KDTM804EBS1 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

Pushed to be into place

Pulled the dishwasher out and took the two door balance links off and put the new ones on and attached to the spring. It was very quick and easy

Removing and installing the new part was fairly simple. We removed the water hose first since it is the easiest to see. We then removed the screw holding the part to the metal frame. We slid out the part out of the holder to remove the black hose and electric plug (it is like the old phone jacks). After it was completely off we plugged in the electric to the new part which was very easy since it can only go in one way. We slid the new part in place and attached the black hose. We attached the piece to the frame with the one screw and last we attached the gold (garden hose) connection. We turned on the water to look for any leaks then turned the power on and ran it through a partial rinse to be sure there were no leaks.

Remove power source, then remove old power cord.Run new power cord through existing opening ang attach to existing power box on bottom o f dishwasher. Install electrical leads and device ground. Reinstall cabinet bottom. Check out operation by running a cycle. All ok!

Shut off power to dishwasher.Pulled dishwasher half way out from cabinet, careful not to disconnect waterline, drain-line, and electrical connections. Replaced roller assemblies and connected new door balance links to springs as shown in the great video featured on your website. Thank you for the great pricing, speedy service, and the install instructions. I am happy!

Step 1. Cut off water supply. Step 2. Remove two screws from bottom plate to remove the plate. Step 3. Check that drain line and power supply have enough slack to move the unit out from under the cabinet. Step 4. Remove two screws from top frame that secure the unit to the cabinet framing (note my counter-top is granite so framing goes across the top of the unit; so units are secured directly to the countertop). Step 5. Disconnect water supply line and place something, i.e., a plate, old towel, etc. to catch excess water in the supply line. Step 6. Lower leveling feet to provide clearance to remove the unit. Step 7. Pull unit carefully from under cabinet to access both sides so Door Balance Link Kit is accessible, checking for tension on drain line and power supply line (see Step 3.) as you are pulling out the unit. Step 8. Remove broken Door Balance Link Kit (pay attention to how the rope is positioned around the pulleys; using your phone to take a picture before you disassemble the kit is a good idea). Note-the replacement kit is different in design/appearance (not function) from the OEM part. This should be clearly stated in the "Description" paperwork accompanying the part but it is not. Step 9. Install the new Door Balance Link Kit exactly as the replaced one. It is important to note that there was no spring tension when the broken part was removed so re-attaching the part with the spring attached takes some strength because of the tension. I recently (9 weeks ago) had two brain surgeries; my right arm was paralyzed following the second surgery. Although I am recovering fine, I have not gained my hand strength back completely. I used a screwdriver to stretch the spring back to the attachment point which allowed me to slip the spring into the hole. If you have to use this method or a similar technique, use extreme caution. The spring is strong and if it slips could cause an injury or damage. I strongly suggest that while the unit is out that you replace the other (non-damaged) Door Balance Link Kit. It's had the same wear as the broken and its likely to break soon. Again, if you have the hand strength to remove the spring by stretching it to disconnect it, that is the best approach. But, if you do not have the hand strength, simply take a pair of channel-locks, grasp the end of the spring to stretch the spring to remove tension on the rope and hold it while cutting the rope. Release the tension on the spring and repeat steps 8 & 9 to install the second kit. Step 10. Move the unit back into position to attach the water supply line and then attach the water supply line. Step 11. Carefully reposition the unit back into place checking to make sure the water line, drain line, and power supply are not crimped. Step 12. Once in position, use leveling feet to raise the unit to its proper height while checking to make sure it is square/level. Step 13. Replace the screws removed in Step 4. Step 14. Run the machine through a quick wash before replacing the bottom plate to verify there are no water leaks, crimped hoses, etc. Step 15. Replace the bottom plate (see Step 2.).

Get a piece of stiff wire (medal close hanger) cut a Short piece and take a tool and roll a half circle on each end making the link length you need then attach the lanyard to the spring

I watched my son as he pulled dishwasher out part way. The space was a little tight, but he did a fine job of replacing with a new string.

repaired exactly as your video described......hardest part it getting unit out from under cabinet and back in.

Remove two screws then the two toe-panels. Use a flashlight to locate spring and the hole in the metal frame near back of unit about an inch off the floor. Look at opposite side of unit to see how the working link is routed. Place correct end of the link over one end of the spring and wrap a piece of tape around nylon clip and spring end (just to save frustration of having it fall off while you attempt to complete this task). Tie a loop in the end of each end of the piece of string you supplied. Loop one loop around the spring end with the link clip and feed the other end of the strings loop out the front of the dishwasher at the bottom near the lowermost pulley. Reach under the dishwasher and hook the spring to the frame. Keep tension on the string and feed the link cord out the front of the dishwasher near the front bottom near the lowermost pulley. Loop the exposed end of the self-supplied string around the center of the flashlight handle. Have an assistant pull firmly on the flashlight/string stretching the spring (not too much to over-stretch the spring, but give yourself a little slack too). Serpentine the link cord around the two nylon pulleys. Make sure the rope side of the link clip is toward the back of the dishwasher. Place the link nylon clip over the metal door lever and into the appropriate slot. Have your assistant slowly release tension on the spring/string. Reach under the dishwasher and remove the looped string from the spring end and remove the string. Replace the toe-panels. I did the right side this way, the left side is up against a wall and I might have had additional problems, but it is hard to say since I did not replace the left link. I thought this easier than removing the dishwasher, inlet and outlet as I have done that several times and it can be a pain as well. Good luck!

last time this piece broke, I called a tech and $150 to fix. I am not much of a do-it-yourselfer, but this was very easy. Removed to screws. I then pulled out dishawasher from cabinet. Removed plastic piece, replaced part, pushed dishwasher back and put in screws.

Easy, easy, easy. Appliances use to be built with metal parts that did not break as often.

Started with some disassembly of the door to observe the electronics first. Hoped to find a fuse I could replace. No luck. Found the circuit board underneath just above the floor behind the kick plate. Ordered the new circuit board from part select.
Regular shipping means we had to hand wash for several days. Didn't want to take off the door or remove the unit from the cabinet which made the replacement process a bit tight. Removed one nut to move the power junction box out of the way, and two more to lower the metal box that supports the circuit panel. Learned that I could have removed it by sliding it to the left about an inch, but couldn't see how it was attached. Plug and play circuit board had about 8 connections. Disconnected the old one, reconnected the new one and snapped it into place. Put the metal support box back in, then slid the panel into support then to the right until it locked. Put the power junction box back and then the kick plate. Turned on the breaker. Fixed. Paid about $160 for the part i think. Glad they had the part I needed for this unit. If I had to do it again, would need just about 5 minutes to complete now that I know the steps. Pretty simple.
Also tightened the door handle from behind while I had it all apart. Loose handle had been annoying. Unit works like new.

Ordered the part. Called my son who brought over his toolkit. Played him the repair video on my iPad and he replaced both Door Balance Links. Door works great now.

We pulled the unit out and were able to easily see where it broke. We replaced it relatively easy, pushed dishwasher back in; however, somehow the pump seal got broken in the process so now we have to replace the pump. This was totally unrelated to this repair - only can assume it happened when we pushed the unit back into place.

Fairly easy. Undid the two screws on the kick plate. Then used pliers to undo the leveling legs and pulled the dishwasher out from under the cabinet. The dishwasher is hard-wired with extra electric cable. The drainage tube is flexible and there is extra so I did not have to worry about disconnecting anything. I then attached the new door cable link to the spring. Using the Needle-nosed Vise Grips I pulled the cable so I had enough to make the connection on the door piece. Done. Then I put everything back.