held in place by two screws. Remove the screws, remove the brackets, then rock the top panel up and back, like the hood of a car.

Remove the screws holding the shroud to the frame. Look carefully. There are two screws that look like they hold the shroud to the frame, but actually do not. Don't remove these screws yet.

Remove the screws holding the plastic duct / lint screen slot to the shroud. These are very long.

Disconnect the wires from the door switch.

Remove the shroud.

Remember the two screws I referenced previously, stating they shouldn't yet be removed? Now's the time to remove them. Do so, then set the panel aside, being careful not to damage any wires. Don't lose the rubber gasket sitting around the circular portion of the duct.

There's a metal cover over the blower wheel. This cover is held in place by a bunch of screws. Remove them all, then remove the cover.

Remove the circlip going around the blower shaft, in front of the blower wheel.

Remove the clamp from around the blower wheel and shaft.

Pull the blower wheel off the shaft.

Install the new blower wheel.

Reinstall the clamp around the blower wheel and shaft.

Reinstall the circlip.

Reinstall the metal blower cover.

Make sure the rear of the drum is resting on the wheels.

Now things become a little difficult, because you have to fight the drum a little bit. Put the panel containing the moisture sensor, front drum seal, and duct into position. (Be careful not to mess up the drum glides. Make sure the rubber seal at the bottom of the vent is in place, sealing the vent to the blower.) Screw the panel into place with two screws, but don't fully tighten yet.

There's a felt seal that is supposed to go between the rear lip of the drum and the rear inside wall. The seal is supposed to be held folded, pinched between the lip and the wall, with the edge of the seal being outside the drum. The seal isn't supposed to jut into the inside of the drum. Use your fingers and some other tool to push the rear felt drum seal out of the inside of the drum. If you use a screwdriver, be careful that you don't cut, rip, or otherwise damage the felt seal.

Do the same with the front felt drum seal.

Carefully inspect the felt seals. You don't want any portion of the seal somehow working its way back into the inside of the drum. Then verify again that the rubber seal that goes between the blower housing and the vent is in place and properly sealing. Now tighten the screws.

Connect the wires to the door switch on the shroud, then loosely screw the shroud in place. Screw the shroud to the vent. Once all the screws are in place, tighten all the screws.

Lower the top of the dryer into position.

Hook a bracket into one side of the lid, position the bracket over the front shroud, then screw in place.

Repeat with the other bracket.

Place the front panel onto the bottom clips. Seat the panel onto the clips all the way, then rock the panel forward into place.

Install the plastic door stops.

Insert the door hinges into their slots, push the door down to seat into place, then install the screws that hold the hinges in place.

Plug the dryer in, turn on the gas, test.