KUDK01TKWH1 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

Looked at other side of top rack which still had the stop. Just had to orient the direction of the stop and push it firmly onto the rack arm. Took a couple tries, but it went in and locked. Works perfectly. Inexpensive and easy fix to to very annoying problem.

After pulling the dishwasher out from under the cabinet, I found it underneath near the back right side. I disconnected the old thermostat, unscrewed the clamp holding it into place, put the new thermostat in, screwed it back in and replaced the two plugs. Then I pushed the dishwasher back into place, and it initially didn't work until I found an online forum that was able to identify the reset command for my dishwasher (for the WDT710PAYM4, press any three buttons in a sequence of 1 2 3 1 2 3 1 2 3. After completing that all the lights lit up, and I shut the door leaving it for half an hour) Once the reset finished, the heated dry worked like it was suppose to.

A Mouse friend had seen fit to chew through the original drain line. I used my Model Number, and was able to order the correct part . It arrived the next day. The job itself is fairly straight forward. You will need to access the rear of the machine. This may include shutting off, and disconnecting the water supply line. (Adjustable wrench). Mine is under the sink, on the "Hot" side. You may also need to un-plug the unit. (recommended) . A pair of (Pliers) will be needed for the spring clamp.

The old tine row came out easily and the new one was easy to pop into place. I was pleased that it was so easy to order a replacement part.

The repair would have been really easy if the parts replaced had come all in one...When you order a replacement handle they do not include the 2 small springs....
the springs are a bit hard to get on, but once they were in place everything went well. You need 2 people to assemble it.
One to hold the door and the guts of the electronics, and the other to install the handle.

Pulled front panel and replaced door switch. Extremely easy but did not fix the problem.

Unplug dishwasher and slide it out from under cabinet. Remove old broken link (a heavy string between two plastic parts) and replace with new one. Slide dishwasher back and plug it in. Very easy and no tools required.

The part snaps on using two plastic retainers (included). You have to pull down gently on the feed tube at the top of the dishwasher to set the top retainer. After that it's a piece of cake.

I removed the old seal and carefully cleaned the track into which the seal was fixed. No tools other than some ordinary cleaning liquid, cloth and small wooden piece to swab out the track. Easy and quick. As a note here, I first used the incorrect schematic for the unit and ordered the wrong seal. However after receiving the wrong part, I made the correction and reordered. I did this over the phone as I needed instructions to return the part. The person taking my order and answering my questions was very helpful and I want to take this opportunity to thank her.

Removed required hardware and dishwasher from undercounter mount. Turned dishwasher on its front and removed the old motor. Installed the new motor and tested for function. Installed once test was successful.

Remove and replace solinoid, remove and replace mico switch. These are the only two electrically controlled devieces controling water flow. Replacing switch without replacing housing takes a soft touch. A small screw driver helps. Electrical connections have a stay in place nipple. Plyers help get thoes off.

Parts delivered as promised, correct fit. Phone contact available at order question.

Would used this site again.

grade 3.5 A=4

Just removed the old seal and followed the instructions that came with the new one. Since the old one didn't have any adhesive on it ,I didn't use the adhesice on the new one. Problem solved!

I took the unit apart to find out what was making the loud noise and found the seal on the main pump had been leaking ito the bearing on the motor.

1. do not order or buy anything before examining the tension nut and washer. 2. Unplug the unit. 3. Open the switch box before trying to remove the float. Two types; easiest is pin based and lifts out easily. If the float catches, it likely has a headed bottom and needs an assist to lift past the stop flanges. 3. Using a standard ohmmeter, check for continuity. If it checks no need to replace. 4. Check float and assembly for abnormalities; cracks, lime deposits, etc. 5. Now decide what needs replacing. Did all my work with relative ease without pulling out the appliance. A couple sequences may need realigned.

Removed old rack and and removed old rollers and installed old rollers on new rack as they work better than the new rollers sent with new rack