F31C546CT0 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

Stud was coming off the motor cradle- bad swedge at the factory, Belt tensioner went on stud.

Removed small access panel in back. Remove tensioner and set to left. Remove inner and outer panels from the front of the laundry center to expose exhaust duct and blower. Loosen control panel and remove, disengaging four keyed plugs. Remove lint screen. Loosen two screws inside dryer to disengage exhaust duct and remove, Unscrew aproximately six screws and remove front half of blower. Remove clip from blower shaft, and cautiously pry the blower wheel off the shaft (this is the touchiest part of the job. Some force is necessary). Remove the back half of the blower housing by unscrewing the three screws exposed by the wheel (access through the front) and the standoff by the heat/moisture sensor (access through the back).

You have now exposed the motor. It is held on to the cradle with two clips. Remove the clips by putting your thumb on the clip above the hook and squeeaing while prying the end of the clip off with a screw driver. One clip is accessed through the back and one through the front. When the motor is loose unscrew the two screws through the back panel that keep the cradle in place. Pull it back and remove it, while holding the motor up.

Installation is the reverse. Make sure the new part matches the old part exactly. Make sure that the soft bushings on the motor are centered on the cradle before you clip it in place.

Remove top panel with large flat screwdriver and 2 screws in back.Remove bottom panel with 2 screws.Release belt tensioner and remove belt.Remove 3 screws in center of drum inside.Remove drum. Remove rear bearing by pulling up on assembly.Replace all parts in reverse order.

Popped in the new door catch! Tightened the hinge screws( which work loose and allow the door to droop. The reason the catch broke!) Also put red Loctite on the screws in an attempt to keep them from backing out again! Working great so far!!!

Romoved front from dryer . Then loosened tub , slid belt on , reached in back and put belt on pulley , turned tub till belt went into place and reassembled dryer all with the help of a 3 year old and an8 year old,so in my oppinion it was one of the easiest fixes i've ever done!

After unplugging the dryer, disconnecting it from the vent, and moving into an open work area, I popped the top open with the blade of a screwdriver, disconnected the two wires that connect to the door switch, then lifted the front panel (with the door) up and away from the drum. Next, I lifted the drum out of the worn rear bearing assembly and lowered it into the dryer in order to release tension on the belt. I then removed the entire drum by carrying it forward and out of the way. I then removed the old bearing assembly, which was loose and covered with metal dust. After cleaning the area with a dry cloth to remove the old grease and metal dust, and vacuuming all the lint off *everything*, I installed the new bearing assembly with a 5/16" nut driver, being careful to position the provided ball-bearing between the plastic bearing assembly and the outer clip. The little ball-bearing is very important, as it is the drum's only path to ground, and prevents the build up of static electricity as the drums spins. I then filled the new bearing assembly with the provided grease. Everything is easy up to this point, but the difficult part for me was removing the old hub from the drum and re-attaching the new one. It is held on by three screws and they become seated very tightly. After loosening them and removing the old hub from the drum, attaching the new one prvoed difficult as well, as the screw-holes in the new hub are not threaded to fit the screws. The screws muct be forced to cut a thread as you install them, which requires a great deal of force. After installing the new hub and putting the new belt (pruchased separately) around the drum, the next step is to reinstall the drum by lifting it in through the front of the dryer and positioning the new hub over the new bearing assembly and pressing it down into place. It will gently "snap" into place as it seats. Then, on the back side of the dryer, I removed the vent panel by removing the two screws that hold it in place and positioned the new drive belt (loosely dangling around the drum) over the motor's drive wheel and behind the sring-tensioned idle arm. Then it is a simply matter to reinstall the front panel by genly lifting the drum and sliding the door opening inside it, then reseating all the little clips that hold the front panel in place. I then pressed the top back into place, reconnected the vent hose, plugged it back in and checked for operation. My fifteen year-old dryer now works like new!

With the excellent replacement parts sold by this site, it went like silk. The dryer is not only working great, but actually quieter.

After lifting the dryer top and finding the location of the thermal limiter on the back of the dryer, where it is difficult to get at, I carefully cut through the dryer cabinet with the multimaster on three sides to form a 'flap' upon which the limiter was mounted. By prying this flap open from the back, the two wires and two screws are easily accessible to replace the limiter, without having to remove the whole drum. Afterwards, I just bent the flap back into place and taped the seams. If it ever blows again, the fix will take all of about two minutes.

UNPLUG DRYER (this is key) Removed the top of dryer. used screwdriver and pliers to remove two screws and electrical connections then reinstalled new part stick the magnet behind the part to the back of the dryer to help control the small screws.

removed two screws - replaced lint screen replacement, TIME TO REPLACE UNIT - ONE MINUTE. What made this project a snap was the pictures and graphs( parts replace) uses to ensure you are ordering the exact screen .

Open the top of the dryer. Reach inside and remove 2 screws that hold the front in place. Detach the power cord inside where there is a connector. Remove the front of the dryer. That exposed the drum glide where all three nylon guides had worn off.

Peel off the old guide. Clean the surface with sandpaper. Use the supplied adhesive to glue on the new guide. Use masking tape to hold it while it dried.

Reverse the first paragraph to re-install.

I took the new door catch out of the packaging and just snapped it in place it was easy peasy and took less time than opening the package

So easy! I ordered the part on the website. Received it 24 hours later. And popped it in place. Good as new.

Disconnected power cord; lifted top using putty knife to open spring holds on the sides of the top; released front panel by removing screw from each side;removed old glide and glue; glued new piece in place; reconnected all parts and let dry overnight.

A caution to take care of sharp/rough edges when removing old felt and glide. Goof Off worked well enough along with elbow grease to remove the old glue. A stonger solvent may have worked better, but did not want fumes and residue in the area.

Fit of new glide was straightforward and fit well to the lower felt glide..

(Turns out that the squeak was primarily from the rear bearing that needed some cleaning and grease, but am glad to have replaced the worn front glide)

replaced bearing and shaft new belt and everything works just fine

I am a "do-it-yourselfer" despite my husbands opposition. I followed instructions from one of the posts on the site and took apart the dryer. I found the location of the rear bearing and took it out and replaced it with the new one. Easy as that. Made sure the parts looked the same. Made sure I saw how everything went together. I used a magnet to hold the ball bearing in place on the rear mount and taped the metal bracket on the outside of the dryer. Screwed it right in. Reassembled in reverse and works like a charm. To all the women out there who don't think they can do this. It's easy. Give it a try.