GTMP280ED6WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

i follow your video and all went well except now the dryer will not heat. i went back on your site an tried the no heat option an still no heat

Originally I thought that the Start switch was the issue, and ordered one. After taking the machine apart and running some tests, the issue was clearly not this switch, but a different switch that cuts power when the belt tension is no longer being applied to the idler pulley spring. I fixed this by bypassing this switch, which in my opinion, is error prone and serves no purpose. The switch can be accessed by removing the control panel, then top cover, then front cover, then drum. The bogus switch is screwed to the bottom left, near the motor. The idler pulley spring rests against it. Just disconnect the switch wires, then clip, strip and crimp then together to bypass the switch, and voila! Now if the belt breaks or comes off the pulley, the motor will continue to run, but you wont hear the wet clothes flopping around, so that will be the indication that you have a belt problem. Hope that helps!

The repair did not go exactly the way it was described in the YouTube video, but basically it was similar. After unplugging the power cord, emptying the freezer, removing the shelves and the ice reservoir, I removed the ice maker assembly by unscrewing a Philips head screw and unplugging the power connector. The connector had little retaining tabs on each side that I pried open with a straight blade screwdriver. Then the ice maker lifted right out. Next I removed one screw holding the auger motor assembly, unplugged the power connector, and lifted out the assembly. This where things got difficult. After flailing around a bit, I removed the panel on the back wall of the freezer below the evaporator fan assembly, exposing the evaporator coil. I saw that the fan assembly was attached with two screws at the top and two screws at the bottom. The top screws were easily removed, but when I removed the bottom screws, which were situated in very tight quarters, I DROPPED BOTH SCREWS DOWN BEHIND THE EVAPORATOR COIL. Be prepared with a magnetic nutdriver so this doesn't happen to you. I could not retrieve the lost screws, but fortunately it appears that the top screws hold the assembly securely enough. The assembly was loose, but it was still attached by a power cord that I could not disconnect. I removed the tracks on the side walls for the ice bucket, and then I could maneuver the fan motor assembly just enough that I could reach over the top of it, grab and pull off the old fan blade, and slide the new fan blade onto the shaft. Reassembly was straightforward, replacing each part (except two lost screws) in reverse order to disassembly. After getting everything put back in and plugging in the power cord, I was amazed at how quiet it ran.

The old switch was hard to remove. Thinking that I may have to loosen the wires I used a socket wrench to remove a clamp. This was unnecessary. In the end the switch did come out using a large size screwdriver. The problem was that the expanding plastic tongue is not visible from the ouside so you have to try to feel your way around. If i had ordered the replacement before and not afterwards I would have seen this before hand.

After replacing the light bulb and still no light I manually pushed the light switch button. Intermittently the light would come on then go out. I removed the power plug from the power source then replaced the light switch. I plugged the refrigerator back in and now I open the door the light comes on and stays on until the door is closed.

Plumber had suggested trying a new gasket rather than replace the dishwasher. Ordered one and installed it. Cleaned door and installed gasket in about 30 minutes. So far it works great .... and ... cheaper than new dishwasher.

I was using vice grips to turn the control knob (stub) until the new knob arrived. The replacement knob was a redesigned type with a metal backing plate to place on the control knob stub (better than the original plastic knob) however the diameter of the new knob is only half the size of the original knob and the mark on the dial does not line up with the markings on the dryer control panel making it difficult to know what cycle you are using or how far to turn the dial within each cycle before passing to the next cycle.

Pulled off old knob and snapped new one into place. Took about 5 seconds. Must be a lame design cause my dryer's less than 2 years old and the knob snapped on the inside and wouldn't turn. Easy to fix though.

Simply screwed in new cap

Put on a new cap.

Put the drain hose clip on (it will take squeezing but the hose will pass through). There will be a groove that whose width spacing is similar to the clip. Once that's on, insert hose and screw in the clip.

First I removed the screws that held the drain hose clip to the washer. Then I pulled the hose, along with the clip, completely out of the washer. I then took the old hose out of the washer clip and put the new hose in the new clip; I pushed the hose into the washing maching and tightened the hose clip to the maching with the existing screws. Seriously easy, took less than 15 minutes. And I have virtually no handyman skills at all!

With screwdriver, I removed screws holding old hose in place. Attached new hose and screwed into place.

Unscrewed old one and installed the new one.

I ordered two switches, replaced both with a knife in 10 minutes. Interior light works, thanks.