ALG643RAW-PALG643R Amana Dryer - Instructions

discovered it was a broken latch. Ordered the latch, only took 2 days to arrive and all I had to do was remove the broken latch and snap in the new one. I saved myself a service call. I'm very happy!!!!!!

I took out the old worn out part and replaced with the one I order.

removed the bottom panel. then the door. unscrewed the 4 screws, removed duct and replaced. parts came fast and fit just right! no issues at all! I recomend Parts select as an appliance vendor for parts.

Removed power and front panel, removed broken latch, pushed in new latch and replaced the front panel and power. Done

Super easy. 2 screws allows you to remove the access panel. One screw on the igniter bracket removes the igniter. Pull off the 2 wire connectors and plug into the new one. Test the dryer and close the access panel.

First unplug the dryer,then remove the front bottom panel. With your 5/16 nut driver reach to the rear of the vent tube under the dryer and remove the lone screw that holds the tube in place. Lean the dryer forward and remove the tube from the rear of the dryer,this will allow you to see and reach the idler wheel from the front. Release the belt,feel for the clip that holds the wheel in place on the opposite side of the front,with your thumb nail or something else if preferred pry out on one side of the clip until it pops off. Slide the wheel off being careful not to lose the washer,slide the new wheel on and replace the clip. Put the belt back on replace the tube,which is actually the toughest part because you have to find the hole for the lone screw as you can't see it,but with a little patience it is easily enough done. Put the vent hose back on replace the front panel and plug it in and go!!it took me 30 min. Alittle tough to feel for some of the parts,but really much easier than you would think.

The repair looked simple enough until it came time to take the out wheel off. Because you can not hold the motor shaft(and the wheel screws on) it was necessary to remove the whole motor assembly and then grind the out shaft down, then use a small screwdriver to take the remaining shaft off.
I must say it was nice to recieve the part in as fast as I did we live in a very rural area and things like that are very hard to find

First of all I would not have done this if it wasn't for
your website. Using the schematics to figure out
the right parts was easy. It was also helpful in the
actual repair process. I have added your website
to my favorites in my browser. The parts arrived in 3 days and I live in Reno. Great Website.

M.B.

Being my lousy Maytag washer died THE PREVIOUS DAY, spewing water, etc. and I had rushed out and bought a new washer, I was determined not to replace the dryer (though I now am a serious NON_FAN of Maytag).

I disassembled the whole dryer and finally got to the blower wheel which was broken lose from the molded nut. I supposed something like a dime or penny got in there to shred it.

PartSelect's website allowed me to find the part in 5 minutes. It was on my doorstep the next afternoon.

Installation was straightforward BECAUSE I stacked all the screws and and labeled them appropriately. It took about 30 minutes to reassemble and the toughest bit was getting the drum in with the belt positioned properly.

Had to lay dryer on back. Cause it didn't have a back cover had to take the front door off and go in thru the front. Had to take the vent off. Had to use scotch tape to hold the belt in place while I got it on. It would have been a lot easier if they had a back cover. I only hope I don't have to do it again as it squells a bit on start up. Bill

I first removed the front panel and door on the dryer using a 5/16th nut driver. I needed to disconnect the light and switch to remove the door. I raised the top lid of the dryer to expose the drum. I rmover the fan schroud and lint filter by removing 4 5/16 screws with the nut driver. I disconnected the belt from the idle tension pully and removed the drum. The drum support rollers were visible on the back frame of the dryer. I removed the bad roller using snap ring pliers. After cleaning the roller support shaft and lubricating the shaft with grease I replaced the drum support roller and secured it with the snap ring. I also replaced the dryer belt although it was still workiing. I reasembled the dryer after giving the inside a cleaning with the shop vac. The hardest part was getting the belt secured with the tension idle pulley. When assemblying the fan schroud make sure it is snug against the fan so it doesn't leak. Replace the top and front door and cover connecting the switch and light. If you get the switch wires correct the dryer will run with the door shut otherwise reverse the wires.

We received the parts in two days. We installed the new lint duct assembly in about 30 minutes. We unplugged the dryer and lift ed the top of the dryer removed the front of dry we disconnected the wiring and then removed the damaged lint duct . Cleaned the lint off the dryer and replaced the new lint duct. screwed the front back on . Reconnected the wiring clips and put the top back on the dryer. The top of dryer had clips that slid the top back on. Plugged dryer in and it works great.

As it turned out, the felt was only part of the problem. The guide bracket had been cut thru by the drum. This all started when a golf tee got stuck in the drum area. It took very little time to destroy the guide bracket. Dryer was built by Whirlpool. Parts are built to the bare minimum. These appliances are designed to break in a couple of years. There is no doubt about it. I installed the new guide brkt, glued the new felt on and put it all back together. The job is pretty straight forward but you need to be mechanically inclined.

First of all I think this was an assembly issue, cause it was a bit noisy since we bought it, but I dismissed it as a break in noise & it would go away over time, but of course it just got worst ontil it failed....
Anyway 1st thing I did was, stick a standard screwdriver between the top & front, to pop the top off, then used a socket wrench set to remove the 2 screws for the front panel assembly, ( **taking note were what color wire connectors went were 3 for switch "y,g,b" & 2 for light "yb & g"), then used socket wrench set to remove 4 screws for the front bulkhead, ( upon removal I now understood what the noise was all about, the lip of the drum was rubbing against the bulkhead & both cylinder glide brackets, wearing the drum lip & cylinder glide brackets, down to shards of metal, rasor sharp, Both brackets were wore in half & bulkhead damaged ), then I removed the shards from the drum & used the hamer to dull & round a smaller drum lip, then I removed lint trap holder from bulkhead, ( since I had it apart I took it outside & cleaned it with my power jet hose attachment ), then I removed missalined & Damaged cylinder seal, srcapped bulkhead clean with standard screwdriver, applide goop glue to bulkhead & new cylinder seal, then applide new seal & let dry overnite, in the mean time I removed both damaged (the other half), cylinder glide brackets, used the old gliders & pads, ( they were not damaged, " LIKE NEW"???), attached them to the new bracket, then attached the 2 cylinder bracket assemblies to the bulkhead, then I used metal tape (several layers on both sides of bulkhead) to fix the damage caused by the old missalined seal & drum lip.... Then I re-assmembled lint trap holder to bulkhead, & re-assembled bulkhead to dryer, then attached the front, ( see above**), then popped the top into place... Now we have a GOOD QUIET dryer

First we had to virtually take the entire dryer housing apart - not very user friendly. We found that one of the two mounting screws on on of the rollers was gone. The mount was just wobbling around which caused the roller to fail and all of the noise. The wheel removal was a bit tough since there is very little room to pull it up and off of the center post. Definately need at least one helper to pull up on the drum while the wheels are removed and installed. Once the two new rollers were in place, the dryer worked like it was new. Not an easy job, but very do-albe - saved a ton of money doing it myself. Two must - haves: good set of snap ring plyers and one patient helper.