DWSR483EB2CC General Electric Dryer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- David from METAMORA, IL
- Parts Used:
- WE4M519
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Rotary switch would stick on
Unplugged dryer. Removed four back panel screws to expose the switches. Removed the wires from the bad switch and transferred them to the new switch. Lifted locking tab on switch and rotated it so the two locking tabs aligned with the slots. Removed old switch and inserted new switch. Rotated about a half turn and replaced the four panel screws. Plugged in the dryer and tested. Very easy repair.
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- Customer:
- Jianping from BELLEVUE, WA
- Parts Used:
- WE4M519
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Dryer won't start
(1) unplug the power from outlet. (2) unscrew the 3 screws. (3)slide the front instrument panel slight right to remove it. (4) flip over the panel (5) remember the wire colors and their connections, and remove 3 wires (6) pull up the metal tab on the start switch a bit to unlock it and turn counter clock wise to remove the switch (6) do the reverse steps to install the switch.
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- Customer:
- Carol from Bristolville, OH
- Parts Used:
- WE3M26
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Screeching noise and black burn marks
I read the repairs that others had posted and how they did it. It was really easy. My only complaint is that I didn't know that I needed the slides that attached to the bearing and couldn't find them on the repair list. My dryer had a spot for 4 of them and only 1 was left. Otherwise, being a female, I felt great to be able to fix it myself! Thanks!
Let me also say, I only have one good working arm/hand.
Let me also say, I only have one good working arm/hand.
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- Customer:
- Russell P. from Dushore, PA
- Parts Used:
- WE25M40
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Noisy Bearing "SWEEKING"
The first thing I did was move the dryer out so I could "unplug it" !
Then I took the 4 philps head screws out that hold down the top of the dryer, then I lifted up the top and moved it off to the side making sure the wires didn't get pulled out.
Then I removed the 2 5/16 cap screws that holds the front panel on and lifted that off "Make sure you mark the down were the 2 wires for the door swich go" Like white on pin 1 and yellow on pin 2!!!
The next thing is to slide the drum foward so you can remove the element package then remove the 3 philps screws in the back of the drum make sure you have someone hold the element package there is a sheild between the drum and the element package that may fall that is a watch out you will need to move the element package up so you can work on it there will be wires hooked to this ring so becare full you don't break them off.
remove the element package you will see the bearing kit attached to that.
There are 4 5/16 cap screws that hold the bearing kit to that remove them and then remove the old bearing kit you may find and E Ring holding the old bearing kit in place (this would be found in the older models).
Before you install the new bearing kit take the new self tapping screws and tap the holes in the new bearing kit mounting plates this will make things go faster!!!
Now mount the bearing plate with the 4 holes to the element package there is a tab that needs to be mount in there too so look at the old one when you are taking it off.
Pick up the sheild that fell pick it up have a second person help you hold everything in place while you line up the holes for the front plate to the back of the drum and start your screws.
Now tighten them down check to make sure your belt didn't slide off the tensioner that is next to the motor before you slide the drum back in place if it did take the time to figure out how to get it back on the right way our you will be pulling things apart again.
What I did was spin the Drum by hand to make sure everything was ok. you will know if the belt is off it will not move when you spin the drum by hand.
Now that you made sure the belt is on you can put the front back on there are 2 studs on the bottom that you need to set the frount panel on before you can put the screws back in in it.
Now that you have the fron back on it hook your 2 wires back up to the door switch like you took them off!
Now move your top back over and you will see 2 clips on the back of it that slide into a grove in the back now that you have that in place start putting the screws back in put the middle 2 in first and tighten them down them put the last 2 in.
Now plug it back in if your vent pipe fell off hook it back up as you slide your dryer back in place now try it to make sure everything is working right and you will hear the differance.
Good Luck with your repairs....
Just a quick note this dryer is over 40 years old and still going.
I have replace 6 elements and 1 drive belt since it was bought new now the bearing kit.
Clean it once a year and the vent pipe every 6 months it will last!!!
Then I took the 4 philps head screws out that hold down the top of the dryer, then I lifted up the top and moved it off to the side making sure the wires didn't get pulled out.
Then I removed the 2 5/16 cap screws that holds the front panel on and lifted that off "Make sure you mark the down were the 2 wires for the door swich go" Like white on pin 1 and yellow on pin 2!!!
The next thing is to slide the drum foward so you can remove the element package then remove the 3 philps screws in the back of the drum make sure you have someone hold the element package there is a sheild between the drum and the element package that may fall that is a watch out you will need to move the element package up so you can work on it there will be wires hooked to this ring so becare full you don't break them off.
remove the element package you will see the bearing kit attached to that.
There are 4 5/16 cap screws that hold the bearing kit to that remove them and then remove the old bearing kit you may find and E Ring holding the old bearing kit in place (this would be found in the older models).
Before you install the new bearing kit take the new self tapping screws and tap the holes in the new bearing kit mounting plates this will make things go faster!!!
Now mount the bearing plate with the 4 holes to the element package there is a tab that needs to be mount in there too so look at the old one when you are taking it off.
Pick up the sheild that fell pick it up have a second person help you hold everything in place while you line up the holes for the front plate to the back of the drum and start your screws.
Now tighten them down check to make sure your belt didn't slide off the tensioner that is next to the motor before you slide the drum back in place if it did take the time to figure out how to get it back on the right way our you will be pulling things apart again.
What I did was spin the Drum by hand to make sure everything was ok. you will know if the belt is off it will not move when you spin the drum by hand.
Now that you made sure the belt is on you can put the front back on there are 2 studs on the bottom that you need to set the frount panel on before you can put the screws back in in it.
Now that you have the fron back on it hook your 2 wires back up to the door switch like you took them off!
Now move your top back over and you will see 2 clips on the back of it that slide into a grove in the back now that you have that in place start putting the screws back in put the middle 2 in first and tighten them down them put the last 2 in.
Now plug it back in if your vent pipe fell off hook it back up as you slide your dryer back in place now try it to make sure everything is working right and you will hear the differance.
Good Luck with your repairs....
Just a quick note this dryer is over 40 years old and still going.
I have replace 6 elements and 1 drive belt since it was bought new now the bearing kit.
Clean it once a year and the vent pipe every 6 months it will last!!!
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- Customer:
- Gary from Chesnee, SC
- Parts Used:
- WE3M26
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
squeeking
Looked at the diagram on your web site and replaced part
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- Customer:
- Phuc from WOODBRIDGE, VA
- Parts Used:
- WE03X29897
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
drive belt is broken.
Follow the instructions from YOUTUBE to replace the new drive belt..
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- Customer:
- Shelly from MURFREESBORO, TN
- Parts Used:
- WE25M40
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Squeaky dryer
I followed the YouTube video and it gave me step by step instructions however I really needed to replace my dryer slides to fix the problem.
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- Customer:
- Michael E from Victoria, TX
- Parts Used:
- WE03X29897
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Dryer Belt Broke
After unplugging the dryer, I removed 2 metal screws up under the dryer sill rim, and removed the dryer top. Then, removed two more at the top of the front (door) section to remove it.
I wasn't careful enough when removing the door, and the wiring connectors popped loose from their connections. No harm done, though. Disconnect the wires once you remove the front panel.
I had to loosen the bottom metal screws on one side panel to have enough give to pull the dryer drum out.
The only way to replace the belt is to bend over the side of this unit and with one hand put the belt around the motor drive shaft, pull the tension pulley back, and put the belt on the wheel.
The hard part is working the drum back into place while VERY carefully slipping the belt into the drum goove. Many attempts were made only to have the belt slip off of the tension pulley or motor driveshaft. Be care full to turn the drum clock wise if the belt twists while working it into the drum groove. It was very disappointing to finally get the belt on, and work the drum back into place only to discover I had twisted the belt with the smooth side making contact on the driveshaft. Thus, I started over.
Aiming the drum into the back of the dryer is a tough task. I recommend a 1" X 4 " X 12" board to slip under the drum when beginning this process to help stablize, and guide the drum. It helped me tremendously, and was easy to remove out from under the drum once everything was back in place.
Use gloves. Yes, tough to work with in small places, and I did take them off to replace the belt around the tension pulley, however, there are too many sharp edges on the metal body of the dryer and especially the drum to do so without gloves.
Wires were easy to reattach and reassembly was smooth except for the top...check out the tabs, and spring tabs before you try and just plop the top back on. It goes a certain way...You'll know what i am talking about when you do this task.
I truly hope you have L O N G arms to do this task, and that the new belt lasts a long, long time!
I wasn't careful enough when removing the door, and the wiring connectors popped loose from their connections. No harm done, though. Disconnect the wires once you remove the front panel.
I had to loosen the bottom metal screws on one side panel to have enough give to pull the dryer drum out.
The only way to replace the belt is to bend over the side of this unit and with one hand put the belt around the motor drive shaft, pull the tension pulley back, and put the belt on the wheel.
The hard part is working the drum back into place while VERY carefully slipping the belt into the drum goove. Many attempts were made only to have the belt slip off of the tension pulley or motor driveshaft. Be care full to turn the drum clock wise if the belt twists while working it into the drum groove. It was very disappointing to finally get the belt on, and work the drum back into place only to discover I had twisted the belt with the smooth side making contact on the driveshaft. Thus, I started over.
Aiming the drum into the back of the dryer is a tough task. I recommend a 1" X 4 " X 12" board to slip under the drum when beginning this process to help stablize, and guide the drum. It helped me tremendously, and was easy to remove out from under the drum once everything was back in place.
Use gloves. Yes, tough to work with in small places, and I did take them off to replace the belt around the tension pulley, however, there are too many sharp edges on the metal body of the dryer and especially the drum to do so without gloves.
Wires were easy to reattach and reassembly was smooth except for the top...check out the tabs, and spring tabs before you try and just plop the top back on. It goes a certain way...You'll know what i am talking about when you do this task.
I truly hope you have L O N G arms to do this task, and that the new belt lasts a long, long time!
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- Customer:
- George from Dassel, MN
- Parts Used:
- WE25M40
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Dryer squeaked when running
Took the dryer apart to get to the rear bearing. Took the bearing assembly out, kept the e-ring from the old bearing shaft, replaced the bearing kit, took the o-ring off the new shaft and replaced it with the e-ring, then reassembled the unit. Make sure to place a nail or long screw into into the rear of the drum, so that you can realign bearing on the drum. It is easier with two people when reassembling.
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- Customer:
- Joseph from Freeland, MI
- Parts Used:
- WE25M40
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
loud noise when ran for 5 min.
Replaced the rear drum bearing. Not doing it before ,it took about 1 1/2 hrs. Problem was fixed.
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- Customer:
- Robert from Salem, MA
- Parts Used:
- WE03X29897, WE25M40
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Rear drum bearing gone (only 4 years old). Decided to replace belt while I was at it.
I first watched the video on how to. Being mechecanically inclined I dismantled and removed everything needed to replace the drum bearing. Also removed belt at the same time. I replaced the bearing, then the belt. The belt could be a little tricky for some people. Getting the belt on the tension pulley could be a problem. What I did was I got a large nylon tie and put it around the armature of the motor. I then retracted the pulley just enough to be able to slip the belt over it. Of course this is all performed through the limited space on the bottom left, between the drum and the dryer shell. Once on the pulley, I cut the tie with wire cutters and it snapped into place. Rotated the drum a couple of times to line the belt with the pulley, perfect. I then put everything back together. I also cleaned any and all the lint that had gathered throughout the exhaust. Pluged the dryer in, perfect. Just like new. One more note getting the parts was so easy also. Your website and how to demo was a great help. Thank you, thank you very much. The words of the late Elvis Presley. They never get old.
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- Customer:
- Cindy from EPHRATA, PA
- Parts Used:
- WE03X29897
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Dryer needed a new dryer belt
I followed the directions I found on my tablet on youtube.
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- Customer:
- Ronald from Aurora, NY
- Parts Used:
- WE25M40
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Drum bearing worn out
Used online instructions. Worked well.
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- Customer:
- Larry from PHOENIX, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WE3M26, WE03X37318
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Dryer Screeched When Running
Dryer started making screeching noises while running, got progressively worse. Without taking it apart first, I ordered a front drum bearing and slides because this site said it fixed the problem the majority of the time. The site said replace the slides in pairs, but there are actually four. I picked up 2 more at a local appliance store, at roughly twice the price. Turned out I didn't need th replace the plastic piece called drum bearing, just the 4 slides that clip onto it. It is really easy to get the top and front off with just a phillips screwdriver. I did not check the rear center main bearing, as it requred removing the drum. The squealing lessended but it still was bad. Took it back apart and pulled the drum, and fount the rear main bearing bad. I found one at the same local store for only 2 bucks more than on this site. This was a bit more of a hassle, you really need two people to get it mounted to the drum. Tip-pre thread the holes with the self tapping screws, it makes it easier to get it together. There was a bit of lint build up under the drum heating element cover, so it was good to clean that out. Also blew all the dirt out of the motor with compressed air and shop vac. There was a access panel on back to get to the motor and belt tensioner. Got the dryer all buttoned up and now it runs nice and quiet.
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- Customer:
- Tanya from West Fargo, ND
- Parts Used:
- WE25M40
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Squeaky Dryer
My husband and I had taken apart this dryer before, so the second time was a lot easier. The first time we took it apart it took 2-3 frustrating hours. So, if it's your first time, plan for longer.
1. Before we started anything we unplugged the dryer and disconnected the vent.
2. We removed the top and loosened the contol panel on top.
3. We removed the front. Be careful of the wires. You can label them, or just remember where they go.
4. Lay the dryer down on it's back. This make's it easier to remove the drum.
5. Remove the drum, but gently slide the belt off first. Don't stretch the belt removing it.
6. Once the drum was removed, we removed the screws from the inside of the drum.
7. We didn't need to use the entire kit, just the part that sits in the center and spins...kinda looks like a top. (Yes, that's my technical description)
8. We screwed in the new "top" and put the dryer back together.
Really the only part I had to help with (this time)was putting the drum back in to make sure it sat where it was supposed to. It made a big difference that it was laying on it's back...we didn't do that the first time, which was part of our frustration.
Putting the belt back on is a little tricky too. We had instructions still for our dryer to refer to put it back on. If you don't have yours, just google or bing for the instructions. There's website's out there with great pictures.
1. Before we started anything we unplugged the dryer and disconnected the vent.
2. We removed the top and loosened the contol panel on top.
3. We removed the front. Be careful of the wires. You can label them, or just remember where they go.
4. Lay the dryer down on it's back. This make's it easier to remove the drum.
5. Remove the drum, but gently slide the belt off first. Don't stretch the belt removing it.
6. Once the drum was removed, we removed the screws from the inside of the drum.
7. We didn't need to use the entire kit, just the part that sits in the center and spins...kinda looks like a top. (Yes, that's my technical description)
8. We screwed in the new "top" and put the dryer back together.
Really the only part I had to help with (this time)was putting the drum back in to make sure it sat where it was supposed to. It made a big difference that it was laying on it's back...we didn't do that the first time, which was part of our frustration.
Putting the belt back on is a little tricky too. We had instructions still for our dryer to refer to put it back on. If you don't have yours, just google or bing for the instructions. There's website's out there with great pictures.
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