YE20JA1C Magic Chef Dryer - Instructions

I watched video provided on appliance repair. I followed the steps and exchanged out old parts for new and now my dryer works like a new dryer. thank you appliance repair for fast shipping.

Pry the front of the top up - it's held on with barbed fasteners that just snap out. Underneath the hood against the back panel is the heating coil assembly. On top of it is the thermostat, hanging from the side of it is the thermal fuse. I removed the heating elements (coiled wires held in frame) to make access to the other parts easier.
Pretty much plug-n-play. One nut driver takes off everything, you might need a needle-nosed pliers to push the lugs onto the contacts of the replacement parts (they fit VERY snugly).

Also, remove the front panel and clean out the lint in the air duct - lint collecting there is apparently what drives up the temp causing the fuse to blow in the first place.

Followed instructions for testing, starting with door switch, then push to start switch, then thermal fuse. Thermal fuse was bad. Replaced thermal fuse. Back in business.

The repair was much easier than anticipated. Next time I could do it in less than 30 minuites.

Replaced the axel that holds the rollers as well as the rollers. Just rotate the left one 90 degrees and it slides out.

Probably what took the most time was puting the belt back on. It is old so I was being careful. It took a couple of trys to keep it on the rollers as I moved the drum into position. So easy I am convinced to buy another Maytag.

Wife was impressed so that's worth something!

First I opened the top of the dryer, then removed the bracket holding the high limit thermostat. Then I removed the heating element to gain access to the thermal fuse. Installation was the reverse. I also cleaned out the lint trap on the front of the dryer and also checked the vent duct (it is cleaned every year). Very easy repair.

Disconnected power....lifted the top of the dryer to gain access to parts requiring replacement... Unsrcewed two screws 1/4 inch nutdriver....disconnected the two wires...connected the wires to the new part and attached screws...Removed 1 screw from heat element and raised element to get to heat sensor...sensor pops out removed wires and popped new sensor in...replaced wires closed top lid reconnected power source and started dryer

I ordered the part. This is now my third order. It appears that every 10-12 months this happens. I opened the top of the dryer by using a flat head screw driver to push in two clips. The clips are along the front edge of the lid about two inches in from each side. Push in with the screw driver while pulling up the lid. Once the lid is open (of course the plug is pulled) I locate the heat coil. Above the heat coil is the the thermostat, I replace that. Or maybe it is the over heat fuse, I forget. I then replace the sensor found along the side of the heat coil. Re-attach wires. Close lid. Plug back in and ready to go.

First let me say that the video provided was wonderful, I followed the instructions on the video, & it worked great, no problems at all. Saved me from paying huge costs from a repairman.

Disassembled the dryer with the help of diagrams provided on the web site. With the aid of an electrical diagram discovered inside the dryer, tested each component with a multimeter until I found the open hi-temp limit switch. Ordered the High Limit Kit because I couldn't find the hi-temp switch separately. After receiving the repair parts I read the enclosed instructions and learned that I needed the additional part enclosed with the hi-temp limit switch after all. Thanks to some forethought by the supplier, I didn't have to wait for the other part to be shipped.

Just as described in the installation video provided by Partselect. I replaced the Thermal Fuse and the High Limit Thermostat. The most time was spent replacing the fuse due to it's location.

After removing the control panel face plate, the lid, the front panel, and the drum, I had to trouble shoot the wiring to determine the dead spot. I found it to be the thermal fuse for the heating element. I then unplugged the wires to the fuse, removed the fuse from the fuse bracket, and then replaced evrything in reverse order.

Unfortunately, due to a catalogue glitch, the part delivered was the wrong size. However, Donald of customer service took the time to run down the correct part, and that is enroute to me now. Donald, thank you so much for your help!

Unplugged dryer.
Popped the lid using a butter knife by pushing in the two latches (located about 4 inches in from the side in the seam where the top lid and front panel meet).
Used pliers to remove the electrical leads to the two fuses (two leads each fuse).
Unscrewed the top fuse from the mounting bracket, then removed the heating coil, then unscrewed the lower/bottom fuse from its mounting bracket. Tested each fuse with my trusty (and rarely used) volt/ohm meter -- which verified that I had bad fuses.
Replaced the bottom/lower fuse, re-attached to the mounting bracket, reconnected the electrical leads.
Replaced the heating coil.
Replaced the top fuse in its mounting bracket and reconnected the electrical leads.
Closed the lid. Plugged in the dryer. Works like a charm.
NOTE: I checked more than 50 feet of exhaust duct to make certain there were no clogs (which is what caused the problem). I discovered that my conduit (that tube-like thing that connects the exhaust from the dryer to the exhaust port in the wall or floor) was kinked and created a clog. I trimmed it and now it works and I have improved drying performance.

After reading some tips on the parts select site I isolated the high limit fuse and thermostat as the likely problem. The overheating was caused by a buildup of lint in the exhaust fan area. after clearing the obstruction, and replacing the fuse and switch I tested the dryer which worked perfectly.

first pryed up the dryer top, pulled the two wires for the door switch and removed front panel. remove 8 or 10 blower housing cover 1/4" screws. removed blower moter shaft snap ring pulled out damaged blower wheel. slid on the new wheel with the flats on the shaft and new wheel alighned up. installed blower clamp around blower stub. installed motor shaft snap ring. reinstalled blower cover cover. installed front dryer cover to include installing door switch wiring. put down top and pushed dryer back into place making sure to install the blower vent hose. started dryer to test operation. all worked well the first time.