ALG643RAW-PALG643R Amana Dryer - Instructions
Jump to:
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
- Customer:
- Edward D from GRAND BLANC, MI
- Parts Used:
- WP40111201
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Belt deteriorated, cracked, slipping
I just followed the video instructions and really they were not as good as some of the customer descriptions which were far more detailed. It was like an experienced repairman telling another experienced repairman how he has been doing this repair for 20 years. The customers get into the kind of detail that is very helpful. More important parts select never tells you to read the blogs first before ordering your parts. $100 later I bought a new GE dryer which I would have done 10 days ago had I known Maytag has a repetitive problem with the high limit thermal fuse which no one has a cure for. So I did a whole bunch of repairs replacing parts on a dryer which needed to be replaced.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Daniel from ridgecrest, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP37001132, WP37001042, WPW10121334
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
the drum was clunking and scraping,also it had begun to eat clothing
I disconnected power and vent hose then tipped dryer on its back. I took off lower panel and door ,disconnecting wires to door and light and hanging them over the side,i then removed the front plate and felt seal the plastic fan shroud and lint trap come out as one piece along with the front plate.when i could look down on the drum,standing on the left side ,i disconnected the screw connecting the top plate to the left side plate allowing the top to gain a little play,this is the amount needed for the drum to be removed,pull belt tensioner slightly as to release tension remove the belt from motor shaft.At this point remove drum and set aside,the lower felt ring and support rollers will be exposed as well as tension spring and tension roller,i used a mirror and guided the snap ring pliers into place on the tension roller,At this point pull on rear felt ring it may come loose easy ,if not work some adhesive remover into the cracks where the glue is and keep agitating it ,eventually the glue will begin to release and more and more of the remover can get in washing the felt ring off,clean real good after using remover soap and water and allow to dry ,apply a thin ring of high heat adhesive smooth out to spread even all around when it becomes tacky begin applying new felt ring,while this adhesive cures perform the same procedure on the front panel and its felt ring while these rings are drying into place undo snap rings and pull support rollers out and replace in like order replacing thrust washers and snap rings if you damage them ,the roller on the tensioner is more tricky but if you use a mirror and a light it is easy to sneak in there lastly when preparing to reassemble and drum and belt are in place just before you replace the front panel it is prudent to replace the neoprene slides,reassemble front plate and ensure that the felt ring lines up and goes in evenly all the way around re-attach top left corner ,reinstall door and wires as well as bottom plate this will conclude the procedure i learned all of this the hard way i should have just replaced all the parts at once i was in that machine 6 different times Daniel 2017
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Dean from Minneapolis, MN
- Parts Used:
- WP37001132, WP37001036
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Drum not turning
First of all I think this was an assembly issue, cause it was a bit noisy since we bought it, but I dismissed it as a break in noise & it would go away over time, but of course it just got worst ontil it failed....
Anyway 1st thing I did was, stick a standard screwdriver between the top & front, to pop the top off, then used a socket wrench set to remove the 2 screws for the front panel assembly, ( **taking note were what color wire connectors went were 3 for switch "y,g,b" & 2 for light "yb & g"), then used socket wrench set to remove 4 screws for the front bulkhead, ( upon removal I now understood what the noise was all about, the lip of the drum was rubbing against the bulkhead & both cylinder glide brackets, wearing the drum lip & cylinder glide brackets, down to shards of metal, rasor sharp, Both brackets were wore in half & bulkhead damaged ), then I removed the shards from the drum & used the hamer to dull & round a smaller drum lip, then I removed lint trap holder from bulkhead, ( since I had it apart I took it outside & cleaned it with my power jet hose attachment ), then I removed missalined & Damaged cylinder seal, srcapped bulkhead clean with standard screwdriver, applide goop glue to bulkhead & new cylinder seal, then applide new seal & let dry overnite, in the mean time I removed both damaged (the other half), cylinder glide brackets, used the old gliders & pads, ( they were not damaged, " LIKE NEW"???), attached them to the new bracket, then attached the 2 cylinder bracket assemblies to the bulkhead, then I used metal tape (several layers on both sides of bulkhead) to fix the damage caused by the old missalined seal & drum lip.... Then I re-assmembled lint trap holder to bulkhead, & re-assembled bulkhead to dryer, then attached the front, ( see above**), then popped the top into place... Now we have a GOOD QUIET dryer
Anyway 1st thing I did was, stick a standard screwdriver between the top & front, to pop the top off, then used a socket wrench set to remove the 2 screws for the front panel assembly, ( **taking note were what color wire connectors went were 3 for switch "y,g,b" & 2 for light "yb & g"), then used socket wrench set to remove 4 screws for the front bulkhead, ( upon removal I now understood what the noise was all about, the lip of the drum was rubbing against the bulkhead & both cylinder glide brackets, wearing the drum lip & cylinder glide brackets, down to shards of metal, rasor sharp, Both brackets were wore in half & bulkhead damaged ), then I removed the shards from the drum & used the hamer to dull & round a smaller drum lip, then I removed lint trap holder from bulkhead, ( since I had it apart I took it outside & cleaned it with my power jet hose attachment ), then I removed missalined & Damaged cylinder seal, srcapped bulkhead clean with standard screwdriver, applide goop glue to bulkhead & new cylinder seal, then applide new seal & let dry overnite, in the mean time I removed both damaged (the other half), cylinder glide brackets, used the old gliders & pads, ( they were not damaged, " LIKE NEW"???), attached them to the new bracket, then attached the 2 cylinder bracket assemblies to the bulkhead, then I used metal tape (several layers on both sides of bulkhead) to fix the damage caused by the old missalined seal & drum lip.... Then I re-assmembled lint trap holder to bulkhead, & re-assembled bulkhead to dryer, then attached the front, ( see above**), then popped the top into place... Now we have a GOOD QUIET dryer
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- George from WORTON, MD
- Parts Used:
- WPY54414, WPW10121334
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set
The dryer had been squeaking for at least 6 months when it finally became painfully loud and unacceptable
. I had replaced the idler pulley a number of years ago so I assumed that the noise was now due to either the sliders at the front of the drum or bad rollers at the back.. I removed power by turning off the breaker that serviced the dryer. After removing the lower front panel via the two sheet metal screws at the bottom I then removed the door panel. The safety switch behind the door had to be removed by depressing the sides of the switch after disconnecting the two push on connectors. One will discover that reconnecting the smaller of the two contacts to the unused contact on the switch will allow one to run the dryer with the door off or open. This can be useful to test operation after the repair is complete before reassembling the door and lower panels. I then removed the large panel that secures the front of the drum. The drum is then removed after releasing tension on the drive belt. All rotating parts and sliders could then be checked. Upon disassembly I found that the rollers and sliders appeared ok and decided to replace the idler pulley as a last attempt to fix the problem. This is best done by removing the tension arm and tensioning spring. the pulley is then more easily removed from the arm using snap ring pliers. After replacing the pulley and thrust washer with new parts I reassembled everything. I found it helpful to pretension the arm using a zip tie wrap in that the belt can be more easily reinstalled on the drum and pulley. When the drum and belt is properly in place and belt threaded, one can reach in with a pair of cutters and snip the tie wrap to re tension the system. The dryer has been running normally again for a week after affecting this repair.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Daryl from WESTBOROUGH, MA
- Parts Used:
- WP40111201
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Our Maytag dryer wouldn't spin under a load of wet clothes.
After checking out a video showing how to change the belt I decided to tackle the job. First I pried up the top, there are two plastic tabs in the front corners that hold the top down to the front panel. The top swings upward and will stay in position while you continue to work. Using a 3/8 socket, I removed 4 bolts that hold the front panel onto the frame. Be sure to unhitched the wiring to the door switch and those to the control panel and then the front will come out by lifting it off the tabs in the lower corners. Put the front panel aside and slide the drum forward and out of the dryer frame. Remove the old belt noting how it ms oriented around the tensioner and motor pulley. Now everything should be exposed and you should take the time and clean the inside if I were you. Our dryer was filled with lint and dust but after a good vacuuming and wiping down with a damp sponge, it looked like new again. Put the new belt around the drum noting where it had sat before. There is a grove in the drum but our belt did not go inside their but on the drum itself. Slide the drum back in place and from underneath put the belt on the pulley and under the tensioner. Replace the front panel, rehitch the wires and put the top down and your done. My wife helped clean the inside which took longer than replacing the belt. Total time about an hour or so cleaning time included.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Arthur from Orlando, FL
- Parts Used:
- WPY54414, WP37001042, WP2200376
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Socket set
Motor needed to be replaced, Dryer would shut off due to motor over heating. Once motor cooled down dryer would work for a short time until motor over heated.
The Dryer is about 25-30 years old. I replaced the motor due to overheating, while I had the dryer disassembled I decided to change out the idler pully wheel and the drum support rollers. This was my first time changing out the motor. Surprisingly, the blowerfan blade came off the shaft of the motor very easy. I was concerned about the age of the dryer and was anticiapating this could be a problem fortunately, it came off very easy. Removing the old motor was easy. The only issue I had was seating the new motor in the correct position. I felt that the motor was not in the correct posiotion however, I was not sure being that this was my first install.
After trying several times, rotaing the motor back and forth (side to side) within the motor holding end brackets the motor fell into place and I was able to put on the end motor clamps on correctly. The drying is now working.
After trying several times, rotaing the motor back and forth (side to side) within the motor holding end brackets the motor fell into place and I was able to put on the end motor clamps on correctly. The drying is now working.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Gary from Pocono Lake, PA
- Parts Used:
- WPY54414, WP40111201
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Drum would not consistantly turn
Viewed video on website, however did not match model but put me in the ball park for an overall view. Thank goodness I had the insight to order the pully with the belt. I believe the pully failed first causing the problem with the belt. Recommend replacing both any way while you have it apart.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Bruce from Frazer, PA
- Parts Used:
- WPY54414, WP56076, WP40111201, WP37001298, WP37001144, WP37001042, WP23748, WP500121, WPW10121334
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Loud squealing noise
Loud squealing noise coming from the idler pulley. The pulley was not spinning freely on the shaft of the idler pulley lever to the point of putting a groove in the pulley and damaging the belt. To fix the problem replaced the belt, idler pulley, and idler pulley lever. Because I had the dryer apart also replace the following items. Drum support roller and drum slides.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Nick from Mesa, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WPY54414
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The belt wore a groove in the belt tention roller and started sliping.
I took out the 2 screws on the bottom of the front cover, pulled out at the bottom, disconnected the 2 wires for the front door and removed 2 screws on the inside top of the front panel and removed. The top of the dryer then flips over. I then tool out 4 more screws and took out the drum. I totally cleaned out the inside of the dryer and then took the oring pliers and removed the oring that held the roller on the belt tension bar and replaced it with the new one that you sent me. I put the drum back in and put the belt back on the new roller, I put the dryer back together and now I have a good dryer that will last another 10 years.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Gregory from Holland, MI
- Parts Used:
- WP2200376
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
dryer only buzzed when started
This amana dryer didn't have the lower panel with screws. Instead, I removed the brackets in the back and found that the whole top would separate from the rest of the body (except for wiring, of course.) There seemed to be screws holding the top to the base in the front, but these are just guide posts. There are two spring clips in the front that you can pop loose with a putty knife.
Then there are two screws inside that fasten the front to the rest of the frame. Once I removed these, and the electrical connections to the door switch and the light bulb, the whole front came of just by tilting it forward and pulling the front panel up off of metal tabs on the base.
The rest of the repair went smoothly per other descriptions.
Then there are two screws inside that fasten the front to the rest of the frame. Once I removed these, and the electrical connections to the door switch and the light bulb, the whole front came of just by tilting it forward and pulling the front panel up off of metal tabs on the base.
The rest of the repair went smoothly per other descriptions.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- steven from HOLMEN, WI
- Parts Used:
- WP2200376
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set
drum did not turn
very well had to take blower assy apart with no problem ownly problem I had was getting the belt lined back up but got it and it works great
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- William from MELBOURNE, FL
- Parts Used:
- WP40111201
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Drum did not turn on heavy loads, only light loads.
I guessed that a new belt may fix the problem. The repair was nearly as easy as the video suggested. I believe the dryer had been repaired before since there was a circular panel on the side which had been removed. I could reach in through the side to slip the new belt onto the pulley. The new belt now enables the drum to turn even for heavy loads.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Geoffrey from GREAT FALLS, VA
- Parts Used:
- 56000
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set
Delaminated blower fan
I followed the online video on PartSelect website. No other instruction necessary.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Edward A. from PHILADELPHIA, PA
- Parts Used:
- 56000
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
I changed multiple parts on my dryer.
I totally disassembled the Dryer, and replaced the Guide Rollers, Blower Wheel, Idler Pulley Shaft, Idler Pulley, and Belt.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- jeanne from NEWBERRY, FL
- Parts Used:
- WP37001132
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Front Drum Seal became detatched.I Recommend replacing both seals.
Step by step, I removed the bottom front panel with a putty knife to compress the spring clamps, removed the inner lint trap, disconnected the door switch and springs and blower connection under the drum, removed the lint trap/ blower housing, remove nuts at bottom sides of door panel, lift top front of dryer (putty knife, spring clamps) to remove nuts at the top then removed the door panel. I then released the belt from the (spring) pulley and pulled the drum out. Pay attention to how the seals were put on! I removed the old seals and cleaned off the old adhesive with acetone and a steel scrubby( wear gloves when using acetone and when applying new adhesive, and work in a ventilated area!) Follow instructions for applying the adhesive for the seals. Put back together in reverse order. Repair successful!
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!