MHE15MNAZW International Dryer - Instructions

This is the dryer of a 28 year old Maytag laundry pair. I had replaced the glide kit 8-10 years before. Did them again because they were worn in half again but this time I added the 2 roller kits and the belt, really just guessing. I was surprised how full of dust and lint the inside was, especially the blower fan blades. I ordered the screw because the belt idler pulley assembly was very wobbly and I hoped that was the screw anchoring it to the motor housing was the problem but it wasn't. Turns out the threaded hole in the housing was stripped, due I guess to years of vibration. It was too tight to get a tap and dye in there so I drilled the hole out and replaced the screw with a bolt and nut and lock washer. Before drilling it out I tried a few strands of wire and JB Weld, like the trick with stripped wood holes where you break off toothpicks in the hole and fill with wood glue. But that stripped out too so I drilled and used the bolt. Turned out I didn't need that $7 screw. Probably should have known comparing it to the old one which looked the same after I cleaned it. Anyway, it sounds fine again.

I took out the old worn out part and replaced with the one I order.

I removed the dryer door and attaching hardware to other covers. Raise the top cover and prop it up. Remove the drum retaining cover and disconnect the door switch wires, making note of their locations. Release tension on idler and take belt off of motor. Pull the drum out with belt still around it. Vacuum lint and dust from inside cabinet. Use snapring pliers and remove the snaprings on the drum rollers. Remove the old rollers and washers, clean the shafts and apply a light film of oil on the shafts. Install new rollers and plastic washers on shafts and secure with snaprings. Remove the "E" clip from the idler shaft and remove the old roller. Clean and lube the shaft and install the new idler and clip. Place the new belt on the drum with the ribs against the drum. Put the drum in place and install the front drum retainer. Position the belt around the motor pully and tensioner. Rotate the drum to get the belt to track. Attach the remaining covers.

Remove the door and the plastic brackets on the other side of the door opening. Remove the front cover by gentally pulling from the top first. Support the dryer basket (I used an old towel and a block of wood. With a 1/2 inch wrench remove the Roller Shaft with the Drum Support still attached. Replace new shaft and drum support. (always replace both at the same time or you will find that the problem will come back much sooner.) Careful when installing. Make sure that the new non metalic washers (suppied) are propery seated when you are tightening down the nut.

discovered it was a broken latch. Ordered the latch, only took 2 days to arrive and all I had to do was remove the broken latch and snap in the new one. I saved myself a service call. I'm very happy!!!!!!

After watching the great install video, I followed his lead and within 20 min had my dryer door fixed. This dryer was bought in 1986 and I really thought I was looking at buying a new dryer. How wonderful that I could fix it for less than $11. Easy to find web site, easy to find part, great instructions and fast delivery!

Save the money and buy the part with partselect. My dryer problem was obvious. Before I purchased the part I jumped on YOUtube to see if there was a repair video that matched my problem. FRIELINK5 had a very thorough video. This guy did it with one hand and overall it looked easy. Then I ordered the part. When it arrived I gathered all of the tools first. Rewatched the youtube video, then installed the part. I recommend going through parts select problem determination if you do not know what is wrong. Follow the instructions and purchase the part. I saved probably over $125. House call 50$ + Labor and part $100 from a service call. TRY IT save money.

Removed power and front panel, removed broken latch, pushed in new latch and replaced the front panel and power. Done

We could not find directions for the brand that we have. First we took the back off, which we did not need to do.
lift the top of the dryer, remove the front remove drum. Place belt on front of motor, wrap double belt around support on bottom of dryer, open the remaining belt and stretch around drum. Hold drum in place, replace front and top.
Need at least 2 people, not at all intuitive.

First removed front door 2 screws holding it to frame, then removed 2 screws holding front cover panel on tilt out front panel, used vac to clean inside, removed idler arm with pully attached, replaced with new parts when I did a test run still had a llitle squeek, the drum support wheel on right looking from front making some squeeking,I went back in removed part shaft had small rust spot cleaned with jewelers cloth lubed and wiped off, no more squeek I wish I had ordered new drum wheel when I ordered idler parts, then I could have done a complete overhaul now I know more I have never worked on a dryer before the drawings on the web site heleped a lot

Others have described how to remove 4 screws and remove the front panel of the dryer. The problem I saw is that some screws broke off and fell inside while others remained on the separated baffle. The old screws that I found were 1 1/4 inch. The parts manual indicates a replacement screw that is 1 inch long and a number 10 width. One set of holes for the baffles has slotted holes. It appears that wear in the paint indicates movement before breaking off. My solution to the slotted holes was to use washers on the screws and to tighten the screws in the position where any force was not going to move the screws to the center position of the slots. The force of the separation caused the slotted holes to expand.

With the parts in hand, and after disconneting power and shutting off gas line, I again removed the door, front panel and front tumbler frame to expose the blower wheel. I discovered that the blower wheel was not damaged, but that compressed pieces of lint and other items where stuck to the wheel. I removed the pieces and vacuumed the the whole thing clean, tested it, and the sound stopped. Since I had the unit open, I replaced the front glides by drilling out the old rivets, removing the old glides and then riveting the new glides in place. A very simple procedure overall.

Make sure you keep track of where the different screws go and keep them inside something so you don't lose them. I also used my cell phone to photograph various areas and screws for later reference.

I removed and replaced all the problem pieces, and now she runs better then when I got her!

first, i removed two screws at the bottom of front panel. then lifted from the bottom removing it. next, removed drum surround and drum. next , removed right roller and roller shaft. then installed new shaft, slide roller back on shaft. next reinstalled drum, drum surround and front panel. Now so quiet you can hardly hear it run, also my sister says it drys much faster.

removed front door, removed front panels, lifted top back, unhooked belt, removed drum and belt, removed blower housing front, removed squirrel cage, removed blower housing, unplugged motor, removed motor assembly , ..switched new motor to motor cradle ... reversed process.