DB5710DT Samsung Dishwasher - Instructions

First I opened the breaker on the dishwasher removing power from the unit. Then I removed the Torx head screws on the cover on the back side of the front door. Then I pulled off the stainless steel sheet metal panel which exposed the door latch. Then I unplugged the electrical connectors to the two micro switches on the assembly, next I plugged in the connectors on the new latch assembly and postioned the latch back on the mounting holes. Replaced the stainless steel sheet metal and put the screws back.

after reading a article on problems the logic one was frist the door. Order the part ,took off the inter panel with star slot (10)exposed the handle and switch. Removed it, abit hard at frist,then replacement went in easy , the washer worked.
I guess I was lucky because on the other side of handle similar type of part thats maytag for you.

Snapped out the old retainer, snapped in the new. Then snapped in the washer arm. Done. Works great.

Very simple! First, free the wheel from the rail - should come right out if the wheel is broken. Then click the wheel base off the small shelf rod by rotating the wheel bse. Then, click the rail end cap off the rail by pressing it through the small square hole in the flat side of the rail. Insert the wheel into the rail, then click the wheel base back onto the shelf rail rod where you took the old one off. Click the rail end cap back on, and you're done!

First I watched the repair video provided at your site. Once I got the right part, it went like a breeze. Just a phillips head screw driver and 5 minutes of my time. Speaking if the right part.... I would suggest that you remove the 'LATCH-DOOR-NO Handle' from your parts list.It only cause confusion in ordering the part I needed, and a loss of several days time in the repair cycle.
All in all, a good repair experience. I would reccommend you to my " Do It Yourself" friends.
Thanks,
Harold L.

The original piece is 100% plastic (with metal shields only to prevent burning). The bushing of the arm was badly worn out in one side. The arm was no turning properly or at the end no turning at all. I decide to drill the new part in order to fit a brass bushing inside (1/4" ID, 5/16" OD, about 2" long). I expect it will last considerable longer. I would say this is a typical "defective by design" problem.

Switch was not the same switch as what was in the unit, similar but switch was normally closed instead of open, so had to take the switch apart and change sides with the contacts! should be the same, but was not, so in the end worked fine after an adjustment!

Very easy to replace the roller. First I removed the stop on the top slide. Then I unsnapped the old roller. The new roller just snapped right in place. Then I put the drawer slide back on.... Took less than 5 minutes.

First, I removed the screw, then I took off the old wash arm, then I replaced the wash arm, and replaced the screw. Nothing could be easier!

I pulled the machine from under the counter top and the striker is right in front just under the insulation. I pullled the insulation back just a little and screwed down the new striker plate. That's all. I moved the machine back uinder the counter and secured it. Done!

Orderd the part's from your web site (recived my order in a timley fasion thanks) the parts just sliped on and clipped' basket rolls great. Mike Schaffer

Very easy after watching the video. thanks

1. remove inside door panel
2. verified the part needed using partselect web site (entire latch assembly).
3. removed connecting wire sockets and replaced part and door (simple process).

I removed the inside door panel, unplugged the old assembly and replaced with the new. The only caveat is that I THOUGHT the unit came WITH a new plastic handle, and it did not. It was very difficult to remove the handle from the old unit, and to install it in the new unit. The description was not adequate. I had read other blogs and they warned of the same missing handle, and I thought I had ordered correctly. The repair is fine, but the old handle is cracked, so I dont know how long it will last.

First I made sure the breaker for the appliance was turned off!

I only had to unscrew all the screws from the inside door.

Next I used pliers to pry the old Latch Assembly (it is all pig tailed so only to plugs to undo).

Next, I snapped the new Latch Assembly into the two sockets.

Screws were replaced and wa la!

Turned breaker on and tested. Easy as pie. Took about 10 minutes from collecting the tools, fixing the problem, and replacing all the tools.

I actually had my 14 year old daughter do it so that she could learn how to make small repairs. This would have easily cost approximately $150 for a repairman to come and fix.

Then we went to the garage and unstuck the valve on the carberator to our '75 Chevy! (it was cold).

Not bad for a couple of girls!