GMMP280ED4WS General Electric Dryer - Instructions

The repair, from the time that the bulb burned out until it was replaced took about six months. I could have shortened the time if I had ordered the bulb sooner. It was difficult because I had to listen to a fair amount of nagging, which, thankfully, has now ceased. I also had to actually go online and finI opened the dryer door, reached in with my right hand (which happened to be holding the new bulb) and screwed the new bulb in. Tip: Screw it in counter-clock wise. This was not mentioned in the instructions. Come to think of it, no instructions were provided. The company might wish to correct that oversight.

I first throwed the breaker then I took the old bulb out. Put new bulb in. Turned the breaker back on.
It worked great

Removed the broken handle from the dryer and popped on the new one.

There are 2 switches that should be pressed in when you move the handle to lock door, the switches usually go bad with time. Just take the six screws off on the inside of door, then remove screw on the underneath part of handle. The switches are located on the top part under a piece of 1 inch metal plate held in by a screw, remove that and you'll see the 2 switches, test the button on each one to see if it goes in and out, you'll hear the click to. Just unplug bottom first then the top if you need to replace the top one. Thats it.

Washer/dryer belongs to a friend. Originally, the problem was that the dryer wouldn’t heat, so I opened it up, and removed the drum thinking it might be the heating element. It wasn’t, and the ohm reading confirmed this. It turned out to be a burnt wire connector to the element ( unknown to me, and found out later, was that the start switch had remained continuously in the down position because the switch was pressed too far down and thus remained locked “on” in place under the surrounding cabinet frame. This, in my opinion, caused for a continual call for heat and thus burnt the wire.)

I replaced the burnt wire/connector and reassembled. Now the dryer would heat, but would only run if the start button was continually depressed. Let go of the button, and the dryer stopped.

Repair pros suggested a new start switch. I bought a new start switch along with a new interlock switch (it basically shuts off dryer if belt breaks because lack of a belt releases pressure on the pulley that keeps switch depressed.) Apparently they can go bad, too.

It turns out neither of these switches were bad. Instead, upon further inspection, after the first installation of the drum belt, the L-shaped bracket which holds the pulley for belt tension became dislocated from its correct position and was not allowing for the depression of the interlock switch, causing the dryer to “read” broken belt, and thus, not run.

I loosened the motor bracket to allow placing the bracket in the correct position. Reassembled and all was good.
PSA - almost every sheet metal edge is razor sharp.
In the process of returning parts. Now in the process of returning parts.

Shut off power at breaker, remove two screws anchoring DW to counter top . Slide DW out far enough to access door latch, disconnect electrical wiring plug, remove two Phillips head screws, install new door latch, repeat installation in reverse order.

My dryer knob broke on the timer cycle switch so I ordered a new one along with a new dryer knob which didn't fix the problem, then I ordered the start switch and all I had to do was remove the back of the dryer where all the knobs are located and remove the start switch by turning the start switch to remove it, replace it with the new one by turning it till it clicks in just like when you removed it, put knob back on the front. However that didn't fix my dryer either so I ordered the thermal fuse and switched it out and that was what started the dryer back up. It is located on the back all the way to the bottom where the electrical cord is. Remove the cover and locate the fuse. Use a pair of pliers to pop it out and push the new one back in.

When the part arrived, I was pretty sure it was the wrong part. The replacement part had an LED on it -- a box that stuck up about an inch above the circuit board. My dishwasher did not have an LED readout and I was pretty sure the LED would not fit in the space that was available. I was reluctant to take the dishwasher apart until I had the right part. The people at Part Select were helpful and together we looked at the schematic which did, indeed, seem to show a box sticking up from the circuit board. A YouTube video showed me how to take the door off its hinges, unscrew 4 screws and slide the inside of the door upwards. The circuit board went in fairly easily. There was space for the LED (even though it still doesn't show through the top) and now the lights work.

First I called to get help with the right part and they told me I needed the pus-to-start-switch. It came in and I called my handyman Ed to install it. I am happy with your service. I dont install but just got the part in.

Tried to replace with home-store bought 6w light. Looked the same, fit into socket, but didn't work. Actually exploded when I turned it on! Be sure to use OEM part like this one. Worked perfectly!

Process of elimination and a visit to my local repair store told me it was wise to try the tub gasket, and according to partselect.com, it solved the problem a majority of the time. My local repair dealer agreed: Try it. They agreed because for them to replace a lower door gasket AND the $10 tub gasket... if they came out, the service call and parts would equal half the cost to replace the whole dishwasher. So I bought a tub gasket from partselect.com and replaced the old one. It worked, it was easy, so if your same make & model is leaking? Try it first. That's my advice.

To quiet the noise temporarly I would spray silicone into the dryer drum groove on the front inside panel.Got tired of this and removed the top of the dryer by removing two screws under the front bottom of the dryer top. Remove two screws, one on each side of front panel(screws are on the inside). Lift the front panel straight up and swing to the side. Keep the wires connected to the panel. There is plenty of room to move panel about. Note: I replaced the drum bearing thinking it was a one piece unit with the teflon rub strips. All I had to do is order the teflon rub strips and I would have saved 24 dollars. Reverse the disassembly process to assemble.

just bolted on the new one and hooked up the hose

I watched a step by step video provided on the Fix It app. Easy to follow directions and only took minutes to tear apart and put back together. Didn't even require help from my husband. Although the latch and striker were not the problem, contacted parts select and they then recommended the electronic control board, they ordered it, had it shipped to me within a few days, another really easy fix I did using the You tube video. Fixed the problem lickety-split. I will never go without my fix it app. Entered all my appliances. Sure beats spending hundreds on appliance repairmen! Thank you Parts Select!

Replaced old gasket with new one. More difficult than expected, because new gasket was much stiffer than old one. Also, the yellow centering spot on gasket (to line up with top latch) was nearly impossible to see. Unfortunately, this did not solve the problem for me, so money was wasted. Bought new dishwasher.