DB3710DB Samsung Dishwasher - Instructions

First I made sure the breaker for the appliance was turned off!

I only had to unscrew all the screws from the inside door.

Next I used pliers to pry the old Latch Assembly (it is all pig tailed so only to plugs to undo).

Next, I snapped the new Latch Assembly into the two sockets.

Screws were replaced and wa la!

Turned breaker on and tested. Easy as pie. Took about 10 minutes from collecting the tools, fixing the problem, and replacing all the tools.

I actually had my 14 year old daughter do it so that she could learn how to make small repairs. This would have easily cost approximately $150 for a repairman to come and fix.

Then we went to the garage and unstuck the valve on the carberator to our '75 Chevy! (it was cold).

Not bad for a couple of girls!

The door wouldn't close and it thought it the sensor was constantly open so it would turn on even if the door was wide open. Took the 10 or so torx screws off and removed the cover. Lifted the old assembly out and had to use pliers to get the wires detached from the door sensors. Attached the sensors to the new assembly, replaced the cover and screws and that was it. very easy fix.

Removed the rack from the dishwasher.
Took off the adjuster from the rack using the allen wrench.
Replaced the new.

Perfect

I have done two repairs, and both times PartSelect.com came to the rescue! The first repair was a few years ago when the dishwasher would run but nothing got wet. It made all the right noises except the sound of water being thrown around, because no water was being pumped! This resulted from a cheap plastic "chopper" assembly that stripped and wouldn't drive the impeller. PartSelect sold me a solid metal replacement part for under $10 and that fixed the problem for several years.

Recently, we had a different problem where the dishwasher completely haulted and the wash motor wouldn't run. This was caused by a faulty impeller, another cheap plastic part. The wash impeller fragmented around the drive shaft to where it sat uneven and thus created too much resistance for the motor to drive it. I removed the impeller, superglued the plastic parts together so that I could then wrap them in copper wire (about 1mm diameter), and then I hot-glued over the copper wrapping to secure the entire thing and to help keep water out of it. I did this so that we could wash dishes while we waited for the new impeller. Well the new impeller came several days early and so far I have just been too lazy to go remove the makeshift part. I figure it will fail sooner or later and then I will install my new part which should give me at least 9 more years of trouble free washing!

The upper arm assembly removes easily by unsnapping a plastic part or two that holds it in place.
Once the arm assembly is removed, you simply remove the screw that holds the arm on, replace the arm, and replace the screw. The key thing here is that you need a "star drive". This is a screw driver or bit that has a star shaped end. I don't know what size it is.

I'm telling this story for my husband who is a pretty handy guy--I watched him do the repair. I had had someone out to look at the dishwasher and they said it would be $284 to fix this one little thing because you couldn't buy the one little part separately, you had to buy a whole new motor. Since the dishwasher is old, it didn't make sense to invest this much in it--might as well buy a new one for that kind of money. My husband did some looking around and found the part on your site and installed it himself. So the cost was under $40. The dishwasher is now working better than it had been for a while.

The plastic wheels on the upper and lower racks keep breaking. The latest casualty was also chewed up by the dog(s). They just pop right on the posts, a simple 2-second fix. I ordered the parts on a Tuesday morning, standard shipping, and they arrived FedEx less than 24 hours later. They came from Peoria, and I live about 1 hour away in Bloomington. Very pleased with the service. Will order from PartsSelect again if I need parts for any other appliance that I can fix myself.

All I had to do was litterally snap the wheels into place..it was so easy and so cheap!

simply pulled out old one slowly inserted new one (stretching slightly) Presto done

I removed the screws around the top and halfway down the sides of the inside of the door. I found that you dont have to remove all 10 screws to access the assembly. Reach in and pulled out the assembly, there was enough slack to pull it out above the door. Pull the connectors off and slide the new ones on. Set the new assembly back in place, insert the 2 top screws first, and then the rest. That was it...very simple to change.

Removed ~12 screws holding the inside liner onto the door. Pulled off the two connectors (one with black and one with white wires). Replace the handle and latch mechanism. Redid connections and replaced screws. Viola. (Be sure to buy BOTH the handle and latch mechanism- I don't see how you could easily install the handle on the mechanism myself, and what broken in my case was the black handle).

Easy! Unscrewed panel, took off old latch, put on new. Took about five minutes.

Removed all the screws holding the inside panel of the door to the door itself. Lifted out the old broken door latch. Pulled the wire clips from the 2 switches located on either side if the door Latch assembly. This is a bit difficult. You have to keep working the wire clips back & forth; Up & down until the clips are free from the switch metal contacts. Reinstall the wire clips on the new door Latch assembly making sure you attach the black wires and white wires on the same side of the new latch assembly as on the one removed. Replace the new latch assembly aligning the mounting holes on the door with the new latch holes. Replace the inside panel aligning the holes and replace the screws. The screws were the star head type so you need a special driver bit. I used the box the latch came in the prop up the inside door panel while I worked.

The repair went easy. Just unscrewed the inside door panel and latch assembly. Then put the new one in. The only bad thing was I purchased the latch assembly with out the handle and found out mine was cracked. I looked back on-line and couldn't find just the handle. Everybody sold it with the latch assembly. I thought I would save the 2 bucks buying the assembly without the handle. But in the end the door seals tight and no water leaks.

first, i removed the inner door panel exposing the latch assembly. i then disconnected the wiring to switches noting their locations. removed and replaced with new latch assembly, connected all wiring back to their corresponding switches, assembled the inner door panel and checked to make sure the latch was working properly.