66513929K014 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Turned water off. Removed dishwasher from under the counter, replaced hose, reinstalled dishwasher under the counter.

cut power to dishwasher. removed screws all around door panel to get front panel off, leaving top two screws for last. unplugged latch set, removed it. set new one in. screwed top 2 screws in. fit door panel back on. pulled out latch hook from stationary top piece and clicked new on in place.

I replaced the thermostat (part # PS11750035) along with the heating element (part # PS9494999) and the turbidity sensor (part # PS11757214). I also checked the filter (part # PS11759673) and it was very clean with no holes. The dishwasher still has water and soap suds standing in dishwasher after I ran it through different cycles. Also, when I run the sanitize cycle the sanitize light flashes red at the end. It doesn’t appear to completely filling with water. Also my hot water temperature is 130 degrees after running for 1 minute. I am at a loss! Any suggestions?

For some reason I wasn't able to pull the dishwasher all the way out. Had my wife with a smaller hands and arms reached in and attached the spring with the link end onto the dishwaster anchor point. I then put on both nylon rollers. The link anchor point and rope went over the upper roller first. I then struggled and managed, with lots of pulling, to get the rope over the lower nylon roller. All went well with reattaching the water and drain lines. Plumbing in tight spaces is made for small people. This old body does not bend like it use too.
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The hardest part was pulling the unit out. Ours required the electric to be disconnected. First turn off breaker, then disconnect electric, then remove the 2 screws in the sides that keep it in place (located on top for non-stone counter). Slide unit out. Next remove the spring and connect the loop from the link to the spring. The other end of the spring goes in the hole next to the rear leg. Pull the string so there is enough slack to loop the spring aroung both pulleys and then slide the end over the hook on the bottom of the door. Use the other side as a guide. Slide unit back, hook up electric, replace mounting screws. Turn on breaker.

Remove two screws then the two toe-panels. Use a flashlight to locate spring and the hole in the metal frame near back of unit about an inch off the floor. Look at opposite side of unit to see how the working link is routed. Place correct end of the link over one end of the spring and wrap a piece of tape around nylon clip and spring end (just to save frustration of having it fall off while you attempt to complete this task). Tie a loop in the end of each end of the piece of string you supplied. Loop one loop around the spring end with the link clip and feed the other end of the strings loop out the front of the dishwasher at the bottom near the lowermost pulley. Reach under the dishwasher and hook the spring to the frame. Keep tension on the string and feed the link cord out the front of the dishwasher near the front bottom near the lowermost pulley. Loop the exposed end of the self-supplied string around the center of the flashlight handle. Have an assistant pull firmly on the flashlight/string stretching the spring (not too much to over-stretch the spring, but give yourself a little slack too). Serpentine the link cord around the two nylon pulleys. Make sure the rope side of the link clip is toward the back of the dishwasher. Place the link nylon clip over the metal door lever and into the appropriate slot. Have your assistant slowly release tension on the spring/string. Reach under the dishwasher and remove the looped string from the spring end and remove the string. Replace the toe-panels. I did the right side this way, the left side is up against a wall and I might have had additional problems, but it is hard to say since I did not replace the left link. I thought this easier than removing the dishwasher, inlet and outlet as I have done that several times and it can be a pain as well. Good luck!

Step 1. Cut off water supply. Step 2. Remove two screws from bottom plate to remove the plate. Step 3. Check that drain line and power supply have enough slack to move the unit out from under the cabinet. Step 4. Remove two screws from top frame that secure the unit to the cabinet framing (note my counter-top is granite so framing goes across the top of the unit; so units are secured directly to the countertop). Step 5. Disconnect water supply line and place something, i.e., a plate, old towel, etc. to catch excess water in the supply line. Step 6. Lower leveling feet to provide clearance to remove the unit. Step 7. Pull unit carefully from under cabinet to access both sides so Door Balance Link Kit is accessible, checking for tension on drain line and power supply line (see Step 3.) as you are pulling out the unit. Step 8. Remove broken Door Balance Link Kit (pay attention to how the rope is positioned around the pulleys; using your phone to take a picture before you disassemble the kit is a good idea). Note-the replacement kit is different in design/appearance (not function) from the OEM part. This should be clearly stated in the "Description" paperwork accompanying the part but it is not. Step 9. Install the new Door Balance Link Kit exactly as the replaced one. It is important to note that there was no spring tension when the broken part was removed so re-attaching the part with the spring attached takes some strength because of the tension. I recently (9 weeks ago) had two brain surgeries; my right arm was paralyzed following the second surgery. Although I am recovering fine, I have not gained my hand strength back completely. I used a screwdriver to stretch the spring back to the attachment point which allowed me to slip the spring into the hole. If you have to use this method or a similar technique, use extreme caution. The spring is strong and if it slips could cause an injury or damage. I strongly suggest that while the unit is out that you replace the other (non-damaged) Door Balance Link Kit. It's had the same wear as the broken and its likely to break soon. Again, if you have the hand strength to remove the spring by stretching it to disconnect it, that is the best approach. But, if you do not have the hand strength, simply take a pair of channel-locks, grasp the end of the spring to stretch the spring to remove tension on the rope and hold it while cutting the rope. Release the tension on the spring and repeat steps 8 & 9 to install the second kit. Step 10. Move the unit back into position to attach the water supply line and then attach the water supply line. Step 11. Carefully reposition the unit back into place checking to make sure the water line, drain line, and power supply are not crimped. Step 12. Once in position, use leveling feet to raise the unit to its proper height while checking to make sure it is square/level. Step 13. Replace the screws removed in Step 4. Step 14. Run the machine through a quick wash before replacing the bottom plate to verify there are no water leaks, crimped hoses, etc. Step 15. Replace the bottom plate (see Step 2.).

I watched my son as he pulled dishwasher out part way. The space was a little tight, but he did a fine job of replacing with a new string.

Fairly easy. Undid the two screws on the kick plate. Then used pliers to undo the leveling legs and pulled the dishwasher out from under the cabinet. The dishwasher is hard-wired with extra electric cable. The drainage tube is flexible and there is extra so I did not have to worry about disconnecting anything. I then attached the new door cable link to the spring. Using the Needle-nosed Vise Grips I pulled the cable so I had enough to make the connection on the door piece. Done. Then I put everything back.

I pulled the dishwasher out just over half way to access the spring area. Unscrewed the old assembly and screwed the new one in it's place. Attached the string line to the spring, wrapped it around the assembly and attached it to the door hook. Repeated procedure on other side. Problem solved.

Pulled out dishwasher to access the sides. Removed onld lines and then unscrewed pulley from frame using socket / nutdriver. Replaced pulleys with new units supplied in the kit and then threaded new lines onto door and springs. Repair complete in less than 5 minutes.

Pulled dishwasher and removed existing springs and attached rope. Ordered the part needed and replaced it somewhat easily. There is a lot of tension because of the spring on the door. Once part was installed we were ready to use our dishwasher right away. Even though the rope was broke on only one side - we replaced both sides.

Turned off power to dishwasher.
Removed screws from dishwasher retaining clips.
Pulled out dishwasher.
Removed broken rope.
Installed replacement and put everything back together.
Very easy repair. The spring is very strong and extra hand can be helpful, but not required.

After pulling the dishwasher out of the cabinet (2 screws held brackets to the underside of the counter - accessible when the door is open), I removed the broken link pieces, re-attached the springs and routed the link line around the pulleys. No need to re-set the spring tension as it was adjusted properly.

Was able to download a PDF manual from Sears for the dishwasher, so had the necessary information in the event adjustments were necessary.

I bought spare links as the dishwasher was less than 3 years old, and I expect them to fail again.

Removed 2 screws that held unit under counter. Slid diswasher out about half way; reattached metal spring in back and removed broken string. Attached replacement string to spring and threaded through wheels (copying other side), then attached string to door. Tada! Done. Will never pay a call-out fee again (for this problem anyway...)