GMMP280ED4WS General Electric Dryer - Instructions

I unscrewed the inside of the dishwasher door and clearly saw the old interlock switch. This dishwasher has two, but it was obvious that one switch worked and one didn't (one switched was permanently pressed in). I removed the old interlock switch. It was tricky to pull out and I felt like I was going to break it but after watching youtube videos, I was pretty sure you just have to pull hard. I easily put the new switch in, reattached the dishwasher door, and it works perfectly!

First unplug dryer to prevent electrical shock. To remove the front of the dryer, open the door in top left and top right corners is a machine screw. They can be removed with a Phillips screw driver. Lift the top slightly and let front fall forward about 6 inches, lift slightly. Two wire will be connected to the switch in the door. remove the wires and squeeze the tabs on both sides of the switch and push it out. Push new switch in to replace old switch and reassemble.

Clips on the inside of the door handle had snapped off, 1 minute later it worked like new. NO TOOLS required! So happy my older appliances can have new life by the parts carried by PartSelect. Thanks!

My husband broke the door handle, but of course, i had to be the one to order the part & fix it. I ordered the part on the weekend and much to my suprise it was on my doorstep on Tuesday when I got home from work. Then I saw the part was shipped from nearby Louisville. I was overly happy with partselect!!!!! All I did was open the packaging and clip the dryer handle into the 4 holes. Easy as pie!!!!

Removed panel to access the interlock switches. There were two. The button on one switch was fine and the button on the other would not depress. Ran a continuity test and it failed. The switch also had a burnt smell

Took the screws out of the back of the doorl located the switch and replaced it put screws back in and it was fixed

Nightmare!!! The Striker latch did not pop out with a screwdriver as it was supposed to. The whole dishwasher needs to be disconnected and pulled out, then front door removed and totally disassembled to remove the screw to replace the striker latch. lots of work to replace a striker latch. Bad design!

Ordered new timer with overnight delivery and thought all was well. Replaced timer and still didn't work. Am embarrassed to admit all was wrong was that the timer knob was broken and spun around. But am typing this so someone else might check the knob first of all before going to all the trouble of replacing the timer. Although it was an easier job than I thought. About 15 minutes after I got the dryer pulled out. Oh well, have a new timer and knob now and got to clean out behind the washer and dryer which was needed and the dryer vent also. All is well now!

Unplugged power.
Shut off water supply.
Remove the kick panel.
Unscrewed dishwasher from under cabinet and side screws. lower feet to reduce tension.
As you slide the dishwasher out, be sure all lines (Drain, water supply, electric are free to move with dishwasher.
I was able to hold the dishwasher at an angle to easily get to the valve. After removing the the valve, i screwed the new valve back into place. I removed the Line between the valve and Dishwasher. Putting the line on the new valve. I removed the water supply line from the old valve and installed it on the new valve.
Placed the dishwater back in place and screed it back in. I ran the cycles. everything works!
I replace the kickpaner a couple of hours later. Check to make sure there were now leaks.

My son did the repair, I ordered both latch and striker, only needed the latch...only took him a few minutes to remove the old and install the new and works just fine

Originally I thought that the Start switch was the issue, and ordered one. After taking the machine apart and running some tests, the issue was clearly not this switch, but a different switch that cuts power when the belt tension is no longer being applied to the idler pulley spring. I fixed this by bypassing this switch, which in my opinion, is error prone and serves no purpose. The switch can be accessed by removing the control panel, then top cover, then front cover, then drum. The bogus switch is screwed to the bottom left, near the motor. The idler pulley spring rests against it. Just disconnect the switch wires, then clip, strip and crimp then together to bypass the switch, and voila! Now if the belt breaks or comes off the pulley, the motor will continue to run, but you wont hear the wet clothes flopping around, so that will be the indication that you have a belt problem. Hope that helps!

1. Turned off circuit breaker
2. Pulled out dishwasher
3. Disconnected switch and popped out switch
3. Popped in new switch and connected
4. Pushed dishwasher back into place
5. Turned on circuit breaker
6. Turned on dishwasher and it worked

Repair was straightforward. You can change water inlet on this model from underneath in bottom from, although it is a little tight

I followed You-tube instructions, very clear but not easy.
The door had to be taken off the dishwasher and then disassembled into its two halves, front and back, in order to remove the old handle and install the new.

I had already replaced the four (4) small wear strips which were like short strips of teflon, and the squeaking decreased almost completly. I noticed that front side of the drum itself had started to wear through the actual plastc drum bearing, but I hoped having previously replaced these tefon strips that would be the overall fix.
Wrong again... after a few weeks the squeeking continued until I ordered the new drum bearing and replaced the worn one with the new one. I was able to re-use the previous teflon wer strips, and it's like new now at least the squeaks are gone,

The actual fix was a very simple remove old drum bearing, snap in new drum bearing install old teflon wear strips put four screws in top, and front panel and I was back in business