MDE14PRAZW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Shut off gas removed gas valve. Removed the coil retainer and installed the new coils. Reinstalled valve and checked. Found dryer worked fine.

1. Remove 2 screws that hold door hinges on.
2. Remove 2 screws on opposite side of door hinge and remove 2 plastic clips.
3. There are 2 hex screws that hold the front panel on. Remove these and the panel is held on by a flex clip. Gently twist the top towards the outside of the dryer and they will come free.
4. tilt panel forward and lift of 2 clips at the bottom.
5. Remove the screws under the cover panel which will release the drum holder and lint collector.
6. Lift top of dryer and lift out drum.
TAKE THE TIME SINCE THE UNIT IS OPEN TO VACUUM OUT THE ENTIRE DRYER. CLEAN OUT THE EXAUST TO IMPROVE EFFICIENCY AND SAFETY.
7. I replaced the rear felt by using a flat head screwdriver to lift tabs and install felt. Using the screwdrive I compressed the tabs to hold the felt.
8. The baffle was installed inside the drum and using 2 hex bolts to hold the baffle in. I added 2 washers since the hole was inlarged due to the baffle becoming loose and pulling through the metal drum.
9. Re-install the drum and push rear felt to the outside of the drum.
10. The front drum needs to be installed. Push the felt to the outside of the drum and check the rear felt to ensure it is still on the outsid of the drum. Install 4 hex screws to secure front drum holder.
11. Insatall lint catch unit with 4 additional hex screws.
12. Verify the lint collection panel lins up with the exhaust fan at the base. When units line up tighten all 8 hex screws.
13. Reinstall front cover panel by inserting panel on bottom clips and tilt up to the dryer. The top corners are gently twisted to the outside of the dryer to reattach to the spring clips. Use 2 hex screws to attach panel.
14. Re-attach plastic clips and 2 screws on side opposite of door hinges.
15. Re-attach door hinges with 2 screws. Cleck to ensure the door closes.
16. Check dryer operation.

Tilted dryer back to access the two screws on the front panel, remove front panel, by raising it up 90° and pull the wires off for the door switch, first I remove the one 5/16 self tapping screw That holds the burner assembly onto the bracket, removed the hot surface igniter screw from old burner assembly, attached to new burner assembly, reinstalled burner assembly and also cleaned orifice from gas valve, also while the front cover was off I remove the fan housing cover and vacuumed out all The lint attached to the fan assembly, unit works great again.

Took off door, then removed front of dryer to access the internal controls. Project went pretty darn well

Sensor is in the front lower left. Gas off, electicity off. Removed two screws for the filter, pry/lifted the top up and taped it too the overhead cabinet, removed two screws inside top of front panel, lifted pandel with door closed staight off. Two screws to remove the flame sensor braket. unplug the old sensor install the new one and reverse everything. With others suggestions I purchased temperature switches etc. but the radiant flame sensor was the problem. I now have some spare switches for future. Excellent company and very quick service. Oh, Sears wanted 200.00 just for the service call, I live rural.

Thank you very much for your prompt service. This was so cool... On Monday night my wife told me the dryer was not heating. I did a basic diagnosis, checked the internet for parts and lowest price and found your site. I ordered the part I thought I may need and 2 days later the part arrived and the dryer is working again.

Way to go, PartSelect!

I watched the video

A year or so ago I replaced one drum wheel. The dryer worked fine for months until it started sqeaking again. When I removed the wheels again the shaft was no longer round but half moon shaped. this allowed the drum to drop lower than it's supposed to. consequently the drum ate through the back drum support. I replaced the back drum support and the roller shafts, in addition to two new rollers. It works great now. The more difficult part of the repair was replacing the rear drum support. It is screwed in from the back and requires two people. Everything else I did by myself. The lesson: If you replace the rollers, be sure the roller shafts are not worn. An asymetric shaft eventually causes more parts to wear out.

It was very simple. I removed the fromt cover on the dryer. The heating element was easy to get to and after removing all the attached wires and 4 nuts. The new element was installed, reattached the wire correctly and put the screws back in place. It was extremely easy to complete.

Ohmed coils and both had continuity so I changed radiant heat sensor. No bench test for Radiant Heat sensor. Same problem. Changed both coils and dryer works fine. Weak coils were my problem. I read thru the same issues in Parts Select forum and it said Radiant Heat sensor was problem 25% of the time. With coils having continuity and no ohm value specified for coils I made wrong choice but, I have spare parts and look for another 10 years of life in the dryer. Nice to have this forum to research appliance repair. Very helpful for parts location and installation. Dishwasher is next!

loosened two screws on back of top,lifted top away from front panel.it just lifts off front corners,removed two screws at top corners.lift front panel up and out,this panel supports dryer tub,remove slowly,unplug door switch parts are located left side bottom two screws holding in had to have wife hold drum up to put front panel on

After taking one last look through the access port prior to ripping the back off the dryer in order to access the heat exchanger fuse, I noticed I had inadvertantly un-plugged the gas solenoid. I reapplied the plugs to the solenoid and, voila, I had flame.

I am thankful to know I have a source in case I encounter other appliance problems, though. This one was a no-brainer but the next one might be more difficult. Thank you.

I followed the advice posted by other customers. I took the front off the dryer, put the door back in place and ran a cycle. I could see that the igniter was heating properly, but no gas was flowing. Based on what I read I concluded that it was a problem with one of the gas valve coils. It was relatively inexpensive to replace both (and the dry is 10 years old), so I didn't go to the trouble of determining the bad one. I replaced them both. Obviously I unplugged the dryer (no need to turn off gas). There were 2 screws that held the bracket in place which holds the coils. I disconnected the coils, removed the bracket screws, replaced the coils, reattached the bracket screws and reconnected the coils. I then reattached the front plate to the dryer. It was very easy and took about 20 minutes and I had never worked on a dryer before.

Using the pictoral parts diagrams on the PartSelect website, it was a logical process to disassemble the dryer to change the drum drive belt. This was a great opportunity to clean lint from the motor and air passages and inspect all components. Cleaned the belt track, the roller drum wheels and felt seals. Unit now runs like new. BTW - very fast shipping on the replacement belt and it was the right part the first time!

Followed your video; replaced felt seal on front of drum, (torn in two or three places), and replaced both front guide kits,which were ground to the metal, causing the black dust, ( metal shavings). Thanks for the help, Buck. The drum support rollers were OK.