MDE14PRAZW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Followed instruction video

take screws out of front of dryer, pull front off to expose drum and replace baffle

my son did the installation according to your excellent video instructions

Removed Dryer Door and front face of dryer, total of 4 screws, turn dryer drum to position broken baffle screws, remove screws, install new baffle, attach front face of dryer and reattach dryer door. Time 15-30 min. total. Real easy. Thank You PartSelect. Maytag told me my part was no longer available, but I fold it at PartSelect.com.

Removed front panel and tumbler, replaced roller axle,
wheel, and front glides. Anybody can do this.

Thanks to reports from others, I concluded that most likely the gas ignition coils (one or both) were no longer functioning properly. I replaced both with the 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit which is about 1/2 the price of either coil individually -- yes,true,go figure! The actual replacement took only about 10 minutes. What was most difficult and took the most time was the removal of the front panel of the cabinet -- this was difficult only because there were no instructions in my owner's manual (or any other source I could find) and it took me awhile to figure it out. Now I could do the whole job in about 20 minutes! The detailed instructions from others as to the process of replacing the coils was invaluable -- I don't know if I would have been able to figure that out on my own. But most important was the information that enabled me to diagnose the problem in the first place. Thank you, all you previous comment contributors.

I followed the Part Select tutorial on Instant Repairman and retrieved the missing screws at the base of the dryer as described in the tutorial and after trying to reassemble the original baffle notice the baffle screw holes were stripped. I decided to fill the holes with a strong glue before reinserting the screw to temporarily keep the machine running until the new baffle arrived as it was just ordered the night before. When the new baffle arrived I decided to hold onto it as a spare if or when the original baffle broke off again.

Checked out the coil seemed ok. So I replaced the radiant flame sensor. No change. Then I replaced the High limit sensor still the heat was not staying on. I read some were in the troubleshooting guide that the coil can test good, but can still malfunction. So that was it new coil fix it, works like a new Dryer again.

I watched your YouTube video. Access to the interior of the dryer and replacing parts was EASY. Unlike the machines in the videos ACCESS is VERY EASY as only one panel needs to be removed. Access is from the FRONT PANEL and secured by two top clips and two front bottom screws. Just unscrew and swing the bottom up at about a 45 degree angle; the panel comes off and can be placed to the side. I first replaced a thermostat and a coil kit but still no heat. I then ordered a new FLAT STYLE IGNITER ( which I discovered was broken off ) and a RADIANT FLAME SENSOR and these parts FIXED THE PROBLEM. Parts cost about $90 (Dec. 2016) including shipping.

By watching a video I disassembled the front and took the dryer tub out and replace the two rollers and it took about 60 minute.

I removed the front of the dryer and the drum support plate. I drilled out the old rivets and installed the Glides with the enclose rivets. The Glides came loose in a few days! The holes in the glides are larger than in the old Glides. I disassembled the dryer again and reassembled with my rivets. This time I held the rivet gun inside the perimeter of the dryer so that the head of the rivet is opposite the initial installation. So far, so good, except the dryer still squeaks. The idler pulley is now the culprit. White grease burned up. I reassembled with high temperature grease. If that does not work, I will need another idler pulley. The journal looks very worn. the dryer is 30+ years old.

Unplug dryer. Removed the screws on the right hand hinge, lift and remove the door, remove the screws in the left-hand side, slide top of front cover out and lift off of metal tabs and set aside. Used a small Shop-Vac to clear any dust or lint from the appliance housing. Un-clipped quick disconnect connectors from the igniter, flame sensor and coils. Loosened but did not remove screw holding igniter slid igniter coil off following slot in igniter coil. Unscrewed top bracket screw to flame sensor, slid other end out of tab in slot, bracket must be slightly bent to remove old and insert new. Unscrewed top brackets to coil. Warning assembly screws were installed extremely tight had to break them free using small vice grips so phillips heads would not strip, enough clearance to gain purchase on the sides of the screws head with small vice grips. Place new coils into slots and screwed brace back into place. slid new igniter coil onto the existing screw, inserted metal tab into assembly for heat sensor, new part came with replacement bracket. tightened all screws. reconnected quick connectors to all 3 parts. reversed process of cover disassembly to reassemble and reinstall door. plugged dryer back in. fix successful consistent heat restored.

Accessed the front of the dryer cab by removing 4 screws (2 cover, 2 hinge) which also allowed the door to be removed. The front panel pivots at the bottom, towards the front. Changed the igniter first (loosen 1 screw, slide old unit out, slide new unit in, retighten screw, transfer electrical connector) though the unit looked OK, then changed the gas valve solenoid coil packs (disconnect electrical plugs, remove coil bracket (2 screws), swap new coils for old, and reassemble). Vacuumed up loose dirt and reinstalled front panel and door. Also removed, cleaned, shortened, and reinstalled the dryer flex duct as a maintenance item. Dryer works perfectly again!

Removed four screws from the door hinges and front panel. Removed the front panel by pulling forward from the top and found two screws. The part does not come with screws which are #10 x 1 and 1/4" long hex head sheet metal screws. I believe that the screw size is critical as the part may break loose again if the screws width is too large or small for the predrilled holes in the baffle. One set of holes in the drum had slotted screw holes which would allow for installing the baffle with the screws partially installed in the baffle. I would recommend washers for that installation. Check all three baffles to ensure that all screws are tight.

There are several parts that will cause the dryer to squeak, drum roller, idler pully and the drum slides. To start, remove the door and the two opposite screws. Pull the front cover down and remove, no screws to remove, this is a snaped on piece. Next, remove the two screws holding the dryer top bracket and lift the top. Take drum support by removing the screws and then remove the belt from the motor and remove the drum. The hardest part was removing the C clips from the roller axle even with the snap ring pliers. Replace the drum rollers and reverse the process to re-assemble. Of course, the rollers weren't the problem even though they were worn out from 20 years of service. I ended up replacing the idler pully and and the idler pully support arm. If I had all of the parts prior to starting, the total time would have been about an hour. I did watch several YouTube videos before attempting the repair. That helped me understand the "how" and made it easy once I started the repair.