LDE7800ACW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Took it apart according to the videos, replaced about all moving parts (almost). Put it back together and still made noise. It turned out to be the blower wheel. Ordered a new blower wheel and installed it. Works great and has mostly all new parts. The website was great!!

I followed the videos on your website, but had to clean 30 years of dust and lint out in the process. Cleaning took the longest time.

Removed the frong cover and and internal sheild, removed and replaced thermostatic, wiring as original.
I had searched several other sites first for thee part, but none of them seemed accurate. Your photo matched the old exactly, giving me the confidence I wanted before ordering.

The repair was very simple.I removed the door and the front cover.Right in front of the blower housing sat the temperature control thermistor.All that was needed to do the swap was a nut driver.Everything I read said the high limit thermostat may of been bad but it was fine.Ordering the parts was easy and fast all I needed was the model number and all the charts and numbers were easy to find.Thank you Parts select..

I opened the back acess panel and started the dryer. Looking at the motor and idler pulleys it was obvious by the frequency of the squealing noise that it was coming from the idler pulley.
I pulled the retainer clip and tension spring from the idler pulley and removed it. I applied some grease to the shaft and reinstalled the idler pulley.
The squeal was gone confirming that the pulley bushing was dry. I ordered the new idler pulley and when it arrived the next day I cleaned the grease off of the shaft and installed the new idler pulley. Problem solved.

I pulled out the old filter, the screen of which had ripped, and put in the new one...It took a few seconds! Mainly I was delighted that from the online photo guide I had chosed correctly!

Glad your site exists! It prolongs the life of older but functional equipment.

Insure the double pole breaker in the breaker box is functioning properly.

1. Removed two screws from front panel.
2. Removed panel.
3. Removed four bolts off tumbler face.
4. Removed face.
5. Removed drum and belt.
6. Vacuumed.
7. Replaced idler spring assembly.
8. Replaced drum.
9. Replaced belt.
10. Rotated drum to make sure belt was properly seated.
11. Replaced tumbler face.
12. Replaced front panel.

first i removed the screws holding back cover. Then I remeved nut from tumbler roller shaft. Then I slid shaft from roller .I removed roller then replaced with new one. Installed new shaft then replaced back cover. recieved parts from parts direct very promptly & they were the right parts the first time thanks very much

Door switch was very easy to replace as it simply snaps in for the outside and you just clip on the two control wires that already have clips on them.

used a utility knife to open the box in which the part was shipped, discarded the old filter and inserted the new one

1)Unplug dryer, 2)remove front door assembly, 3)remove the blower tumbler front, 4)disconnect belt, 5)eased out tumbler, 6) replace parts, 7)assembled in reverse order, 8) finally test operative. Wife rewarded me with peanut butter an jelly sandwich.

All you need for a Maytag is a snub nose Philips screw driver. The screws on the front panel are at the bottom angled down, so a regular length Phillip's won't work. Just unscrew the 2 screws, then lift the panel up and out. Careful not to pull out too far, there are 2 wires attached to the switch. The replacement switch is NOT an exact copy of the old one. My Maytag is over 30 years old and it only had 2 prongs on the switch. The new one has 3. Don't let that throw you. It is the same size. Just attach, 1 wire to the bronze connector & the other to the silver. Push the switch into the door opening, re-attach the door. Total time 20 minutes. Saved well over $100 in a service call. Anyone with an IQ above freezing can do it.

Front panel came off with two philips head screws.
First thermostat was behind a 2 screw sheet metal barrier.
Second was far right and slightly cramped, but a right angle
rachet drive and phillips head bit did the trick.
The wire colors were an exact match to the OEM thermostats.
So far the dryer is running shorter, and there is almost no water in the vent tube or the face of the dryer door opening. A cheap fix for an old reliable dryer.
Whle you're in the guts, always vacuum out all the lint and dust on all parts. Stupid to leave it dirty and run less efficient.

First we ordered the multi temperature gas thermostat ( listed as the solution 83% of the time) and the coil kit( 16 %) and replaced those parts as suggested. But that did not work. then we ordered the timer, replaced it in 20 min( 1 wire at a time as suggested) and that fixed the dryer. Thank you.