66516517990 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

I screwed the rack mount to the spindle using
the extra screw I ordered. I removed the upper dishrack's front stops and slid the rack
out. I clamped the mount to the dishrack. I screwed the rotor to the spindle with the screw that came with the rotor kit. I slipped the feed tube mount over the end of the tube and clamped it on the dishrack. I replaced the rack in the slides and replaced the front stops.

I had a hard time driving the screws. The slots are crossed but do not seem to be standard Phillips. The screws were hard to drive into the holes in the hard plastic. Before I could drive the mount screw all the way, the slot was too stripped to use.

New gasket did not fix problem. Cleaned air vent cover for steam to exit. Gasket not the problem but new one looks good. thank you

door gasket old the vent was pluged up full of black slime cleaned out and door stopped leaking

replaced those parts... but lingering doubts about adequacy of water supply due to sediment primarily from old iron pipes, evidenced in faucet aerator. So I added a Rusco hot water sediment trap filter to the supply line leading to the dishwasher and faucet, along with a new flex supply line to the dishwasher. Water supply seems improved, and any potential sediment will be caught by the trap.The time, tools, and complexity of adding the hot water sediment filter are not covered in the above.

I guess some food got caught in the water level sense float and caused it to mal function.
In the diagnosis process, I removed the arm to clean out any debree in the strainer ( found broken glass). I also found that the two rings mentioned above were worn. I replaced them and all is well.
Thank you for fast response with the replacement parts.

Removed inner panel of the door.
About 8 screws Torquex headed.
Removed cover over electronics.
Unplugged the ribbon cable that attaches control panel to circuit board.
Removed control panel screws, phillips headed.
Removed panel, replaced with new, replaced screws, re-connected the ribbon cable and re-install cover and inner panel.

The part I received from Parts Select fit perfectly, look identical to the original and the dishwashers works as if brand new.
Very happy I used Parts Select

I went back to the web site to make sure I'd ordered the right part.?? looked at the diagram and then watched your little video.?? He had the part hooked opposite of what was shown. (The arm wouldn't rotate) So I turned it arround. While he was still??. It took me less that 5 min and the dishwasher is working Great.????

I put the bearing ring on the washer arm and then screwed on the retainer nut.
Easy to order the needed parts

Easy fix. It’s a screw on by hand piece.

I follow the video and it was easy thanks! you save me money and my old dishwasher Timmy S. GA

Pulled dishwasher out from counter. Took cover off and replaced door springs.

The nut had broken off even with the top of the threaded area, so we had to remove that broken part. We did so by using small pliers and inserting them in the opening and held them in a spreaded position while turning the broken piece out. We replaced the three new parts and put it back together and it works fine. So easy and much cheaper that having a repairman come in. Took us less than 15 minutes.

Easily installed the hose and replaced the middle spray arm with the help of my brother the savior! Lol. It was very easy for him to install.

This spinner is attached to a plastic module PN WP3379369 which is held in place by two screws to the top of the dishwasher. I was able to temporarily reattach the spinner by using a hot soldering iron to melt the nylon axle that goes through the spinner. By using a very small metal washer placed on top of the spinner I was able to melt enough off the end of the nylon axle so as to keep the spinner in place and still be able to rotate. By far the most difficult part of this repair is removing the two stops that prevent the upper washer rack being removed from the machine. Doing so requires using a pair of long nosed pliers and taking note of what needs to be squeezed. Even if installing a new part the upper rack needs to be removed in order to get access to this central part.

First, I removed the tines which were still connected to the top rack by the unbroken parts of 3 clips. (The part of the clip which is subject to breakage is the top, where it allows the tines to be clipped up or released and laid down.) I left the broken clips on the rack as a guide to where to install the new ones. I then attached the new clips to the tines, which is like assembling a puzzle. It would be helpful to replace one clip before all 3 break, so you have an illustration, but it's fairly easy to figure out how to attach the clip as long as you realize the tines need to be released and folded down, or clipped in the up position. With all 3 clips attached to the tines, simply pop the broken clips off the rack and attach the tines to the rack with the new clips. I appreciate the advice from the users who warned against breaking the clips with a tool. It's not really necessary to soak them in hot water. My advice is to use only fingers for installation. Brute force is not necessary... just position and pinch.