CDG4205AWW Crosley Dryer - Instructions

All you need for a Maytag is a snub nose Philips screw driver. The screws on the front panel are at the bottom angled down, so a regular length Phillip's won't work. Just unscrew the 2 screws, then lift the panel up and out. Careful not to pull out too far, there are 2 wires attached to the switch. The replacement switch is NOT an exact copy of the old one. My Maytag is over 30 years old and it only had 2 prongs on the switch. The new one has 3. Don't let that throw you. It is the same size. Just attach, 1 wire to the bronze connector & the other to the silver. Push the switch into the door opening, re-attach the door. Total time 20 minutes. Saved well over $100 in a service call. Anyone with an IQ above freezing can do it.

Inspect controller board and found discoloration around four resistors. Remove controller housing to access controller board. Removed four mtg. screws and wire harnesses. intalled new controller board and retest. Cycles with heat.

Graet

Replaced both rollers,shafts, bearings and snap rings.

removed the screws and disconnected the wires and replaced the old unite with the new one

The directions provided to modify the gas valve were very clear. Getting to the gas valve I was on my own. Taking the top and the face off the dryer, once I figured out that there was no reaching the gas valve from any of the access ports on the back, was the only way to access to the gas valve. If you have worked on any other dryers, this modification was definitely doable.

Just took the old one out and put the new one in! Fit perfectly! Very happy with your service and part came super quick!

I was able to quickly make this repair with the help of some instructions that I found on this site on how to remove the front panel of my dryer. 4 screws on the front around the door (and removal of the door) and then it was simply a matter of rolling the top portion out to pop it out of some clips and then the front panel opened toward me and I was able to lift it off of the metal fingers that secure it on the bottom. Removing the old baffle was a matter of removing two screws with a nutdriver and installation of the new baffle was a breeze. All in all I was done start to finish in under 10 minutes.

Piece of cake. Use the available manual to ascertain dismantling procedure. Only thing that might be tough for average DIY'er is the internal snap rings. Snap ring pliers are mandatory for quick easy repair.
Total time was probably about 15 minutes and this was the first time I had taken it apart. Quiet as a mouse now!
Very helpful site.

I looked up my problem online and everything I saw said to change the roller wheels that hold the barrel of the dryer. After doing that (twice, once on each side) I was still having a horrible squeaking sound so bad that we were waiting to do laundry until we were leaving for a while. Finally I determined that the problem was actually the idler wheel. All I had to do was remove the bolt holding the idler arm on (it's the arm that has a spring connected to it that moves to allow the belt on or off) and put the new arm with the new wheel on. The dryer is now whisper quiet and works perfectly.

Replaced damaged parts and recommended parts normally causing the problem. Dryer is working again like new. I expended $112 rather than $600 for a new equipment. Good deal!

The dryer started making a screeching/squealing noise…when it became unbearable, I decided to research the problem and found this website - it was tremendously helpful.

Based on what I found, I decided to order two drum rollers and two shafts – hoping that would solve the problem. My husband and I disassembled the dryer and replaced those parts. We also vacuumed the unit and wiped down the 10 years of gunk. Honestly I am surprised we have not had a fire given the amount of dust/lint inside the unit. I also took the opportunity to give the vent a good cleaning as well.

We put the unit back together, turned it on and listened to the quiet hum of our renewed dryer. Until about 15 minutes later and then the screeching/squealing started again. Kicking myself for not ordering the idler arm and shaft as well as the idler pulley wheel and bearing the first time – I went online and placed another order.

We took the unit apart a second time. We did inspect the pulley the previous time, but it appeared in good working order. Not seized like some of the other posts mentioned. Upon further inspection, it did seem to make a squealing noise when we wiggled it – duh!

The unit was put back together, quietly doing it’s job and we feel confident that we will get a few more years out of it. The videos were extremely helpful as were the posts from other do-it-yourselfers. We saved a lot of money with this fix.

Good luck!

BTW - The Lint Filter was not a problem - I just thought after 10 years, we could use a new one. I laughed when I saw the repair video on it!

I had replaced belt, but the noise continued. Ordered new rollers and washer. Removed the front panel by tipping the dryer back against the wall and removing two screws at the bottom of the panel. Tipping the dryer makes it easy to remove the front panel. Removed the front drum support by removing four (4) screws. I was then able to just move the drum enough to have access to the rollers. Didn't even have to remove the belt. Replaced the rollers. Needed special pliers to remove and replace the retaining rings. Put the drum back into position and mounted the front drum support. Tightened four screws and then put the front panel back on. Plugged it in and tested it. Problem solved. Took about 35 minutes. Thanks

i removed the 2 screws holding the door hindges on. then i removed the 2 adjasent screws to remove the front door panel. i rotated the drum to aceses the screws holding the baffle and installed the baffle .

Removed front of dryer, removed 3 screws from bracket mounted on bottom holding gas valve assembly, removed nozzle from assembly. Removed 2 screws that held gas valve assembly to bracket. Replaced with new gas valve assembly and dryer works fine