ALG643RAW-PALG643R Amana Dryer - Instructions

Used a dolly to move the drier out in the garage to give myself some room to work...remove the bottom panel--2 screws at the bottom...remove the door--2 screws at the bottom of the door, disconnect the 2 switch wires and then it slips out of the top....remove 2 screws from the top and swing the top all the way back out of the way---it'll just hang there.....remove the front drum support--4 screws.....slide the drum forward while working the drive belt off of the drum.....you can now see the 2 drum support wheels.....at that time I got my shop vac and got all the lint and crud outa there......remove the snap ring on each wheel, slide off the washer and wheel, pay attention--the wheel has a front and back.....reinstall the new wheel with washer and snap ring (i put a small dab of grease on the wheel support)....I also put a dab of grease on the belt tensioner wheel support--same little snap ring retainer.....reinstall the drum by sliding it in slowly as you work the belt back into place....install the front drum support--roll the drum by hand to make sure your belt is on properly.... resecure the top, then the door, and finally the bottom....when facing the drier my left wheel was in way worse condition----this is obviously because it is located right in front of the heating element....thanx and good luck....

Disconnect power. First, remove the lower front panel, then the upper front panel (disconnect door switch wiring). Remove two screws holding the top panel to the left and right side panels. Remove wiring connections to light and humidity sensor. Remove four screws to front drum support assembly, lift up to disengage tangs, and remove assembly. Reach in and find the idler assembly for the drum drive belt, and unwrap the belt to loosen it, also removing the belt from the motor pulley.. Slide the drum out the front of the dryer along with the drive belt. Remove the snap ring (using snap ring pliers) and washer holding the idler pulley on to the idler assembly. Remove the idler pulley. Polish the shaft with fine steel wool to get rid of dirt. Clean thoroughly, leaving no steel wool residue. Install replacement pulley, washer, and snap ring. Reinstall drum, taking care to feed belt back into place as the drum is reinstalled. Reach in and wrap the belt around the motor pulley and the idler pulley. Reinstall the front drum support by lifting the drum slightly to allow the support to engage with the drum, and then drop it down to re-engage the tabs into the left and right side panels while reseating it into the blower intake. Install the four screws to hold it in place, and reinstall the wiring for the light and the humidity sensor. Attach the top panel to the left and right side panels with one screw for each side. Reinstall the upper front panel, including reattaching the wiring to the door switch, with two screws. Finally, reinstall the lower front panel. Reconnect to the power source, and you should be good to go.

I disconnected power and vent hose then tipped dryer on its back. I took off lower panel and door ,disconnecting wires to door and light and hanging them over the side,i then removed the front plate and felt seal the plastic fan shroud and lint trap come out as one piece along with the front plate.when i could look down on the drum,standing on the left side ,i disconnected the screw connecting the top plate to the left side plate allowing the top to gain a little play,this is the amount needed for the drum to be removed,pull belt tensioner slightly as to release tension remove the belt from motor shaft.At this point remove drum and set aside,the lower felt ring and support rollers will be exposed as well as tension spring and tension roller,i used a mirror and guided the snap ring pliers into place on the tension roller,At this point pull on rear felt ring it may come loose easy ,if not work some adhesive remover into the cracks where the glue is and keep agitating it ,eventually the glue will begin to release and more and more of the remover can get in washing the felt ring off,clean real good after using remover soap and water and allow to dry ,apply a thin ring of high heat adhesive smooth out to spread even all around when it becomes tacky begin applying new felt ring,while this adhesive cures perform the same procedure on the front panel and its felt ring while these rings are drying into place undo snap rings and pull support rollers out and replace in like order replacing thrust washers and snap rings if you damage them ,the roller on the tensioner is more tricky but if you use a mirror and a light it is easy to sneak in there lastly when preparing to reassemble and drum and belt are in place just before you replace the front panel it is prudent to replace the neoprene slides,reassemble front plate and ensure that the felt ring lines up and goes in evenly all the way around re-attach top left corner ,reinstall door and wires as well as bottom plate this will conclude the procedure i learned all of this the hard way i should have just replaced all the parts at once i was in that machine 6 different times Daniel 2017

I just followed the video instructions and really they were not as good as some of the customer descriptions which were far more detailed. It was like an experienced repairman telling another experienced repairman how he has been doing this repair for 20 years. The customers get into the kind of detail that is very helpful. More important parts select never tells you to read the blogs first before ordering your parts. $100 later I bought a new GE dryer which I would have done 10 days ago had I known Maytag has a repetitive problem with the high limit thermal fuse which no one has a cure for. So I did a whole bunch of repairs replacing parts on a dryer which needed to be replaced.

Followed the recommended repair under noisy machine, replacing the 3 recommended parts. The 10 minute video was extremely helpful. Important note: there are two(2) drum support rollers. Also, you definitely need very small C ring pliers and don't forget to label all wires before disconnecting.

I took out the 2 screws on the bottom of the front cover, pulled out at the bottom, disconnected the 2 wires for the front door and removed 2 screws on the inside top of the front panel and removed. The top of the dryer then flips over. I then tool out 4 more screws and took out the drum. I totally cleaned out the inside of the dryer and then took the oring pliers and removed the oring that held the roller on the belt tension bar and replaced it with the new one that you sent me. I put the drum back in and put the belt back on the new roller, I put the dryer back together and now I have a good dryer that will last another 10 years.

I totally disassembled the Dryer, and replaced the Guide Rollers, Blower Wheel, Idler Pulley Shaft, Idler Pulley, and Belt.

I first replaced the blower fan, then noticed excessive heat. That was the reason the blower fan came apart. Watched some videos on the symptoms and ordered said thermostat. I removed lower front access panel, thermostat is on exhaust side of blower fan housing, removed 2 screws transferred the 3 wires installed new thermostat and done.

showed starting withe removal of the dryer top. With my dryer, I needed to start by removing the bottom front panel (2 screws). Next the door panel (2 screws). Now I could remove the top panel (2 screws). From here, the tear down went like the directions th My biggest problems were, figuring out I didn't start with the dryer top. Then getting a proper sized snap ring pliers to remove the drum rollers and and the idler pulley.

Went to YouTube and put in good.. did not fix the problem with the dryer but it has a new belt on it now!

This dryer is an older one. I have kept it running throughout the years by just replacing parts a needed. This was a kind of rebuild. The dryer was making that squeaking noise when running so I knew the "glides" were worn and the belt, rollers and idler pulley had never been replaced. I ordered the parts from this website and I must say it took a while for them to ship, of course I guess since it was during the holidays that's to be expected. Once I received the parts I took the dryer apart. This model has a lower panel that comes off first then there are two 5/16" sheet metal screws that hold the door panel in place and then two more to hold the top down. Then I removed the front bulkhead which holds the drum glides. I replaced the glides then removed the drum from the dryer. To removed the motor there are two 5/16" screws to removed then pull the motor from the bottom. I then replaced the idler pulley, the two drum rollers on the rear of the dryer and the belt on the drum. Reassembly went fairly easy. I found the door switch was bad during reassembly because the dryer would not shut off once the door was opened. So picked up a new door switch from a local supplier, replaced it and all is good now. There really isn't that much to a dryer. A motor, heating unit (in the rear), control unit/timer on top, and then the rollers, idler pulley, and drum belt. The video instructions on this website were quite helpful. Hopefully it will last another year.

very well had to take blower assy apart with no problem ownly problem I had was getting the belt lined back up but got it and it works great

I guessed that a new belt may fix the problem. The repair was nearly as easy as the video suggested. I believe the dryer had been repaired before since there was a circular panel on the side which had been removed. I could reach in through the side to slip the new belt onto the pulley. The new belt now enables the drum to turn even for heavy loads.

. I had replaced the idler pulley a number of years ago so I assumed that the noise was now due to either the sliders at the front of the drum or bad rollers at the back.. I removed power by turning off the breaker that serviced the dryer. After removing the lower front panel via the two sheet metal screws at the bottom I then removed the door panel. The safety switch behind the door had to be removed by depressing the sides of the switch after disconnecting the two push on connectors. One will discover that reconnecting the smaller of the two contacts to the unused contact on the switch will allow one to run the dryer with the door off or open. This can be useful to test operation after the repair is complete before reassembling the door and lower panels. I then removed the large panel that secures the front of the drum. The drum is then removed after releasing tension on the drive belt. All rotating parts and sliders could then be checked. Upon disassembly I found that the rollers and sliders appeared ok and decided to replace the idler pulley as a last attempt to fix the problem. This is best done by removing the tension arm and tensioning spring. the pulley is then more easily removed from the arm using snap ring pliers. After replacing the pulley and thrust washer with new parts I reassembled everything. I found it helpful to pretension the arm using a zip tie wrap in that the belt can be more easily reinstalled on the drum and pulley. When the drum and belt is properly in place and belt threaded, one can reach in with a pair of cutters and snip the tie wrap to re tension the system. The dryer has been running normally again for a week after affecting this repair.

I followed the online video on PartSelect website. No other instruction necessary.