66513929K014 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

For some reason I wasn't able to pull the dishwasher all the way out. Had my wife with a smaller hands and arms reached in and attached the spring with the link end onto the dishwaster anchor point. I then put on both nylon rollers. The link anchor point and rope went over the upper roller first. I then struggled and managed, with lots of pulling, to get the rope over the lower nylon roller. All went well with reattaching the water and drain lines. Plumbing in tight spaces is made for small people. This old body does not bend like it use too.
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Ordered the part. Called my son who brought over his toolkit. Played him the repair video on my iPad and he replaced both Door Balance Links. Door works great now.

Installation went easy your how to tutorial video was spot on perfect

I replaced the thermostat (part # PS11750035) along with the heating element (part # PS9494999) and the turbidity sensor (part # PS11757214). I also checked the filter (part # PS11759673) and it was very clean with no holes. The dishwasher still has water and soap suds standing in dishwasher after I ran it through different cycles. Also, when I run the sanitize cycle the sanitize light flashes red at the end. It doesn’t appear to completely filling with water. Also my hot water temperature is 130 degrees after running for 1 minute. I am at a loss! Any suggestions?

Hardest part of job was sliding dishwasher out. Put in wood floors so limited free space. Had to lower fron foot pegs first, then remove 2 screws from top that held unit steady. Once dishwasher was out a good 16" cords were easy to replace. Did not replace bracket that came with kit. Cords attach to heavy duty spring.

My husband managed, with some difficulty, to finally replace the broken spring and associated door balance kit. He first ordered the spring from this site. Then, after he had laboriously rolled the dishwasher out about 12" - using flat pieces of wood as support, while he lowered the dishwasher onto his homemade rollers - he realized that the corded door balance kit was also broken. So he rolled the DW back in and ordered the part. This site sent an improved door balance kit, and then he went through the same process again. He had to fish the spring back all the way to the very back of the DW and hook it through a hole, using a rod and masking tape (bad DW design, he says). Then after he rolled it back, he noticed a leak in the incoming hot water connector, at the copper pipe compression fitting. Fortunately, a local plumber, with the right tool and expertise was able to quickly fix that problem. (The plumber explained that compression fittings commonly begin leaking if even slightly moved.) Bottom line: A+ for this site, C for KitchenAid design. He says he'd undertake it again, in spite of the hassle.

Unplugged dishwasher and turned off water supply. Removed bottom panel. Put rag under valve and unscrewed water inlet. Used ratchet and socket to remove screw from valve. Disconnected wires. Disconnected outlet. Installed new valve opposite of disassembly. Turned water back on. Plugged in and checked for leaks. Test ran.

Step 1. Cut off water supply. Step 2. Remove two screws from bottom plate to remove the plate. Step 3. Check that drain line and power supply have enough slack to move the unit out from under the cabinet. Step 4. Remove two screws from top frame that secure the unit to the cabinet framing (note my counter-top is granite so framing goes across the top of the unit; so units are secured directly to the countertop). Step 5. Disconnect water supply line and place something, i.e., a plate, old towel, etc. to catch excess water in the supply line. Step 6. Lower leveling feet to provide clearance to remove the unit. Step 7. Pull unit carefully from under cabinet to access both sides so Door Balance Link Kit is accessible, checking for tension on drain line and power supply line (see Step 3.) as you are pulling out the unit. Step 8. Remove broken Door Balance Link Kit (pay attention to how the rope is positioned around the pulleys; using your phone to take a picture before you disassemble the kit is a good idea). Note-the replacement kit is different in design/appearance (not function) from the OEM part. This should be clearly stated in the "Description" paperwork accompanying the part but it is not. Step 9. Install the new Door Balance Link Kit exactly as the replaced one. It is important to note that there was no spring tension when the broken part was removed so re-attaching the part with the spring attached takes some strength because of the tension. I recently (9 weeks ago) had two brain surgeries; my right arm was paralyzed following the second surgery. Although I am recovering fine, I have not gained my hand strength back completely. I used a screwdriver to stretch the spring back to the attachment point which allowed me to slip the spring into the hole. If you have to use this method or a similar technique, use extreme caution. The spring is strong and if it slips could cause an injury or damage. I strongly suggest that while the unit is out that you replace the other (non-damaged) Door Balance Link Kit. It's had the same wear as the broken and its likely to break soon. Again, if you have the hand strength to remove the spring by stretching it to disconnect it, that is the best approach. But, if you do not have the hand strength, simply take a pair of channel-locks, grasp the end of the spring to stretch the spring to remove tension on the rope and hold it while cutting the rope. Release the tension on the spring and repeat steps 8 & 9 to install the second kit. Step 10. Move the unit back into position to attach the water supply line and then attach the water supply line. Step 11. Carefully reposition the unit back into place checking to make sure the water line, drain line, and power supply are not crimped. Step 12. Once in position, use leveling feet to raise the unit to its proper height while checking to make sure it is square/level. Step 13. Replace the screws removed in Step 4. Step 14. Run the machine through a quick wash before replacing the bottom plate to verify there are no water leaks, crimped hoses, etc. Step 15. Replace the bottom plate (see Step 2.).

Get a piece of stiff wire (medal close hanger) cut a Short piece and take a tool and roll a half circle on each end making the link length you need then attach the lanyard to the spring

You said the repair was easy and would take around 5 minutes to perform. You were spot on and the instructional video really helped do the job.

Followed the u tube video. No problems. Will use them again.

Best recommendation I can give.

Remove two screws then the two toe-panels. Use a flashlight to locate spring and the hole in the metal frame near back of unit about an inch off the floor. Look at opposite side of unit to see how the working link is routed. Place correct end of the link over one end of the spring and wrap a piece of tape around nylon clip and spring end (just to save frustration of having it fall off while you attempt to complete this task). Tie a loop in the end of each end of the piece of string you supplied. Loop one loop around the spring end with the link clip and feed the other end of the strings loop out the front of the dishwasher at the bottom near the lowermost pulley. Reach under the dishwasher and hook the spring to the frame. Keep tension on the string and feed the link cord out the front of the dishwasher near the front bottom near the lowermost pulley. Loop the exposed end of the self-supplied string around the center of the flashlight handle. Have an assistant pull firmly on the flashlight/string stretching the spring (not too much to over-stretch the spring, but give yourself a little slack too). Serpentine the link cord around the two nylon pulleys. Make sure the rope side of the link clip is toward the back of the dishwasher. Place the link nylon clip over the metal door lever and into the appropriate slot. Have your assistant slowly release tension on the spring/string. Reach under the dishwasher and remove the looped string from the spring end and remove the string. Replace the toe-panels. I did the right side this way, the left side is up against a wall and I might have had additional problems, but it is hard to say since I did not replace the left link. I thought this easier than removing the dishwasher, inlet and outlet as I have done that several times and it can be a pain as well. Good luck!

repaired exactly as your video described......hardest part it getting unit out from under cabinet and back in.

Pulled the dishwasher out and removed the plastic pulley on the bottom of the unit. Installed the new pulley. wrapped the string assy. around the pulley and attached it to the spring and reinstalled it to the back of the dishwasher. We discovered the front bracket on the dishwasher door was bent slightly causing the string to rub and probably is what caused the string to break. We bent the bracket back into shape and reinstalled the dishwasher in its cavity.

Followed a repair video.