DPSB513EB0WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Snaped the new handle back on...no tools needed,
just fit the plastic groves of the handle into the holes on the dryer door. Very simple!

Had a repairman tell me I needed a new controller for about $350 so I decided to do it myself...found the schematic and tested the termisters. One of them was much lower than the range so I ordered a part of the web (here)...The diagram shows the thermistor and the safety switch so I ordered the wrong part (out $40). Ordered the other part which turned out to be the thermister. Took two weeks to get through this..Sure enough it worked!

snap in snap out

Initially purchased just the plastic slides, but when I opened the dryer I found the top drum bearing was smashed and the plastic was basically gone in a whole section, so I then ended up ordering the bearing as well. If you hear the loud squeaking, just buy the top drum bearing and the 4 slides (two white and two dark green). It is an easy repair and the squeaking sound is gone.

took off top of dryer, took out 2 screws so front of dryer could be removed, replaced bearing,slides and felt seal

just 4 slots where the handle goes. Snapped handle into slots, good as new.

Replaced drum bearing part and white slides.The problem was that it was not the drum slide support. It appears to be the the drum rear bearing of whch I am now ordering. The bearing replacement is a little more difficult, but I have taken this on as a challenge

1) Disconnect power supply. 2) Open dryer door to find and remove two screws through dryer top. 3) Proceed to lift front dryer top panel and tap rear of dryer top with hand to left to disengage tabs and remove dryer top completely. 4) Remove two screws through front panel. 5) Gently lift dryer front panel from base tabs to partial remove panel (careful of wires which remain connected) - pivot front panel to left with wires connected. 6) lift dryer barrel with left hand / reach under barrel with right hand to release belt from tensioner pulley (very easy one-hand maneuver). pull dryer barrel belt off tensioner pulley towards you, remove belt from motor pulley below. 7) lift/pull and remove dryer barrel and belt (flex side panels). 8) take picture of wire connection locations on heating element and remove wires from tabs two locations / 3 wires. 9) remove sensors 3 locations. 10) remove heating element and housing. 11) install new heating element / housing and reverse process. .....tip; belt tensioner pulley was biggest challenge at first because it was hard to see how it all worked and reach. once i realized i could force / lift the barrel up to gain better access it was much easier than trying to fit my arm through the one large available hole at bottom right (when looking at the unit). the tensioner pulley is opposite side (left when facing) and you would have to reach over the exhaust, etc.

remove front and top cannover's from dryer.remove plastic inside bearing housing and plastic bearing slides replace worn out bearing slides with new ones. needed 4 bearings direction suggested only two....

After some research on the internet, I deduced the squeaking sound in our dryer was due to defective drum glides. I ordered a set of four of the white type, knowing only our model requires four glides, but not knowing there are two types for two locations. After disassembling the dryer I realized I needed more parts - two green slides and a new top bearing assembly. The dryer drum had eaten thru glides and into the plastic assembly. That was the reason for the squeaking noise - metal sliding against hard plastic. I ordered the additional parts directly from the manufacturer to ensure I got it right. After all the parts arrived, the repair was easy and took less than 30 minutes. I actually had my 17 year-old daughter do the work to teach her some skills. I just instructed her and stepped in on assembling the top that was just a bit tricky to put back on. Problem fixed.

TOO EASY to repair. WORKS GREAT>

Had to remove the drum to get at the heater element also had to swop the sensers to the new element

It was as easy as the repair film said it was . But after spending the money for the upper and lower baring seals I put it all back together and the motor started making a loud noise ? I took the drum and everything out and started the motor without the drum just the motor was running and the danged motor is going out now !I checked the price of a new motor its not to bad but with all of the parts I have put in this thing I could have paid part of what it would have cost for a new dryer ! I put it all back together and hope it last long enough to at least recoup some of what I have spent ,But the new parts work good !

I opened the unit by removing the two screws over the door, lifting the top (careful not to break the plastic tabs connecting it in the rear to the electronic control panel), then removing the two screws securing the front so I could slide the drum forward and out (hoisting by the belt, bending the sides out slightly). I tested the heating elements for continuity, and tested the two thermostats on the left and right of the heating element for continuity. I found the wiring diagram in the control panel with the specs for the thermistors, which said they should read about 100 kOhm at room temperature. The two on the heating element were OK, but the thermistor on the back of the plastic output box read only about 6 kOhm. After ordering and installing the replacement, it took about 15 minutes to put the drum back in, re-thread the belt, and close the unit back up (thanks to some helpful videos on YouTube). This was the second time this thermistor failed! The first time was under warranty.

Pulled broken one out and inserted new one in slots and popped in place.