MHE15MNAGW International Dryer - Instructions

Disassembled dryer and replaced drum support roller and shaft. That took care of the noise but I still replaced the belt and idler pulley while I had it apart.

I looked at this website and found the symptoms, noisy, and no heat or not enough heat. I ordered the recommended parts. They were the drum support roller kit, idler pulley wheel and bearing, high limit thermostat, and lastly the front glide kit. I had anticipated having to use all of these parts. Upon following the instructions in the videos (couldn't ask for better instructions) I disassembled the dryer to see how bad everything was before replacing the parts. The left drum support roller spun easily, but had a little roughness and slight noise, the right one spun easily but not like I thought a new one would have spun, the idler pulley was stiff and very noisy. The thermostats all seemed to be in good shape (had continuity). I cleaned the bearings and shafts of all of the rollers with alcohol, paper towels and cotton swabs. The bearings and shafts all looked like new, so I lubed them with a slight amount of high temperature grease and reassembled the rollers. They moved smoothly and quietly. The fan was quite full of lint, even cleaning the filter after every load does not stop all of the lint. It has been in use probably over 10 years. After everything was back together, it runs like a well oiled sewing machine and has been drying well. I did return the parts unopened. This would not have been so successful without the videos. Thanks to all of you.

Went smoothly. Took the opportunity to vacuum out entire cabinet. Also removed tumbler vanes inside dryer as coins had made their way into them. The only other suggestion I have is that I didn't notice cabinet screws were different lengths till I started reassembly. Might be smart to label and separate them

On my maytag dryer I took the door off with two screws, took the front panel off with four srcews, lifted the top panel up a little bit and removed the belt from the "tub" and pulled the tub out. I could easily then access the idler arm and pulley wheel. Due to the age of the dryer, I also replaced the tub belt while it was apart. Reversed the process to put it back together, alot easier than I thought.

Warner

first i removed the screws holding back cover. Then I remeved nut from tumbler roller shaft. Then I slid shaft from roller .I removed roller then replaced with new one. Installed new shaft then replaced back cover. recieved parts from parts direct very promptly & they were the right parts the first time thanks very much

At first I thought I could just replace the pulley, but on closer inspection I found that the pulley had become seized on the shaft. I ended up removing the entire bracket (which I should have purchased also) and cutting the shaft off. I manufactured a new shaft from a bolt of the appropriate size and tack welded it to the bracket. It took a little more time than I anticipated. My advice to anyone doing this would be to spend a little extra money and buy the entire bracket and pulley. That would make this about a 15 minute job.

Took out old inner door panel, replaced it with the new. Had to take out 6 screws, remove old panel, put in new panel and replaced the screws..............pretty easy.

Following the instructions I pulled off the door and front panel. After rotating drum so the broken baffle was at the bottom I used a socket to remove the two screws on either end. I removed the broken baffle and inserted the new baffle in its place. Reinserted the screws, front panel, and door. I do strongly suggest having the manual handy to view the steps. It's available in PDF format.

Tools required: Stubby socket wrench, 5/16" socket, 1/2" socket, 1/4" socket, #3 Phillips screwdriver, external circlip pliers, straight slip joint pliers. A decently strong electric screwdriver is highly recommended - Milwaukee 2401-20 M12 cordless 1/4" Hex Screwdriver, for example.

Unplug the dryer. Turn off the gas supply.

Remove the screws holding the door hinges to the dryer.

Remove the door and hinges from the dryer by pulling the door and hinges up, then out.

Remove the two plastic thingies (door stops), opposite of where the hinges were, from the front panel of the dryer. Each plastic piece is held in place by two screws.

Grasp the front panel by its top edge, pull it toward you, then lift the panel up and off the clips at the bottom.

There are a couple metal brackets holding the top of the dryer down to the front shroud (the doorway) and frame, one on either side. Each bracket is held in place by two screws. Remove the screws, remove the brackets, then rock the top panel up and back, like the hood of a car.

Remove the screws holding the shroud to the frame. Look carefully. There are two screws that look like they hold the shroud to the frame, but actually do not. Don't remove these screws yet.

Remove the screws holding the plastic duct / lint screen slot to the shroud. These are very long.

Disconnect the wires from the door switch.

Remove the shroud.

Remember the two screws I referenced previously, stating they shouldn't yet be removed? Now's the time to remove them. Do so, then set the panel aside, being careful not to damage any wires. Don't lose the rubber gasket sitting around the circular portion of the duct.

There's a metal cover over the blower wheel. This cover is held in place by a bunch of screws. Remove them all, then remove the cover.

Remove the circlip going around the blower shaft, in front of the blower wheel.

Remove the clamp from around the blower wheel and shaft.

Pull the blower wheel off the shaft.

Install the new blower wheel.

Reinstall the clamp around the blower wheel and shaft.

Reinstall the circlip.

Reinstall the metal blower cover.

Make sure the rear of the drum is resting on the wheels.

Now things become a little difficult, because you have to fight the drum a little bit. Put the panel containing the moisture sensor, front drum seal, and duct into position. (Be careful not to mess up the drum glides. Make sure the rubber seal at the bottom of the vent is in place, sealing the vent to the blower.) Screw the panel into place with two screws, but don't fully tighten yet.

There's a felt seal that is supposed to go between the rear lip of the drum and the rear inside wall. The seal is supposed to be held folded, pinched between the lip and the wall, with the edge of the seal being outside the drum. The seal isn't supposed to jut into the inside of the drum. Use your fingers and some other tool to push the rear felt drum seal out of the inside of the drum. If you use a screwdriver, be careful that you don't cut, rip, or otherwise damage the felt seal.

Do the same with the front felt drum seal.

Carefully inspect the felt seals. You don't want any portion of the seal somehow working its way back into the inside of the drum. Then verify again that the rubber seal that goes between the blower housing and the vent is in place and properly sealing. Now tighten the screws.

Connect the wires to the door switch on the shroud, then loosely screw the shroud in place. Screw the shroud to the vent. Once all the screws are in place, tighten all the screws.

Lower the top of the dryer into position.

Hook a bracket into one side of the lid, position the bracket over the front shroud, then screw in place.

Repeat with the other bracket.

Place the front panel onto the bottom clips. Seat the panel onto the clips all the way, then rock the panel forward into place.

Install the plastic door stops.

Insert the door hinges into their slots, push the door down to seat into place, then install the screws that hold the hinges in place.

Plug the dryer in, turn on the gas, test.

I removed the control panel and front panel, then the brace holding in the drum. Then the drum came out easily.

Replacing the rollers is easy, use circlip pliers to remove the old circlips, replace the rollers, and reinstall the circlips.

After removing the idler pulley by removing one bolt and the spring, I replaced the idler roller, again with the circlip pliers. Then the idler arm bolts back to the motor mount, and the spring is replaced.

Reinstalling is easy - place the drum, have someone support it while you install the drum brace, then replace the front panel, then the control panel.

I had replaced belt, but the noise continued. Ordered new rollers and washer. Removed the front panel by tipping the dryer back against the wall and removing two screws at the bottom of the panel. Tipping the dryer makes it easy to remove the front panel. Removed the front drum support by removing four (4) screws. I was then able to just move the drum enough to have access to the rollers. Didn't even have to remove the belt. Replaced the rollers. Needed special pliers to remove and replace the retaining rings. Put the drum back into position and mounted the front drum support. Tightened four screws and then put the front panel back on. Plugged it in and tested it. Problem solved. Took about 35 minutes. Thanks

I was able to quickly make this repair with the help of some instructions that I found on this site on how to remove the front panel of my dryer. 4 screws on the front around the door (and removal of the door) and then it was simply a matter of rolling the top portion out to pop it out of some clips and then the front panel opened toward me and I was able to lift it off of the metal fingers that secure it on the bottom. Removing the old baffle was a matter of removing two screws with a nutdriver and installation of the new baffle was a breeze. All in all I was done start to finish in under 10 minutes.

Piece of cake. Use the available manual to ascertain dismantling procedure. Only thing that might be tough for average DIY'er is the internal snap rings. Snap ring pliers are mandatory for quick easy repair.
Total time was probably about 15 minutes and this was the first time I had taken it apart. Quiet as a mouse now!
Very helpful site.

i removed the 2 screws holding the door hindges on. then i removed the 2 adjasent screws to remove the front door panel. i rotated the drum to aceses the screws holding the baffle and installed the baffle .

Replaced both rollers,shafts, bearings and snap rings.