MDB8601AWS41 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

Docking station just pops out, you grab the right side and pop it off. Replace by placing the left side in place and then push the right side until it snaps in place. VERY easy.

The gaskets were worn out and that was allowing a lot of water to escape, not enough pressure to clean the dishes.

Pull dishwasher about 1/2 out of cabinet. Remembered to turn off power just in time. Removed electrical leads. Hand removed nuts retaining the heating element. Installed new element - hand tightened nuts.

Turn off power to the Dishwasher at your breaker panel.
If you haven't done so, turn off the power to the Dishwasher at your breaker panel.

Using a star-shaped screw bit, remove the perimeter screws around the inner edge of the door panel. Remove the screws connecting the control unit to the control panel.
Detach the cables from the latch assembly by pulling the connectors loose.
Detach the ribbon-cable connecting the control panel to he control unit by gently sliding (prying) the connector on the control unit circuit card.
Attach the new Latch Assy to the new Control Panel with a couple screws previously removed.
Attach the ribbon cable of the new control panel to the control unit by just pushing it in and sliding the connector back together.
Attach the cables back to the Latch Assy.
Clean up the edges of the door while easy to get to.
Use a screw driver to push in on the latch assy (where the machine latches to close the door)
Put the door back in place and replace all the screws.
Close the door and turn on the breaker in your breaker panel.
Try out the dishwasher.
VWHALLA!

The old docking station seals were getting very soft. To put a band aid on the wound until the new docking station got here I put a sleve on the washer bar feeder tube. This made an improvement. The docking station was removed using a screw driver to unsnap the station. Then all I had to do was snap the new one in. Be care ful not to pull on the piece the docking station is snapped on to. There are metal clips behind there that hold that water delivery tube on to the back of the dishwasher. Those clips are twisted on and can be striped off easily by pulling strait towards you. If that happens you must secure the clips using self tapping screws and a water proof sealent.

Remove screws holding the inside of the door. Set lid aside. Pull out the old foam insulation. Clean the area. Replace with new foam insulation. Put door back together.

After disassembling accumulator assembly looking for reasons that washer not washing properly, I noticed accumulator filter had failed. The plastic (or whatever material it is) covering the holes was torn in a couple of different holes. Realizing that this was not the reason for the loss of pressure I investigated a little more and found that water arm going into the docking station was extremely worn with much play. Water pressure was compromised because of it. I replaced filter and docking station and now its like a new dishwasher again. Saved a dishwasher from the landfill!

This site has a great video on how to do this. Just follow that.

I pulled out the dishwasher enough to tip it back and put a block of wood underneath the front leveling foot.
This step gave me more room to work on the valve.
I removed the lower cover plates to expose the valve.
I disconnected the incoming water line and unplugged the electrical connection.
I then unscrewed the bracket to release the valve from the case and took off the rubber hose attached to it.
I installed the rubber hose on the new unit and installed the bracket back in place. I then wrapped some Teflon tape on the threads of the valve fitting and re-installed the water supply line. I re-installed the electrical connection.
I then turned on the water to check for leaks. Once I was certain there were no leaks, I re-installed the lower cover plates and took out the wood block and pushed the dishwasher back into place and re-installed the screws that held it in place.
I then ran a load of dishes to make sure everything was working properly.

Dishwasher is in our summer cabin in Colorado so everything has to be drained for the winter. Not really sure whether this leak was freeze caused or that the valve was just old. Couldn't find a crack when I got the old one apart; might have been just an O ring needed. Anyway, just follow the video provided by this site for replacement of the valve; really easy. Biggest hassle for us was getting the dishwasher out (and back in) as it was wrapped in insulation which made the fit really tight. Thought I had everything I needed when I started but didn't have teflon tape which is needed for the brass fitting connecting the water supply to the valve (fitting is in your old valve and will be reused with the new one).

The repair went easy. Just unscrewed the inside door panel and latch assembly. Then put the new one in. The only bad thing was I purchased the latch assembly with out the handle and found out mine was cracked. I looked back on-line and couldn't find just the handle. Everybody sold it with the latch assembly. I thought I would save the 2 bucks buying the assembly without the handle. But in the end the door seals tight and no water leaks.

I followed the instructions here on PartSelect to dismantle and put the new impeller in to place. Could tell the difference just in sound alone once it was running.

Remove the screws , opened door panel. Removed switch with latch and replaced with new parts. Replaced panel and screws. Install completed.

Easy! Unscrewed panel, took off old latch, put on new. Took about five minutes.

The repair was actually easy. The difficulty was in correctly assigning blame to either the control panel (the old one still works) or the control board (the old one had indeed failed).

Not all of the the part suppliers are clear on how to determine the part series (10, 11, 18, or 19) from the DW serial number.

I have now been running a new Series 19 control board with a new Series 10 Control Panel for almost a week. with no issues.

Removed all the screws holding the inside panel of the door to the door itself. Lifted out the old broken door latch. Pulled the wire clips from the 2 switches located on either side if the door Latch assembly. This is a bit difficult. You have to keep working the wire clips back & forth; Up & down until the clips are free from the switch metal contacts. Reinstall the wire clips on the new door Latch assembly making sure you attach the black wires and white wires on the same side of the new latch assembly as on the one removed. Replace the new latch assembly aligning the mounting holes on the door with the new latch holes. Replace the inside panel aligning the holes and replace the screws. The screws were the star head type so you need a special driver bit. I used the box the latch came in the prop up the inside door panel while I worked.