KUDS24SEWH3 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

Bottom wash arm bearing and seal were severely worn and leaking. Replaced in about one minute with new parts from PartSelect.com, and took the opportunity to clean out the arm -- stringy, fibrous matter was clogging two jets.

Top arm horizontal rubber supply tube was disintegrating and leaked. Replace with Spray Arm Kit -- this took maybe two minutes!

Lastly, two to of the upper right-rear folding rack tine clips were broken -- replacement was difficult as the old, broken clips were very stiff and came off only after much physical persuasion! New clips were installed easitly -- in a "snap". Time ~ 5 minutes.

Best of all, the new parts were delivered to my home within 36 hours of my internet order. I thought the prices were fair, too. Thanks.

I first removed the old part. when i removed the old part i could not get the conector piece off when i when to get a new one they told me i should replace the copper tubing with the more flexable tubing because the copper tubing can kink up and possibly break from the kinking. so i screwed the inlet valve on i put teflon tape on the all the threads of the conector piece screwed it into the new inlet valve with and adjustable wrench then i conected the new tubing, and tightend it down with the wrench i slowly turned the water back on to cheak for leaks. When i saw there were no leaks i turned the water on the rest of the way pushed the dishwasher back in and screwed it into place an i was done.

First remove front panel of dishwasher. Held on by 2 screws on bottom of panel. Remove the electrical connections from the dispenser. Remove the six screws on the dispenser and remove dispenser. Reverse steps to install new dispenser. Also remove rinse aid sensor from old dispenser and install in the new dispenser.

Removed inside cover and inserted new handle on two tabs and attached latch. Slightly tricky to get 3 pieces in place and reattach cover without them moving.

After pulling the dishwasher out from under the cabinet, I found it underneath near the back right side. I disconnected the old thermostat, unscrewed the clamp holding it into place, put the new thermostat in, screwed it back in and replaced the two plugs. Then I pushed the dishwasher back into place, and it initially didn't work until I found an online forum that was able to identify the reset command for my dishwasher (for the WDT710PAYM4, press any three buttons in a sequence of 1 2 3 1 2 3 1 2 3. After completing that all the lights lit up, and I shut the door leaving it for half an hour) Once the reset finished, the heated dry worked like it was suppose to.

This was my third attempt at fixing the problem. First I tried the bushing under the lower spray arm. This worked for me a few years ago but not this time. I then replaced the door gasket with no luck. I just discovered another bushing that has worn paper thin between the lower spray arm and the nut that holds it. I ordered it and hopefully that will do the trick. I read that if the spray arm wobbles it creates waves in the tub that slop over the edge.

first I removed lower basket. then removed lower sprayer attached to pump housing by unscrewing the cap by hand. the I removed the pump cover . there were six alan screw two of them were missing causing the failure of the seal spraying solution at the door. replaced the pumpseal working backwards until everthing was replaced.

Removed the rest of the broken retainer plug. Part number was on the top of the plug. Went to Partselect.com looked up the part and ordered it. The right part (important) arrived in a few days. I put the arm back in place, screwed in the new retainer plug and we were back in business. Cost of part about $5.00. Price of not having to share in cleaning the dishes, priceless. Any future problems with any of my appliances, this is the first place I'll look for the needed part.

I wish I knew a couple of things before doing this repair. 1) As you take off the panel, remove slowly and pay close attention to how the latching mechanism and spring works, 2) The mylar cover over all of the buttons (the panel that say s "Kitchenaid Superba, on, off, etc) does not come with the panel and costs $45 more. I was determined to save it. I used a flat Xactor blade to separate it from the broken control panel. As careful as I tried to be, I cut it a few times. Had I known I was dealing with a contact cement, I would have known to get it started and slowly peel it off. It will readhere to the new control panel without new adhesive. I replaced the vinyl waterproof cover for the circuit board, and installed the latching mechanism and spring. I positioned the new panel and screwed in the four screws. It works fine.

Pulled off the old valve using a crescent wrench and screw driver. The replacement part was a 100% exact match. Slapped on the new valve and that baby was water tight. $50 on a new valve is a lot better than $500 for a new washer.

Partselect.com was so easy to use and find the right part. Way more helpful than whirlpool's site, but that's not surprising seeing as they have an "authorized repair technician" page.

Thanks Partselect.com!

actually my wife did the repair. she unsrewed the water sprayer and removed it, then unscrewd the star key screws and then replaced the seal. she put everything back the way it was and it is now ready to use and we no longer have the problem.
just a suggestion...if you take some baking soda and some vinager you can clean the drain out. just simply poor in the soda and then the vinager.and it will fiz cleaning your drain.

Removed one screw to get the spray arm off the rack, one other screw to disassembly the spray arm assembly. Replaced worn and damaged parts. Installation was reverse order of disassembly.

There were two somewhat difficult parts: identifying the correct clip (first time I got it wrong and had to reorder), and attaching the new clips in the proper orientation without breaking them.

The correct clips have a snap-in feature to hold a wire fence upright. Two tines of the fence snap into the clip, which attaches to the lateral wires in the upper basket.

To remove the broken clips, I pressed the flat blade of a large screwdriver against the open side of each, noting which wire each came from. I measured the distance between the two wires for the next step.

To install the new clips, I first attached them to the moveable fence. This is because (1) the clip has extremely complex geometery and it took a while to figure how it should be installed (I had no model because the old clips were completely destroyed) and (2) the notch for the fence is quite rigid on one side, and quite delicate on the other, and it took a bit of force to get the the thick bottom wire of the fence to seat properly without breaking the delicate part of the clip. There is no way to put the fence into the clip if you have first installed it onto the wire basket without breaking the clip because the beefy side is not flexible. I used the flat blade of the screwdriver on the beefy side and pinched the bottom of the fence into it with my thumb.

Each clip must straddle one of the tines of the fence, so the tine can swivel into the upper part of the clip to stand upright. This is definitiely a spatial relationship challenge and it took a few minutes of trial, error, and visualization to figure out. You must also be sure that the tines you select correspond to the distance between the two locations on the wire basket where they will attach.

Once the clips were on the fence, I rotated the fence so that the tines locked. Then I attached the clips to the basket, using the flat of the screwdriver blade and a steady pressure to snap it on.

I simply unscrewed the remainder of the wash arm retainer nut, removed the wash arm bearing ring and spray arm bearing ring and replaced them; No tools were required. At the same time I decided to replaced the upper wash arm with a kit from Part Select. This did require the use of a philips head screwdriver. The job was real easy and accomplished within 1 hour.

replaced spray arm, but this did not resolve the problem. The troubleshooting guid (inside kick panel) indicated the check valve may be stuck. We had quite a bit of lime build up, so I suspected the loose deposits may be stuck. I removed all of the deposits, disassembled the lower unit.
Removed lower spray arm, removed spry tube. The tube is two pieces. first the upper portion must be removed (two screws-place towel on base of tub to preven screws from falling into the chopper area), and then the lower portion simply rotates clockwise 1/8 of a turn. The attachment for lower spray arm has a small plastic bearing, careful not to drop it.
The dishwaser then had to be pulled out and turned on the side. I removed the entire lower unit by removing the white tabs (3). Careful, because the unit is now free to drop into the tub. Next I removed the pump. This is tricky as you have to remove the aluminimum bracket to get to the mountin bolt. The bolt turns out easily w/socket and extension. The pump motor is then rotated counter clockwise, and pulled from the pump. Takes a little force as the gasket makes for a tight fit.
I then removed the choper / pump unit from the basin. The build up behind the chopper screen was extensive, so I had to remove the screen and then the chopper cover. After cleaning, the check valve was unplugged and I reassembled the unit.

Dishwasher works great now.