KDTM804EBS1 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

Pulled the dishwasher out and took the two door balance links off and put the new ones on and attached to the spring. It was very quick and easy

Easy. Part just snapped in and took all of about a minute. Now the top rack doe snot slide back and forth.

Removing and installing the new part was fairly simple. We removed the water hose first since it is the easiest to see. We then removed the screw holding the part to the metal frame. We slid out the part out of the holder to remove the black hose and electric plug (it is like the old phone jacks). After it was completely off we plugged in the electric to the new part which was very easy since it can only go in one way. We slid the new part in place and attached the black hose. We attached the piece to the frame with the one screw and last we attached the gold (garden hose) connection. We turned on the water to look for any leaks then turned the power on and ran it through a partial rinse to be sure there were no leaks.

Pushed to be into place

I'm the maintenance supervisor at an apartment complex. While installing a new dishwasher for a tenant, I inadvertently cross-threaded the swivel connector to the fill valve. The valve was ruined and couldn't be repaired. I ordered a new valve (it was an OEM) and installed it. Simple switch out, plus the video from Parts Select showed I had done it right.

Started with some disassembly of the door to observe the electronics first. Hoped to find a fuse I could replace. No luck. Found the circuit board underneath just above the floor behind the kick plate. Ordered the new circuit board from part select.
Regular shipping means we had to hand wash for several days. Didn't want to take off the door or remove the unit from the cabinet which made the replacement process a bit tight. Removed one nut to move the power junction box out of the way, and two more to lower the metal box that supports the circuit panel. Learned that I could have removed it by sliding it to the left about an inch, but couldn't see how it was attached. Plug and play circuit board had about 8 connections. Disconnected the old one, reconnected the new one and snapped it into place. Put the metal support box back in, then slid the panel into support then to the right until it locked. Put the power junction box back and then the kick plate. Turned on the breaker. Fixed. Paid about $160 for the part i think. Glad they had the part I needed for this unit. If I had to do it again, would need just about 5 minutes to complete now that I know the steps. Pretty simple.
Also tightened the door handle from behind while I had it all apart. Loose handle had been annoying. Unit works like new.

based on advice here, concluded the problem was likely that the part "Valve-Inlt" was defective. Our dishwasher intake line is copper and had already developed a partial kink from sometime in the past, so I had to be careful. The final connection to the new part had to happen in place: very close to the floor and underneath, because I didn’t want to stress the copper line. Plus, the shutoff was defective, and it was always leaking while I connected. Awkward. As I was threading on, it started to look like it might be cross-threaded, so I stopped and reversed. Slid the washer back out and disconnected the drain line so I could tip the dishwasher u and inspect. It was going on cross-threaded. Not hard to happen on a metal to a plastic connection. To solve, I carefully made very small bends in the copper inlet line until when it would later be brought up underneath to connect to the inlet valve, it would be as perfectly aligned as possible. This worked. As I tightened, it went a little easier and the leak stopped. A good moment. Tightened a bit more, but didn’t want to overdo it as that can cause other problems. Now the moment of truth: let’s run it. DISHWASHER WORKED AGAIN. Runs fine now and we are glad to have it back. Was satisfying I could do this on my own. The advice and guides here made that possible. Thank you.

My 2 yr old sat on the dishwasher door while it was open. It snapped both the links on the door causing the dishwasher door to drop every time it was ajar. It was a real danger to the kids or to anyone else unaware of the door given its weight.

I ordered the part from Part Select based model and some of the posts that it was something you can do yourself. Park Select was outstanding as got the part next day and got direction from others (thank you). I did not have either side of the door working so no real gauge but finally understood how it worked once I did a search online for a picture.

Recommendation: if both links (rope) are broken, you will need to hunt down the springs on side/back of machine. The part with small hole connects to the spring, the other to the door. Make a reverse S with the rope through the pully system for tention. I did not initially do the reverse S and the part popped of the door once I closed it. Otherwise, easy thing to do and certainly do not need a repair person.....if you need picture, do a search on dishwasher door pully system

The 2 parts snap together .

1st pull dishwasher out. attach the new cable to the spring. reinstall the spring on the frame. Use pliers to pull slack in the cable to attach the cable to the door. The hardest thing about the install was putting the screws in the side of the dishwasher to the cabinets.

We pulled the unit out and were able to easily see where it broke. We replaced it relatively easy, pushed dishwasher back in; however, somehow the pump seal got broken in the process so now we have to replace the pump. This was totally unrelated to this repair - only can assume it happened when we pushed the unit back into place.

last time this piece broke, I called a tech and $150 to fix. I am not much of a do-it-yourselfer, but this was very easy. Removed to screws. I then pulled out dishawasher from cabinet. Removed plastic piece, replaced part, pushed dishwasher back and put in screws.

Easy, easy, easy. Appliances use to be built with metal parts that did not break as often.

Received the part. No instructions came with it. Luckily it was pretty simple to figure out. i removed the appliance from under the counter, saw how the part was attached on the other side and simply replaced the other side that was broken. Easy.

The repair itself was relatively easy. I basically only had to remove the two screws that were securing the diswasher to the cabinetry, disconnected the water line and extended the diswasher out approximately 10 inches. I then replaced the part by hooking the new cable assembly to the spring and using pliers expanded the spring so I could snake the other end of the cable through the pulleys and attach it to the door. The otherside was my guide. This part should be modified to replace the two plastic ends with metal counterparts. This would allow the part to have a longer life especially in my case since the plastic end broke and not the cable itself.

Removed the bottom cover plates.
Removed the screws holding in the dishwasher.
Removed old single moving roller and replaced with newly designed double rollers.
Installed link(string).
Replaced other side rollers and link.
Reinstalled dishwaser.