FGR211CAS1 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

Vacuumed lint and inserted new filter.

Taking off front of and top of dryer and panels on the back. Releasing the belt and taking out the tube un screwing the two pieces off the back of the machine putting new ones in and putting belt back around drum and setting drum in. Then holding drum while the front is put back on then attach top and a couple panels on the back.

I opened top section with a screwdriver, pushing in the release.
I opened front panel with door with screwdriver pushing in the release.
I lifted drum out through the front.
I replace the Idler Arm assembly.
I greased the rear drum bearing race.
I vacuumed out and cleaned blower and dryer area.
I put the new belt on the drum, reinstalled the drum.
I put belt around drive motor and Idler arm assembley.
I put front panel with door back on.
I put the top panel back down and snapped into place.
Tested dryer, job done!

You simply pry the old handle off with a flathead screwdriver, and then line up the new handle and snap it into place. It took less than 30 seconds! A breeze.

I matched the "D" on the shaft with the part on the knob, pushed them together, and --- TAH-DAH! Done! 15 seconds tops!

so easy my daughter installed it the video was very helpful

1. Use flat blade to compress clips so top could be raised. Use Philips to remove 2 screws holding front on. Popped front off and then removed old worn and broken glides. Had to lift the drum slightly when placing the front back on. Screwed in the 2 screws to hold the front on. Lowered and locked top. Be careful not to pinch any wires..

I suspected a worn belt and that's what it was. I watched 2 videos on belt replacement and it was not a hard fix. The only "problems" I could foresee would be moving the drum around if you are not that strong. Its not terribly heavy, just a little awkward. I also sliced the top of my hand a little on the underside of the cabinet when moving the drum. Being a little more careful that wouldn't have happened. Part plus shipping was less then $20, and we now have a great working dryer again. I also got a zap when I forgot I had plugged it back in and was putting the inside screws back and the screwdriver crossed some wires. Nothing bad, just a quick jolt. Remember to unplug it until you're all done!

There was no heat, the dryer worked in all respects but the flame did not come on to dry the clothes. I suspected the ignighter so I disconected the wire leading to the ignighter and tested the electrical connection with a regular tester used for testing 120 v ac circuits in a normal residential house outlet. I turned the dryer on and used the tester on the incoming electrical line that I disconnected from the ignighter there was power so I determined that the trouble was with the ignighter,it took about ten minutes to replace the ignighter after I received the part from partselect. The dryer worked fine with the new part. A fairly simple job to take the burner out and install the ignighter.

I viewed a video online and my repair was as simple as the video showed. Love that I am able to do quick fixes like this! Thanks Partselect.com!

This repair took about fifteen minutes. I popped the top of the dryer using a flat-blade screwdriver, leaned it back against the back wall, unscrewed two screws holding the front panel, removed the five electrical spade contacts after marking which went where, swung out the panel and lifted it off. After that, it was a simple job to unscrew the plate holding the solenoids in, at the bottom left of the unit. I replaced the solenoids, closed everything up and now the dryer is working better than it has in the last three years, or so. If your dryer is heating sporadically, the odds are 85%, or more, that a solenoid swap-out will correct the problem.

Referred to Video and replaced drum support bearing as shown. Did not solve the problem as noise was still present. Called professional repairman, who replaced the belt pulley, along with all the parts I had just installed (came as part of a total kit). I was on the correct path, but just didn't go far enough to check out the belt pulley. If it should happen again, I could complete the whole repair process. Great learning process!!

Part Select got me the right parts in the agreed time--good job. Shut off the power or unplug the dryer which ever is easiest. The toughest part of doing this job was figuring out how the lid came off the dryer, if you have a jack knife or a putty knife you push it in between the top of the dryer and the body about an inch below the dryer top and about six inch from both sides of the dryer front you will hit a latch that releases the top--slip a screw driver into the opening and do the other side. The top can be removed or you can hold it open with a stick. There are two screws that you need to locate they are on the inside of the dryer front about 9" from the top one on each side they are all that hold the front on the body so remove them but carefully not to drop them inside the dryer. On my dryer there were two screw inside the dryer door that held the filter body onto the front that had to be removed too. Then push the screw driver between the front and the body of the dryer like the top and it will pop open. There are some wires going to the front from the body they can be unplug just follow the wires to the connection point. On mine, I squeezed the sides of the connector and the wires pulled apart. Now you can move the front aside. At the lower right in the body you find the valve and heater burner. On top of the valve there are two sets of wires coming off the valve. Disconnect the wires--one set is for a three wire connection the other for two wire connection. Your parts have a two wire coil and a three wire coil. The coils are freed by unscrewing the metal cover that holds them down remove the two screws and that cover then remove the old coil off the valve then replace the new coil with the part that is the same. Three pin coil with three pin coil positioning in the same way as the old coil, then do the other one. Reattached the metal cover with the screws and put it all back together in reverse order. The dryer chamber--the inside of the dryer rests on the front so when you put them together you may have to lift the chamber up to met the face a little (1/4"). Good luck.

Never knew I was handy, but I did it! I was reluctant to spend a couple $100 on a repair visit, so found this site and bought the coils I needed for only $26+tax. It's pretty easy. I just lifted up the top of the dryer with a screw driver, should snap open. Then unscrewed the front panel with two screws from the inside. Then located the old coils on the bottom left. The bracket that holds them is a little difficult to remove as you need to have a small philips screw driver to get the back one. But once I got that off, just unplugged the old ones and put the bracket back, then the panels and it WORKED. The only problem I have is that I didn't take the door switch off properly and now the dryer doesn't stop spinning if I open the door and want to check the clothes. So I may have to get someone in eventually.

I have used this company twice now and both times have been a good experience. Would highly recommend!