MUE15MNAGW International Dryer - Instructions

We could not find directions for the brand that we have. First we took the back off, which we did not need to do.
lift the top of the dryer, remove the front remove drum. Place belt on front of motor, wrap double belt around support on bottom of dryer, open the remaining belt and stretch around drum. Hold drum in place, replace front and top.
Need at least 2 people, not at all intuitive.

We inherited this dryer three years ago upon purchasing our current house. At that time I found this website to purchase and install a couple of the baffles that were missing. This time, I checked the troubleshooting for my current problem and ordered all of the parts I felt I needed to resolve the problem. Once I received the parts, I followed the great how-to videos by Steve to disassemble the front of the dryer and remove the drum. I could not get to the repairs right away since the interior of the dryer was quite dirty and I took a lot of time to clean it out. Once I got to removing and replacing the drum rollers, idler pulley, rear drum felt shaft, and drum belt, everything went smoothly and was just as easy as Steve described in the videos. If I didn't have such a dirty machine interior, removing the old parts and installing the new parts would have taken less than an hour. I had to hold off on installing the front glide kit and front drum felt seal since I forgot to order two of each (I'll install these at a later date. I proceeded to putting everything back together and testing the dryer. The dryer now runs quietly and works great.

replaced

Unscrewed door and front panel. Pulled and took the, off. Used standing flashlight to illuminate the area underneath the dryer barrel. Tried various tools to take out broken plastic remnants. Then, used small electric nutdriver to screw the tall baffle into place with newly purchased metal screws. Was a bit hard to reach and tight but finally worked once I found an appropriate tool and top.

Remove the door and the plastic brackets on the other side of the door opening. Remove the front cover by gentally pulling from the top first. Support the dryer basket (I used an old towel and a block of wood. With a 1/2 inch wrench remove the Roller Shaft with the Drum Support still attached. Replace new shaft and drum support. (always replace both at the same time or you will find that the problem will come back much sooner.) Careful when installing. Make sure that the new non metalic washers (suppied) are propery seated when you are tightening down the nut.

Others have described how to remove 4 screws and remove the front panel of the dryer. The problem I saw is that some screws broke off and fell inside while others remained on the separated baffle. The old screws that I found were 1 1/4 inch. The parts manual indicates a replacement screw that is 1 inch long and a number 10 width. One set of holes for the baffles has slotted holes. It appears that wear in the paint indicates movement before breaking off. My solution to the slotted holes was to use washers on the screws and to tighten the screws in the position where any force was not going to move the screws to the center position of the slots. The force of the separation caused the slotted holes to expand.

The video was excellent and made for an easy repair. Would highly recommend.

First removed front door 2 screws holding it to frame, then removed 2 screws holding front cover panel on tilt out front panel, used vac to clean inside, removed idler arm with pully attached, replaced with new parts when I did a test run still had a llitle squeek, the drum support wheel on right looking from front making some squeeking,I went back in removed part shaft had small rust spot cleaned with jewelers cloth lubed and wiped off, no more squeek I wish I had ordered new drum wheel when I ordered idler parts, then I could have done a complete overhaul now I know more I have never worked on a dryer before the drawings on the web site heleped a lot

Removed front of dryer, removed inner cover, slid roller belt off of drum to remove drum. Only tricky part was the two clip rings. My pliers had .070 tips and the ring holes were smaller so I had to run to HD to buy a pair with various size tips, ended up using the .047 tips. Only one wheel was squeaking when I rotated them by hand, but I had ordered both as recommended here so I replaced them both. Put everything back together feeling the belt to make sure it was not twisted and rolled smoothly when I rotated the drum by hand. Works great now. Lots of thanks to this site and all the posters who share their info!

I watched a video on YouTube for the disassembly of the dryer. The parts replacement took less than 20 minutes; the rest of the time was spent on disassembly and reassembly.

I followed the YouTube video for pulling the heating element to remove and place the thermostat. The actual thermostat removal and replacement was pretty simple. Most of my time was spent removing the front panel, pulling and reinstalling the heating element.

followed instructions on youtube. The only hitch was threading drive belt back on. the video showed from back instead of front.After I was done I noticed an access door in back that would have helped.

I use U Tube watched Video, you have to take apart the dryer, but pretty simple to do. The drum rollers were very easy to install, make sure to have snap ring plyers, installing belt was easy too, make sure to put it back on it the way it came off, mine was ribbed side down on drum. Take a picture if necessary. Getting the belt on the pulley right is the most important part, the rest is just reassembling,

As the dryer would be going you could hear a grinding noise every other sec or so, like sandpaper sanding metal.

Disassemble as per video on this site and install replacement felt seal.

Took a bit to tear down and change and reassemble but well worth the time as there is
no one in our area that does this type of repair(s) any longer

If you have the option to take a part the dryer before ordering the parts to track down the squeaking part, do so. In my case a squeaking part is still usable. Unfortunately the squeaking part was not the rollers or the belt depicted as a high percentage of the squeaking problems as noted on the webpage.My was the Idler Pulley. INSTALLATION of idler pulley, I started by watching the youtube videos, took pictures during the removal of the parts to assist in the installation. removed front panels parts, moved drum forward off the rollers, reached in and pulled the idler pulley to the left in order to remove belt. pulled the drum out. And with a flat head screw driver popped off the e clip (bought extra e clip just in case i lost it) reinstalled everything, BUT take note of the Idler pulley, it has one side bigger than the other BUT in the CLOSE UP VIDEO THE GENTLEMAN INSTALLS IT BACKWARDS. Not sure if this has a major effect on the pulley, but wanted to give it a heads up (your pictures will help you with this to keep track of how it should look at the end).