MDB8601AWS41 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

Shut off the electricity to the dishwasher. I removed all 11 screws from the door panel. After separating the 2 door panels, I removed the 2 door switches from the door handle ( I used a flat head screw driver to help get them out). Then I unplugged the 2 switches and plugged in the new ones. I replaced the door switches into the door handle ( this was not an exact fit because the new switches is slightly larger than the old ones). I put the new switches in place as tight as I could in the handle. I screwed the 2 screws holding the handle first to secure it before I put all the other screws in the door panel. I turned the electricity to the dishwasher back on. Our dishwasher has been working perfect ever since then and it is over 10 years old.

Pulled out the old one and put in the new one!

replaced rack

I watched a couple of videos on Youtube, and for once it was actually easier than anticipated. Unplug unit. Remove door screws. Separate inner door from outer door. Remove connector from dispenser (needed flat blade screwdriver to pry it at first.) Remove six screws holder dispenser in. Removed old dispenser, inserted new one, tightened six screws, re-connected wires, attached inner door to outer door, and was done in literally less than 10 minutes. Note: I was using a battery powered screw driver to remove the screws, so that's one reason why it went so fast.

Ordered part. (Part was larger than the original . That is it dis not fir int supports tha same as rhe original. Hut i modifird the support by assin copper wire to fanten the heater to the supports.) The instalation was no pronlem with a little engineering. Works like a charm, Wife Happy Most important result.
Elmer

Removed all of the screws holding the door assembly together. Removed controller cover to access the ribbon cable. Slipped the ribbon cable out of it's connector. Removed the control panel assembly. Installed a new latch handle in the new control panel assembly. Re-assembled the door, being careful to route the wires correctly and place the latch in proper position. Installed all of the screws about half tight. Tighten all the screws bringing the door assembly together a little at the time to prevent warping. Done.

Removed two screws at the top of the base washer. Three screws removed down both sides of the base washer. Lifted washer out enough to see the cable and spring connections. Removed cable and replaced with new and re-connected. Slid washer back into position and installed screws.

I removed the main plastic bolt with a pliers and then just used a screwgun with a star tip for all the screws.
I am a 43 year old woman with no experience and I was able to figure it out. The machine cleans much better now.

Very simple repair. First I removed all the screws on the inner door cover and then the screws holding the control panel to the door. I also had to remove the CPU to get it out of the way (two screws) to access the contact for the ribbon connector . When I pulled the contact for the ribbon conector away from the old panel, the small plastic sleeve holding it to its receptor came loose. I was worried I had ruined the receptor but it was a simple matter to insert the ribbon into the receptor and slide the sleeve over it to secure it. In a few minutes I put everything back together and Voila! Everything works like a charm. One estimate was $150 minimum to come out to the house, let alone the cost of the part. I saved myself a bundle, restored my male esteem and am anxious to have my next appliance break down so I can fix it.

I removed the inside door panel, unplugged the old assembly and replaced with the new. The only caveat is that I THOUGHT the unit came WITH a new plastic handle, and it did not. It was very difficult to remove the handle from the old unit, and to install it in the new unit. The description was not adequate. I had read other blogs and they warned of the same missing handle, and I thought I had ordered correctly. The repair is fine, but the old handle is cracked, so I dont know how long it will last.

First I made sure the breaker for the appliance was turned off!

I only had to unscrew all the screws from the inside door.

Next I used pliers to pry the old Latch Assembly (it is all pig tailed so only to plugs to undo).

Next, I snapped the new Latch Assembly into the two sockets.

Screws were replaced and wa la!

Turned breaker on and tested. Easy as pie. Took about 10 minutes from collecting the tools, fixing the problem, and replacing all the tools.

I actually had my 14 year old daughter do it so that she could learn how to make small repairs. This would have easily cost approximately $150 for a repairman to come and fix.

Then we went to the garage and unstuck the valve on the carberator to our '75 Chevy! (it was cold).

Not bad for a couple of girls!

1. remove inside door panel
2. verified the part needed using partselect web site (entire latch assembly).
3. removed connecting wire sockets and replaced part and door (simple process).

Remove screws holding the existing white panel. Once that panel was loose, there are several screws internally that have to be taken out in order to fully remove the panel. The new panel is then installed by putting it in place and reinserting the screws. It is an easy"fix" to change the DW to match other stainless steel appliances. You do need to be careful to make sure the door springs stay attached.

Removed the rack from the dishwasher.
Took off the adjuster from the rack using the allen wrench.
Replaced the new.

Perfect

The door wouldn't close and it thought it the sensor was constantly open so it would turn on even if the door was wide open. Took the 10 or so torx screws off and removed the cover. Lifted the old assembly out and had to use pliers to get the wires detached from the door sensors. Attached the sensors to the new assembly, replaced the cover and screws and that was it. very easy fix.