1107192311 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Watched the videos available. Opened the top and saw tub jumping. Unplugged and removed front panel. Saw tub rollers were broken or melted. Removed tub watched more videos, and installed the felt belt I got from PartsSelect. Trouble removing the tub rollers, but finally got them off. The axles had a sticky residue which I removed with 220 grit sandpaper. I installed new rollers I had bought locally. Reassembled dryer. Worked quietly and smoothly, and it no longer shut itself down. Worked well for one day when it started.s loud noise with bumping. I found both rollers had lost their outer rim , and the tub was running on hard plastic and there was sticky residue back on the ankles. I stopped there.

Tested the two thermostats, thermal fuse and the hi limit cut off for conductivity. The hi limit tested open. The others tested closed. Replaced the hi limit. Cleaned lint from the lint duct assembly after removing the two hex head screws that hold the assembly to the blower housing. The lint was packed in there solid. Cleaned up all around. Reassembled everything. Looks and works like brand new. Access was completely from the front panel. CAUTION: The rear panel is spot welded on although it has eight or nine hex head screws also, and when you remove them, the holes don't line up for replacing them. Took a lot of head scratching and time to get things lined up so the screws would go back in again. Don't try to remove the rear panel like the video shows.

Disassembled dryer, removed tumbler, replaced drum support rollers

I use the manentance kit that was not the problem. I end buying the drive motor and that was it. I was happy with the service I got from part select, overnight mail what more could I ask for? I am also glad I replace everthing with mainentance kit. Thank you for your help john degnan

Replaced roller. Very simple. Dryer is the easiest appliance to repair. Only a few parts keep a dryer working

After removing the exhaust pipe and clamp, I unscrewed the back panel with a 1/4 inch drive socket set. That exposed the wires and the wiring skematic. I used a multimeter to track the power to the element and found that no power was reaching the element. I then unplogged the unit removing all power and tested the resistance on each thermal fuse. The lower fuse had no resistance and the upper fuse did. I then disconnected the upper fuse, used a jumper wire the connect both wires together to bi-passed the fuse. I reconnected the power and turned on the dryer. The dryer element worked, confirming my suspicions of the bad fuse. Once I ordered the fuse and only paid for regular delivery I had the fuse with 24 hours and dryer back together within very little time. It took me more time to clean up the lint dust then it did to fix the problem.

I followed disassembly directions found on youtube and replaced th two-piece ring bearing that was identified by a parts diagra fron PartSelect. The repair was easy. Fix time was about thirty mionutes.

lifted top section of dryer
removed front dryer panel
removed drum belt and tensioner
removed both drum rollers
cleaned both roller axles
installed new rollers
reassembled remainder of dryer
if you are at all mechanically inclined, it is a simple job

Took the two screws holding the lint trap to top. Used a putty knife to loose the clips holding the top of the dryer up so it could be hindged up for access. Used a nut driver to remove the four screws hold the front door on. Removed the lower dust panel, just clips holding in on. Pull the dryer drum out along with the broken belt and old belt tensioner. Took shop vac and cleaned lint and removed about $2.00 of loose change from the base. Installed the new drum supper wheels. Held belt around drum to put back in. Looped the belt through tensioner and around motor drive pulley as shown in instructions. Put front door on only to find the felt around the door had slipped making the drum hard to turn. Pulled the door back off and laid the dryer on it's back before putting the door back on , so you can run your hand around the door to make sure the felt go inside the drum. Put the four screws back in the door panel before uprighting the dryer. Sucess the drum turned freely. Put other remaining panel and srews in lint trap . Hook the dryer back up to vent, power and gas, and turned on the dryer. Runs like new!

unplugged power, slide unit away from wall, removed bottom front cover, rear sheetmetal cover, tilted front of unit to remove roller outboard support (sheetmetal screw from bottom of dryer). Removed shaft bolt from rear of dryer which released roller assembly. Remove speed nut from old roller assembly to remove outboard support arm, mounted new roller to new shaft placed triangle clips (one each side of roller), mounted outboard support to front of new shaft and completed re-assembly (reverse order of disaasembly).

Followed the included instructions in the Maintenance kit. Very easy to understand & follow. Only advice is to have an extra set of hands to assist in re-installing drum w/ the new belt. Entire disassembly & reassembly could be done w/ basic hand tools but went alot quicker using a cordless drill w/ a set of nut/screw driver bits.

I ordered the part(and a backup) and had it in two days. 5 days less than ordering from sears.

i took a stab that it was the thermostat,but it wasn't.after finding out it was the coils i purchased them and lifted the top of the dryer and undid two screws in the upper front of the dryer and lifted the front off all while holding the tub in place.The coils are located in the very front left of the dryer,i took the holder bracket off,disconnected the wires and replaced the coils(they just sit on a rod)dryer works like new and thanks to the new thermostat also gets hotter,i'm guessing that was next.

Attributed excessive noise to age of dryer, upon closer inspection, a dish towel had become caught at rear of drum because the drum support rollers were damaged causing the drum to create a space in the rear of the drum. This was large enough for the dish towel to be caught. Originally I thought that the thermal fuse had blown the circuit-which should occur in an overheating situation-however the loose drum had worn through the electrical wire leading to the door switch because it was not properly seated on the rear drum rollers. the wire was repaired with a wire nut, rear drum rollers were installed and it is working again. thank you for the extremely fast shipping

removed door and front panel this exposed all the control devices I changed out the thermostat ndn repaired the dryer