11071252012 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

very smooth with your video instruction help

Unplug from electricity, turn off gas valve, raise top, remove front. Take drum out of cabinet, unhook gas line from burner assy. unhook electric wires, marking them for re installation. Remove, and replace burner tube. Reinstall burner assy attach wires and gas line. (Check for leaks) Reassemble drum to cabinet, rethread belt thru tensioner, reinstall front, let top back down on unit.

After watching the U Tube video to replace flywheel, I had a appliance repairman come to my home to install flywheel. There was no way I would have been able to put the dryer back together without some help.
I want to say "Thank You" to the sales representative who assisted me when purchasing my items, she was very patient while running around the house looking for the model number of the dryer.

After diagnosing the fuse associated with this part as being the problem and ordering it from Sears I came across this web site and compared prices. I found the repair stories and discovered that Whirlpool which is the manufacturer for Kenmore, recommends replacing the thermostat along with the fuse as the thermostat is the likely cause for blowing the fuse. I ordered the thermostat from PartSelect and had it the next day while Sears was like 5 days. If I need repair parts in the future I'll order from PartSelect.

Our dryer suddenly stopped heating up, and subsequently would not dry any clothes! The timer would run down to 0, but the dryer would continue to tumble until we manually stopped it. After finding the partselect.com site and checking the 'Parts that Fix' page for our dryer model, I followed the excellent video walkthrough, removed and tested the Thermal Fuse which, sure enough, was bad. I ordered a new fuse and it was delivered two days later (standard shipping). Placing the new Thermal Fuse was simple and I had the dryer running again very quickly, and while it would now stop at the end of the cycle, it was not fully heating up and drying still. I ordered the Cycling Thermostat (next most likely cause, according to the site) and again two days later had it in hand, replaced, and the dryer works perfectly! In the end, our problem was both a bad Thermal Fuse and faulty Cycling Thermostat. The PartSelect site was a perfect tool to not only find the part, but recommend which was most likely to solve the problem, show diagrams of the part locations, and give an excellent video walkthrough of replacing the parts. I highly recommend this site!

Prelude to this was 2 years ago we had the same problem, called Sears and $200 later we had a new $16 dollar part, the repair guy was kind enough to tell me what he did, and I saved the fuse he replaced. So when it happened again this summer, I went through a couple of sites (obviously including this one) to find parts, started with the fuse he had replaced, which was not the problem this time, went on to the next likely, and on through about 5 key elements (all under $20) until I found the coils on the burner assembly were the problem. All in all the repairs were pretty simple, and once I figured out how to dismantle the cabinet safely. I am VERY happy with the timely replacement parts (shipped very quickly) and when your dryer isn't working-things pile up pretty quickly. The dryer is working like a charm again. Thanks! -Mike

This was so easy with the Partselect video. I removed the back of the dryer (9 screws) with a pair of pliers. Took a picture of the cycling thermostat with a digital camara, just in case I mixed up the wires. I removed 4 wires and two screws, screwed in the new cycling thermostat and reattached the wires. NOTE: wires can be pretty tight, a pair of needle nose pliers would have helped.

Unfortunately, my wife did not mention that the dryer was not getting hot, only that the timer did not advance. I hopped back online, ordered the heating element and the thermal fuse, debated about paying for a next day delivery and decided against it. I placed the order on a Thursday night at 10:00 p.m. It shipped Friday and arrived on Saturday evening. I was not expecting it until Wednesday!!

The Dryer is working like new, my wife thinks that I'm a genious and I'm just happy I did not have to help lug clothes to the laundromat Sunday!!!
LT

Replaced 2 thermostats, flame sensor, gas vale and solenoids. After each part was replaced, I started the dryer to see if the replaced part solved the problem. It did not, or so it seemed. Now, and this is important evidently: all the time I ran the tests post part replacement, the dryer was without the tumbler or any front end ducting in place. Out of frustration and a tickle of intuition, I reassembled the dryer, ran the test, and intuition proved itself as the dryer is working properly. My conclusion: You cannot run an accurate test result without the tumbler and ducting in place. I don't know why, but this seems to be necessary. new gas valve gave the dryer a much healthier flame.

Lifted top of dryer using putty knife. Took front panel off using socket wrench. Slipped drum belt off an took drum out. Vacuumed out entire interior. Replaced rollers an clips and reassembled!! Saved $100!!! Thank you!!

Had to completely dismantle the dryer including the motor and grind off the.bolt holding the fan blade on. I did not realize it was threaded on with a left hand thread.Then reassembled.

I thought it had to be the igniter so I replaced that part. The dryer still did not start. I replaced the high limit and hoorah dryer works. Two weeks go by, the dryer is drying the clothes but my wife smells gas in the laundry room. I replaced the coil pak on the gas valve. My wife says she still smells gas. I replaced the radiant flame sensor and no gas smell for 2 weeks now.

Completly gutted every part of the machine, to put in the drum support rollers. Really wasn't that difficult. But you will need 2 people. One needs to hold the drum while one replaces the drum roller.

Remove screws from dryer vent. lift top up: use screw driver to pry up and release top panel its uses a simple catch. Remove wires from door switch. Lift up and remove front panel from clips on side of drier body. IMPORTANT: two people required - Drum will fall if not supported when front panel is removed. Get down in front of machine: one peron holds drum in place an you push up on belt tensioner. Release belt from drive wheel. Remove drum and set aside. Pry off support clip from front of broken support roller. Clean roller shaft (replace if broken). Place new roller on shaft. Replace support clip. Have second person hold drum in place while you re install drive belt (see above). Replace front panel. Re attach wires to door switch. push top panel down (firmly to lock). replace drier screws.
good luck

Top up, front off. Drew a picture of how the belt was positioned. Removed the belt and drum. Removed a heat plate to access the lower wheel. Replaced it and then replaced the upper right wheel. Was a little concerned the white triangular washers would break going on to the shafts but it turned out there much stronger that I thought. Cleaned out the bottom and found a lot of coins. Put it back together and now it sounds like a new dryer. Use gloves, some parts inside are very sharp.

Take out the two screws the hold the lint screen filter compartment in place. Remove the two top clip retaining screws, and lift the top LOOSE and turn it a bit out of the way. I didn't find it necessary to remove the top. Unclip the two wire electrical connector at the top - front, and remove the 1/4 " screws the secure the front. Lift the front up and out of the way. Slide the drum belt off the tensioner and moter pulley and slide the drum out the front. Remove and install the rollers ( and its just that quick) and while your in there. Clean up a bit ... cant hurt right? Especially on and around the motor. Reverse the procedure but rotate the drum a few turns to properly position the belt. Total E.T. is maybe 20 minutes and on a 1 - 10 scale for "degree of difficulty ". This is about a 2. Save the money and do it yourself.