DB5710DT Samsung Dishwasher - Instructions

Tghe old one snaps off and the new one snaps right in .

This was very easy to fix, just pop out the old one and install the new one. I saved $60-$75 on a repairman coming out to fix the thing in 5 minutes. Truly, I received the part from PartSelect in two days after placing the on-line order. We were up and running in between loads.

unwrapped wheels ,pulled out drawer and easily put on new wheels...as we live way out in the boonies it was great to be able to order parts and have them delivered so fast...easy to fix....

Removed the old broken wheel and popped in the new one. The best part of the entire problem was searching this website and finding the part quickly. Granted the shipping was almost double the price of the part, but still under $15. Searching and delivery of the part was fantastic.

The repair was simple. I did a Google search for the part online. PartSelect.com was the 1st site to appear. The link brought me right to the part I was looking for. I order the part (2 just so I would have one down the road in case this happens again) and the next day it was on its way. I simple popped of the old part and installed the new part... works like it is supposed to now. Thanks for the help PartSelect!

Ordered the part easily using model number and schematic on web site. Part came in two days. Unfortunately, they had the right part number but the wrong part was pulled and sent to me. I called and they resolved the issue over the phone and sent me the right part in two days. Part snapped right on in 5 seconds and I was back washing my dishes that evening.

Snapped on new wheels

Stuck new wheel on, time to find and order part on partselect 2 min, time to open package and install part 1 min.

Total job 3min.

Removed plastic lining from dishwasher door with torx screwdriver, then removed screw holding door latch assembly in place. Removed existing switch from door latch assembly and replaced.

This switch was not the correct one initially as it was a normally closed switch, whereas the existing switch was a normally open. Was able to pry open the switch and switch the contacts to normally open so it worked out in the end. Would recommend purchasing the complete latch assembly w/ switches if you aren't comfortable taking the switch apart.

Pulled the dishwasher out. Determined that it was leaking from the air/water inlet. Ordered the seal and replaced the seal by turning the inside cover counter clockwise while holding the outer water inlet. Replaced seal and installed water hose. Put dishwasher back inside cabinet and leveled. If you don't try to fix it yourself, It could cost more then what it is worth.

took the bottom spray arm & lower plastic pieces out, unscrewed the impeller & replaced it. the original impeller which holds the disposal blade down & wore down & no longer retained the blade. snap.

After receiving the seal, I installed it and carefully observed its operation and found the reason why the original one was broken in the first place. For some reason the bottom of the washer where it mates with the seal was deformed and it caused the original seal to suffer stress which led to its being broken, and it may be the reason why I got occasional leakage.

We bought this dishwasher at a %40 discount at a Sears outlet. It was probably returned by the original owner for this reason. Using a rubber mallet I was able to easily beat it back into shape and the new seal now fits like a glove.

But probably the most amazing thing was I was able to easily find the part at PartSelect.com after some googling around. Now I know where to find parts for my dishwasher and perhaps other appliances when the need arises.

The first thing I did was read the all of repair stories that others had submitted. Then I set the timer and chucked up the Torx bit in my electric drill/screwdriver. There are 10 Torx screws on the inside of the dishwasher door and they came out very quickly. The top two screws hold the latch in place. I lifted the inside stainless steel cover to get acces to the latch. There was enough slack in the wire that I was able to remove the latch from where it was and extend it above the door. This let me lay the stainless steel liner back onto the inside of the door without removing or disconnecting the soap dispenser. Thus exposed, disconnecting the connectors from the old latch and reconnecting them to the microswitches on the new latch was a breeze. Once connected, I reinstalled the latch assembly, repositioned the liner correctly and replaced the ten screws. The entire job, including putting my tools away and cleaning up took eight minutes. I did it on my lunch break. The eight minutes included pulling the circuit breaker and reconnecting it (very important, that step). The new latch/handle assembly completely fixed the problem.

disconnected unit (electrical, water, and waste) un mounted from countertop, removed from under countertop, unscrewed hose clamb, cut off wire tie. Attached new hose and wire tie (not included) reversed above steps. Done in about 15 minutes

I turned off the electricity at the circuit breaker. Sitting in a chair in front of the opened dishwasher with the partially opened door resting on my knees, I removed the 10 screws lining the inside of the door (setting them in order on the cabinet above -- 2 are different length so this helps keep them in order.
I tilted the inner cover on the door up (which is what the screws had been holding). With the door not fully open because it was on my knees, I was able to position the cover so that I did not have to remove the connection to the soap dispenser.
The two middle screws removed earlier were the screws that held the latch in place, so the assembly was already loose at this point. I put a black mark on the assembly to mark the side that the black wires were attached. Then with the pliers removed the plugs that were connected to the switches on either side of the assembly. Then marked the replacement assembly with the black mark on the same side as the one removed. I attached the plugs to the the replacement assembly using the black mark as reminder for which side was which.
I lined up the latch on the door where it goes, lowered the lid (lifting the lower edge over the base a little), lined up and started the latch screws (middle 2), then started all of the other screws and then tightened them all. Closed the lid and tested the latch. It was closing correctly now. I turned on the electricity and tested to make sure all was now working properly.