GTMP280ED6WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

My dryer knob broke on the timer cycle switch so I ordered a new one along with a new dryer knob which didn't fix the problem, then I ordered the start switch and all I had to do was remove the back of the dryer where all the knobs are located and remove the start switch by turning the start switch to remove it, replace it with the new one by turning it till it clicks in just like when you removed it, put knob back on the front. However that didn't fix my dryer either so I ordered the thermal fuse and switched it out and that was what started the dryer back up. It is located on the back all the way to the bottom where the electrical cord is. Remove the cover and locate the fuse. Use a pair of pliers to pop it out and push the new one back in.

First I called to get help with the right part and they told me I needed the pus-to-start-switch. It came in and I called my handyman Ed to install it. I am happy with your service. I dont install but just got the part in.

as described, I used a thin screwdriver to wedge in and pull down existing, broken switch. I was able to pull it down about a 1/4 inch, but wasn't quit able to disegage it until I gripped it with pliers. I then pulled it out, unplugged the old switch, plugged in the new switch, and carefully tucked the wires back into the fridge and snapped the new switch into place.

10 minutes total.

The hose has a tapered end that fits in a tapered hole in the back of the washing machine.When insalled the first time,the joint leaked badly.My solution was to coat the hose end and the interior of the hole in the back of the washing machine with silicon sealant;let it set up for a few minutes and install the new hose.This solved the leak and the hose seems to be working fine now.

Tried to replace with home-store bought 6w light. Looked the same, fit into socket, but didn't work. Actually exploded when I turned it on! Be sure to use OEM part like this one. Worked perfectly!

I opened the back panel of the fridge and exposed the compressor. Unplugged existing run capacitor and installed new one with the addition of the sleeve that is stated must be installed around the run capacitor.
Everything I read and on this web site says that based on these symptoms, that the problem is the run capacitor. I searched and search for a part called a start relay which plugs in to the compressor. This run capacitor plugs in to this other part which I take as the start relay.

Installing this run capacitor did not solve the problem. The fridge compressor keeps cycling on and off. Freezer doesn't keep as cold as it should.

Opened the package and screwed in the new rinse aid fill cap. No problems. It fit and works just fine.

To quiet the noise temporarly I would spray silicone into the dryer drum groove on the front inside panel.Got tired of this and removed the top of the dryer by removing two screws under the front bottom of the dryer top. Remove two screws, one on each side of front panel(screws are on the inside). Lift the front panel straight up and swing to the side. Keep the wires connected to the panel. There is plenty of room to move panel about. Note: I replaced the drum bearing thinking it was a one piece unit with the teflon rub strips. All I had to do is order the teflon rub strips and I would have saved 24 dollars. Reverse the disassembly process to assemble.

First unplug dryer to prevent electrical shock. To remove the front of the dryer, open the door in top left and top right corners is a machine screw. They can be removed with a Phillips screw driver. Lift the top slightly and let front fall forward about 6 inches, lift slightly. Two wire will be connected to the switch in the door. remove the wires and squeeze the tabs on both sides of the switch and push it out. Push new switch in to replace old switch and reassemble.

Easy to replace, take off the front cover take off hoses unscrew and attach the new pump. Problem wasn't the pump. Now that I have a new pump, not sure what to do next.

Clips on the inside of the door handle had snapped off, 1 minute later it worked like new. NO TOOLS required! So happy my older appliances can have new life by the parts carried by PartSelect. Thanks!

I took the advice off of your website about the only thing that will fix
the problem is change the run capacitor. I felt assured that I would
have a working refrigerator freezer after making this change. I was
pretty disheartened when it didn`t solve anything. I was not going to
take the new part back out after the small challenge of putting it in.
The next day I found out how to test the old capacitor and it was still
good. I will just have to eat the $49. I did learn not to take advice from
a website even if it seems like a sure thing

Ordered new timer with overnight delivery and thought all was well. Replaced timer and still didn't work. Am embarrassed to admit all was wrong was that the timer knob was broken and spun around. But am typing this so someone else might check the knob first of all before going to all the trouble of replacing the timer. Although it was an easier job than I thought. About 15 minutes after I got the dryer pulled out. Oh well, have a new timer and knob now and got to clean out behind the washer and dryer which was needed and the dryer vent also. All is well now!

Unscrew the 2 screws holding the drain hose clip to the machine - use bucket to get an excess water - remove bad drain line - I installed a new drain hose clip as well - make sure you put the clip on at the same position as the previous hose - push house firmly into opening and screw into machine - pretty easy repair - and I'm a novice

Replaced with a new rinse aid fill cap.