DWSR483EB2CC General Electric Dryer - Instructions

It's no surprise that GE would use cheaply made parts in such a mass produced product, but it was irritating to see the start switch fail just fourteen months after purchasing the dryer. I am glad that a little thought was put into an easy snap and twist installation of the control panel switches. The original switch failed, due to arcing and pitting of the contact points no doubt, and the local parts house didn't even recognize the part, let alone have it in stock. Thanks to PartSelect.com I could have the part in just a couple of days!
The panel comes appart with just four star driver screws on top, but an allen wrench will work also. Wire jumpers with spade connectors are pulled apart and reattached with needle nose pliers.
In the mean time to keep the dryer operational, I did some creative "re-assigning" of some of the control panel jumper wires using the switch that controled the "Wrinkle Care" setting as a temporary Start Switch as it had the same current handling limits. By the way before attempting such a temporary bypass setup, consider not voiding any warrantee arrangement still applying to the product and have some basic electronics and safety knowledge, study the provided schematic well attached to the back panel and remember to write down all of the original wire connections. And when in doubt, calling a qualified GE appliance repair person is your best and safest bet.
New part went right in in about 15 minutes with original wiring restored and double-checked and the dryer is running right on que again.
Thanks PartSelect.com!

The part came today…and I installed it in 10 minutes. The only time consuming part was locating a torx screwdriver which was needed to remove the panel.
Lifted the panel, extracted the existing switch and
disconnected the wires and used a flathhead screwdriver to lift off the existing switch. Reconnected the new piece, and voila my dryer worked!
Your site is great!

After unplugging the dryer, I removed 2 metal screws up under the dryer sill rim, and removed the dryer top. Then, removed two more at the top of the front (door) section to remove it.

I wasn't careful enough when removing the door, and the wiring connectors popped loose from their connections. No harm done, though. Disconnect the wires once you remove the front panel.

I had to loosen the bottom metal screws on one side panel to have enough give to pull the dryer drum out.

The only way to replace the belt is to bend over the side of this unit and with one hand put the belt around the motor drive shaft, pull the tension pulley back, and put the belt on the wheel.

The hard part is working the drum back into place while VERY carefully slipping the belt into the drum goove. Many attempts were made only to have the belt slip off of the tension pulley or motor driveshaft. Be care full to turn the drum clock wise if the belt twists while working it into the drum groove. It was very disappointing to finally get the belt on, and work the drum back into place only to discover I had twisted the belt with the smooth side making contact on the driveshaft. Thus, I started over.

Aiming the drum into the back of the dryer is a tough task. I recommend a 1" X 4 " X 12" board to slip under the drum when beginning this process to help stablize, and guide the drum. It helped me tremendously, and was easy to remove out from under the drum once everything was back in place.

Use gloves. Yes, tough to work with in small places, and I did take them off to replace the belt around the tension pulley, however, there are too many sharp edges on the metal body of the dryer and especially the drum to do so without gloves.

Wires were easy to reattach and reassembly was smooth except for the top...check out the tabs, and spring tabs before you try and just plop the top back on. It goes a certain way...You'll know what i am talking about when you do this task.

I truly hope you have L O N G arms to do this task, and that the new belt lasts a long, long time!

I first watched the video on how to. Being mechecanically inclined I dismantled and removed everything needed to replace the drum bearing. Also removed belt at the same time. I replaced the bearing, then the belt. The belt could be a little tricky for some people. Getting the belt on the tension pulley could be a problem. What I did was I got a large nylon tie and put it around the armature of the motor. I then retracted the pulley just enough to be able to slip the belt over it. Of course this is all performed through the limited space on the bottom left, between the drum and the dryer shell. Once on the pulley, I cut the tie with wire cutters and it snapped into place. Rotated the drum a couple of times to line the belt with the pulley, perfect. I then put everything back together. I also cleaned any and all the lint that had gathered throughout the exhaust. Pluged the dryer in, perfect. Just like new. One more note getting the parts was so easy also. Your website and how to demo was a great help. Thank you, thank you very much. The words of the late Elvis Presley. They never get old.

Took apart the dryer housing fairly quickly, pulled out the drum, and installed the kit. Was fairly simple. Then reassembled. The hardest part was trying to get the belt on properly and reconnect to the motor. Believe it or not, I wasted most of my time on the belt. Should've watched the video better and listened to my wife and her suggestions.

Follow the instructions from YOUTUBE to replace the new drive belt..

I followed the YouTube video and it gave me step by step instructions however I really needed to replace my dryer slides to fix the problem.

I followed the directions I found on my tablet on youtube.

Replaced it as one would. I took off the front facing and replaced the belt. It took a bit of searching to find the proper way to route the belt around the pulley.

It took a while since it was my first time and I wasn't sure what to take apart and what to leave intact.

If I were to do it again, it would take 30 minutes or less.

I bought the Heating Element and Housing together so that I would not have to stretch and run the coils and to save time!
1. I removed the two screws that hold the top down by opening the dryer door and removing the two screws at the top of the door opening. Then I pulled the top off.
2. Then I removed the two screws on the top inside of the dryer on the left right and took the front off.
3. Next I spread the dryer open a little and pulled the drum out while pushing the belt off the back of the drum.
4. Then I removed the screws to the sensors and removed them from the housing.
5. Then I removed the four screws holding the heating element housing to the back of the dryer and took it out and put in the new peace.
6. Do everything in reverse when putting the dryer back together.

Took the dryer apart to get to the rear bearing. Took the bearing assembly out, kept the e-ring from the old bearing shaft, replaced the bearing kit, took the o-ring off the new shaft and replaced it with the e-ring, then reassembled the unit. Make sure to place a nail or long screw into into the rear of the drum, so that you can realign bearing on the drum. It is easier with two people when reassembling.

Took new one out of package, and push it on. 4 seconds!

Just push knob on less than 4 seconds

handle broke on sunday( not the best day to order things). ordered it from this site and had it by tuesday. great service and best price i found on the web. tks

Searched the sites order # online, called, ordered, delivered PDQ, unpackaged, popped in. That was it.