11071252012 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

lifted top section of dryer
removed front dryer panel
removed drum belt and tensioner
removed both drum rollers
cleaned both roller axles
installed new rollers
reassembled remainder of dryer
if you are at all mechanically inclined, it is a simple job

Replaced roller. Very simple. Dryer is the easiest appliance to repair. Only a few parts keep a dryer working

unplugged power, slide unit away from wall, removed bottom front cover, rear sheetmetal cover, tilted front of unit to remove roller outboard support (sheetmetal screw from bottom of dryer). Removed shaft bolt from rear of dryer which released roller assembly. Remove speed nut from old roller assembly to remove outboard support arm, mounted new roller to new shaft placed triangle clips (one each side of roller), mounted outboard support to front of new shaft and completed re-assembly (reverse order of disaasembly).

I first tried replacing the Radiant Flame Sensor, which was located in a tight space and was very difficult to access. I finally gave up and called a handyman to replace it. That didn't fix my problem. I needed a new igniter. That was easy to replace, but it's fragile and I broke the first one...

1. Popped off hinged dryer lid at front and supported to allow access to lint chute
2. Removed back sheet metal panel
3. Removed dryer chute to expose sensor; removed same-deformed terminal on top needs to be straightened with pliers to remove through slot.
4. Installed new sensor; terminal needs to be twisted to ensure solid installation and good ground. Bottom pops in but took a bit of finagling.

Accessing and replacing the sensor was straightforward enough; bulk of the job was cleaning off old gasket material (severely degraded) in two locations. Used plastic scraper and razor blade scraper, then cleaned sticky with goo gone. Installed new gasket strip from Home Depot; available in rolls. I used 1/4" x 3/8". Surprising how much lint/hair/debris was in bottom of lint chute. Glad to get it all clean.

Disassembled dryer, removed tumbler, replaced drum support rollers

The hardest part was figuring out how to access the dryer mechanism. This Amana dryer has a lower front panel that is removed and not the top. There are few instructions available for this configuration. Then the part locations do not resemble the video instructions for trouble shooting. I discovered the broken part because when fiddling with the wire connections the metal tab disconnected due to fatigue or corrosion. Removing, identifying and replacing the flame sensor was quite simple. The dryer now works as before. The dryer is 23 years old. The most time in this repair was spent figuring out how to disassemble and identify a different configuration than in the videos.

After identfying that the problem was due to a damaged drum support roller, I decided to replace the bad roller instead of replacing the dyer itself.

The first thing was to remove the front cover
and the front panels to expose the drum. (Only a few screws hold them in place.) Next, the drum was removed by first releasing the belt from the motor pulley and tensioner, and then pulling the drum straight out.

At this point the two rollers would be exposed. The triangular plastic retaining locks were removed by slightly prying them off. The old rollers were then removed and replaced.

Before putting everything back, this was a good time to vacuum all the accumulated lint inside, especially the lint that had accumulated around the motor assembly and the fire box.

(A pleasant surprise: I found a lot of coins inside the unit, enough to recoup half of what I spent for the new rollers.)

The repair video provided for this model 110.97584810 gave erroneous info. It says to remove the back vent cover. The back on this model is not removable. I wasted an hour trying to remove back and top of dryer before discovering that the bottom front panel below the door pops off. Then the cover of the blower must be removed by removing two screws. The thermostat part can then be accessed and replaced as shown in the video. You'll need a 1/4" rachet to remove the screws as there isn't space to use a nut driver. Note that the statement in the video "This repair is done all from the back" is completely wrong. It is done entirely from the front. It can be done without even moving the dryer.

Replaced thermostat on back of dryer, very easy to do, took about 15 minutes after watching video . doe's not require rocket scientist to do.

Removed the back panel of the dryer. Thermostat is located in the out going air flow near the exhaust. Removed one screw that held thermostat. Exchanged wires and put everything back together

I started by changing the part that had the highest percentage to solve this problem , the top three didn't work , the fourth part, the disposable thermostat, and the last one that could be done from the front worked.

removed door and front panel this exposed all the control devices I changed out the thermostat ndn repaired the dryer

I ordered the part(and a backup) and had it in two days. 5 days less than ordering from sears.

Read this site and saw many fixed the problem with a new thermostat. Ordered one and it was simple to replace. Just removed the back panel of the dryer and the thermostat is right there. Two screws to remove it, swap the four wiring plugs onto the new one, reinstall it. Unfortunately that didn't fix it so went back online and ordered the coil kit, another common solution. Removed front of dryer by removing the two screws the hold the lint trap onto the top and the two hinge plate screws on back of dryer to tilt the top up ward and backward. Removed two mounting screws on inside of dryer front and slip front panel upward to remove. The coils are right in the front down at the bottom left of dryer.Used an offset screwdriver to remove the two screws holding them in place. They slide right out, one has two prongs, one has three. Replace them with the new coils and put them back in place. Reassembled and everything works now. Grand total of eight screws removed and replaced, pretty simple. I'd recommend buying two or three parts if you see several parts as possibilities for a repair. Easier than doing it the dummy way like I did!