MDE8600AYW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

The support rollers were fried, literally. I'm honestly surprised they held on. Let's just say that the "roller" part wasn't even attached to the support wheel... That bad. Because there wasn't much support there is a small tear in the metal on the back drum. The felt seal for the drum had basically been worn down to pieces. So I order two drum support rollers, two roller shafts, a new drum felt seal, and a new rib belt.

After the repair, no more squeaking, literally a huge difference, and because of there's plenty of support now for the drum, there isn't any clothes being torn. If it weren't for the videos and the parts, we would of spent hundreds of dollars on a new dryer. Instead we spent just over $100 and now our dryer is quiet and operating better than when we got it.

I simply went on line and ordered the part. I had it shipped to my office since I am here all day, M-F. I received the part in 2 days. I took it home, pulled out the old lint filter and slid in the new one. It is amazing how much more efficient my dryer is. The old lint filter had about a 6 inch tear in it so it was not catching all the lint.

Removed lower front cover of dryer, located coils, removed old coils by disconnecting the wires and removing the hold down bracket screws. Pulled the old coils out replaced them with the new coils by aligning the index pins on the coils with the holes in the bracket then reattached the bracket and plugged the wires into the new coils. Then closed the cover on the front of the dryer. Dryer now ignites and stays on to heat up and dry clothes.

I inserted the clip

Old latch and door striker were pried out with a flat blade screwdriver. New components popped right in. Repair was less than two minutes.

I had an issue where I was not getting any power to my ignitor. After replacing the ignitor with a fresh one, the problem persisted. Next, I went hunting all the fuses and therrmostats for continuity. All seemed fine. So finally I decided to jump the flame sensor which is located on the outside of the flame tube. WHALLA! It ignited the glow plug. So with one 1/4"" nut driver I removed the single bolt from the unit, then I used a pliers to remove the two wires from the old unit. I replaced the sensor with Tue new unit and all was well. It took less than 5 min once I diagnosed the problem.

Shut off gas removed gas valve. Removed the coil retainer and installed the new coils. Reinstalled valve and checked. Found dryer worked fine.

My dryer stopped producing heat and everything else was working fine. I did some research on this site and others had the similar problem pointing to the ignitor going bad. I needed to determine which ignitor fit my dryer. What I learned is that some of the parts come with a series number and you need to know which one matches your serial number. My serial number started with 40 and I had a choice of buying the part for a series 10 or 60 series. In my case I needed to buy the 10 series since you either go with the same number as your serial number or lower, never higher. When the part came in I removed the dryer door by removing the 2 screws. I then removed the 2 screws on the opposite side of the door. Once the 4 screws were removed I was able to take the front cover off. The ignitor was on the right side and easy to get to. I unplugged the ignitor and used my socket set to remove the bolt. Once removed I vacuumed the lint in the dryer and installed the new ignitor carefully not touching the black area of the part. I put the front cover back on, put the door in place and put all 4 screws back in place. I started the dryer and it was fixed! This was an easy job to repair that saved me money.

Remove back panel n u can see the sensor and easy to replace thanks to the print out i was provided love this website

1. Remove 2 screws that hold door hinges on.
2. Remove 2 screws on opposite side of door hinge and remove 2 plastic clips.
3. There are 2 hex screws that hold the front panel on. Remove these and the panel is held on by a flex clip. Gently twist the top towards the outside of the dryer and they will come free.
4. tilt panel forward and lift of 2 clips at the bottom.
5. Remove the screws under the cover panel which will release the drum holder and lint collector.
6. Lift top of dryer and lift out drum.
TAKE THE TIME SINCE THE UNIT IS OPEN TO VACUUM OUT THE ENTIRE DRYER. CLEAN OUT THE EXAUST TO IMPROVE EFFICIENCY AND SAFETY.
7. I replaced the rear felt by using a flat head screwdriver to lift tabs and install felt. Using the screwdrive I compressed the tabs to hold the felt.
8. The baffle was installed inside the drum and using 2 hex bolts to hold the baffle in. I added 2 washers since the hole was inlarged due to the baffle becoming loose and pulling through the metal drum.
9. Re-install the drum and push rear felt to the outside of the drum.
10. The front drum needs to be installed. Push the felt to the outside of the drum and check the rear felt to ensure it is still on the outsid of the drum. Install 4 hex screws to secure front drum holder.
11. Insatall lint catch unit with 4 additional hex screws.
12. Verify the lint collection panel lins up with the exhaust fan at the base. When units line up tighten all 8 hex screws.
13. Reinstall front cover panel by inserting panel on bottom clips and tilt up to the dryer. The top corners are gently twisted to the outside of the dryer to reattach to the spring clips. Use 2 hex screws to attach panel.
14. Re-attach plastic clips and 2 screws on side opposite of door hinges.
15. Re-attach door hinges with 2 screws. Cleck to ensure the door closes.
16. Check dryer operation.

Used PartSelect videos to first diagnose the problem which was worn drum felt seal. Then, used the same videos to replace parts, both needed and convenient to replace b/c of already have access.

While the videos were very helpful, first timers should be aware that there are significant knowledge gaps between a professional's easy repair vs an amateur attempting the same.

Okay, first of all, just let me say, if I can do this, ANYONE can. I am not very handy when it comes to things like this. I watched online videos and they will walk you through everything. I am so pleased with the results. Quiet as can be now. Before, we would have to shut the door when it was on because the scretching was so loud! The parts on this site were far more affordable than at my local repair store and they all came right to my doorstep. Overall it took me about 45 minutes and three beers :) Good luck!

Removed front cover, removed old heating unit, installed new thermostat,heating coil inside the dryer and finally replaced the fuse in the front. The main complication was reaching the screws for the heating coil, not really complex.

First- unplug the dryer!!
Remove the metal plate behind the control panel .
Note the colors of what wire went where on the old temperature control, and carefully pull them off of it.
Snap out old control and snap in a new part- (snapping in the new part took a bit of effort).
Replace the wires just as they had been originally connected.
Voila!

Took off door, then removed front of dryer to access the internal controls. Project went pretty darn well