11071252012 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

unplugged power, slide unit away from wall, removed bottom front cover, rear sheetmetal cover, tilted front of unit to remove roller outboard support (sheetmetal screw from bottom of dryer). Removed shaft bolt from rear of dryer which released roller assembly. Remove speed nut from old roller assembly to remove outboard support arm, mounted new roller to new shaft placed triangle clips (one each side of roller), mounted outboard support to front of new shaft and completed re-assembly (reverse order of disaasembly).

lifted top section of dryer
removed front dryer panel
removed drum belt and tensioner
removed both drum rollers
cleaned both roller axles
installed new rollers
reassembled remainder of dryer
if you are at all mechanically inclined, it is a simple job

Replaced roller. Very simple. Dryer is the easiest appliance to repair. Only a few parts keep a dryer working

Disassembled dryer, removed tumbler, replaced drum support rollers

I first tried replacing the Radiant Flame Sensor, which was located in a tight space and was very difficult to access. I finally gave up and called a handyman to replace it. That didn't fix my problem. I needed a new igniter. That was easy to replace, but it's fragile and I broke the first one...

The hardest part was figuring out how to access the dryer mechanism. This Amana dryer has a lower front panel that is removed and not the top. There are few instructions available for this configuration. Then the part locations do not resemble the video instructions for trouble shooting. I discovered the broken part because when fiddling with the wire connections the metal tab disconnected due to fatigue or corrosion. Removing, identifying and replacing the flame sensor was quite simple. The dryer now works as before. The dryer is 23 years old. The most time in this repair was spent figuring out how to disassemble and identify a different configuration than in the videos.

The repair video provided for this model 110.97584810 gave erroneous info. It says to remove the back vent cover. The back on this model is not removable. I wasted an hour trying to remove back and top of dryer before discovering that the bottom front panel below the door pops off. Then the cover of the blower must be removed by removing two screws. The thermostat part can then be accessed and replaced as shown in the video. You'll need a 1/4" rachet to remove the screws as there isn't space to use a nut driver. Note that the statement in the video "This repair is done all from the back" is completely wrong. It is done entirely from the front. It can be done without even moving the dryer.

Used the video to remove the top and front. Removed the drum. Removed the spindle through the whole next to the spindle. Vacuumed a ton of lint in the dryer and vent pipe. Reassembled in reverse order. Easy repair and a good time to clean the lint.

I ordered the part(and a backup) and had it in two days. 5 days less than ordering from sears.

Removed the drum then removed the old parts and installed the new ones. Dryer now runs very quite and heats good. You have very fast service my mother ordered the parts on the net one day and I received the parts next day and did the repair that night and dried clothes. Thanks,

Your great service is very hard to find.

removed door and front panel this exposed all the control devices I changed out the thermostat ndn repaired the dryer

Read this site and saw many fixed the problem with a new thermostat. Ordered one and it was simple to replace. Just removed the back panel of the dryer and the thermostat is right there. Two screws to remove it, swap the four wiring plugs onto the new one, reinstall it. Unfortunately that didn't fix it so went back online and ordered the coil kit, another common solution. Removed front of dryer by removing the two screws the hold the lint trap onto the top and the two hinge plate screws on back of dryer to tilt the top up ward and backward. Removed two mounting screws on inside of dryer front and slip front panel upward to remove. The coils are right in the front down at the bottom left of dryer.Used an offset screwdriver to remove the two screws holding them in place. They slide right out, one has two prongs, one has three. Replace them with the new coils and put them back in place. Reassembled and everything works now. Grand total of eight screws removed and replaced, pretty simple. I'd recommend buying two or three parts if you see several parts as possibilities for a repair. Easier than doing it the dummy way like I did!

The dryer was igniting when initially starting load, but didn't light again the rest of the cycle. On my model the access was through the front panel, didn't even have to pull dryer out. Open the door and there are two screws on each side.of the inside of frame. Remove screws and lift door off the the whole front of the pulls out and down and removes, and everything is right there to work on. Replaced thermostat, that took 5 min. But didn't fix the problem. So I purchased and replaced the "M" Series New Style Coil Kit, took about 10 min. I took olm/continuity readings b/t all terminals of the old and new coils and they were only about 5% difference, the old being a little lower. But that fixed the problem, works like new again.

Replaced thermostat on back of dryer, very easy to do, took about 15 minutes after watching video . doe's not require rocket scientist to do.

Removed the back panel of the dryer. Thermostat is located in the out going air flow near the exhaust. Removed one screw that held thermostat. Exchanged wires and put everything back together