66513222N414 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

last time this piece broke, I called a tech and $150 to fix. I am not much of a do-it-yourselfer, but this was very easy. Removed to screws. I then pulled out dishawasher from cabinet. Removed plastic piece, replaced part, pushed dishwasher back and put in screws.

Easy, easy, easy. Appliances use to be built with metal parts that did not break as often.

Shut off power to dishwasher.Pulled dishwasher half way out from cabinet, careful not to disconnect waterline, drain-line, and electrical connections. Replaced roller assemblies and connected new door balance links to springs as shown in the great video featured on your website. Thank you for the great pricing, speedy service, and the install instructions. I am happy!

For some reason I wasn't able to pull the dishwasher all the way out. Had my wife with a smaller hands and arms reached in and attached the spring with the link end onto the dishwaster anchor point. I then put on both nylon rollers. The link anchor point and rope went over the upper roller first. I then struggled and managed, with lots of pulling, to get the rope over the lower nylon roller. All went well with reattaching the water and drain lines. Plumbing in tight spaces is made for small people. This old body does not bend like it use too.
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The hardest part was pulling the unit out. Ours required the electric to be disconnected. First turn off breaker, then disconnect electric, then remove the 2 screws in the sides that keep it in place (located on top for non-stone counter). Slide unit out. Next remove the spring and connect the loop from the link to the spring. The other end of the spring goes in the hole next to the rear leg. Pull the string so there is enough slack to loop the spring aroung both pulleys and then slide the end over the hook on the bottom of the door. Use the other side as a guide. Slide unit back, hook up electric, replace mounting screws. Turn on breaker.

Remove two screws then the two toe-panels. Use a flashlight to locate spring and the hole in the metal frame near back of unit about an inch off the floor. Look at opposite side of unit to see how the working link is routed. Place correct end of the link over one end of the spring and wrap a piece of tape around nylon clip and spring end (just to save frustration of having it fall off while you attempt to complete this task). Tie a loop in the end of each end of the piece of string you supplied. Loop one loop around the spring end with the link clip and feed the other end of the strings loop out the front of the dishwasher at the bottom near the lowermost pulley. Reach under the dishwasher and hook the spring to the frame. Keep tension on the string and feed the link cord out the front of the dishwasher near the front bottom near the lowermost pulley. Loop the exposed end of the self-supplied string around the center of the flashlight handle. Have an assistant pull firmly on the flashlight/string stretching the spring (not too much to over-stretch the spring, but give yourself a little slack too). Serpentine the link cord around the two nylon pulleys. Make sure the rope side of the link clip is toward the back of the dishwasher. Place the link nylon clip over the metal door lever and into the appropriate slot. Have your assistant slowly release tension on the spring/string. Reach under the dishwasher and remove the looped string from the spring end and remove the string. Replace the toe-panels. I did the right side this way, the left side is up against a wall and I might have had additional problems, but it is hard to say since I did not replace the left link. I thought this easier than removing the dishwasher, inlet and outlet as I have done that several times and it can be a pain as well. Good luck!

Fairly easy. Undid the two screws on the kick plate. Then used pliers to undo the leveling legs and pulled the dishwasher out from under the cabinet. The dishwasher is hard-wired with extra electric cable. The drainage tube is flexible and there is extra so I did not have to worry about disconnecting anything. I then attached the new door cable link to the spring. Using the Needle-nosed Vise Grips I pulled the cable so I had enough to make the connection on the door piece. Done. Then I put everything back.

Step 1. Cut off water supply. Step 2. Remove two screws from bottom plate to remove the plate. Step 3. Check that drain line and power supply have enough slack to move the unit out from under the cabinet. Step 4. Remove two screws from top frame that secure the unit to the cabinet framing (note my counter-top is granite so framing goes across the top of the unit; so units are secured directly to the countertop). Step 5. Disconnect water supply line and place something, i.e., a plate, old towel, etc. to catch excess water in the supply line. Step 6. Lower leveling feet to provide clearance to remove the unit. Step 7. Pull unit carefully from under cabinet to access both sides so Door Balance Link Kit is accessible, checking for tension on drain line and power supply line (see Step 3.) as you are pulling out the unit. Step 8. Remove broken Door Balance Link Kit (pay attention to how the rope is positioned around the pulleys; using your phone to take a picture before you disassemble the kit is a good idea). Note-the replacement kit is different in design/appearance (not function) from the OEM part. This should be clearly stated in the "Description" paperwork accompanying the part but it is not. Step 9. Install the new Door Balance Link Kit exactly as the replaced one. It is important to note that there was no spring tension when the broken part was removed so re-attaching the part with the spring attached takes some strength because of the tension. I recently (9 weeks ago) had two brain surgeries; my right arm was paralyzed following the second surgery. Although I am recovering fine, I have not gained my hand strength back completely. I used a screwdriver to stretch the spring back to the attachment point which allowed me to slip the spring into the hole. If you have to use this method or a similar technique, use extreme caution. The spring is strong and if it slips could cause an injury or damage. I strongly suggest that while the unit is out that you replace the other (non-damaged) Door Balance Link Kit. It's had the same wear as the broken and its likely to break soon. Again, if you have the hand strength to remove the spring by stretching it to disconnect it, that is the best approach. But, if you do not have the hand strength, simply take a pair of channel-locks, grasp the end of the spring to stretch the spring to remove tension on the rope and hold it while cutting the rope. Release the tension on the spring and repeat steps 8 & 9 to install the second kit. Step 10. Move the unit back into position to attach the water supply line and then attach the water supply line. Step 11. Carefully reposition the unit back into place checking to make sure the water line, drain line, and power supply are not crimped. Step 12. Once in position, use leveling feet to raise the unit to its proper height while checking to make sure it is square/level. Step 13. Replace the screws removed in Step 4. Step 14. Run the machine through a quick wash before replacing the bottom plate to verify there are no water leaks, crimped hoses, etc. Step 15. Replace the bottom plate (see Step 2.).

I watched my son as he pulled dishwasher out part way. The space was a little tight, but he did a fine job of replacing with a new string.

I've had to do this repair at least twice before over the last few years so I stand by my original assertion that the door "balance link kit" reflects very poor design. Well, maybe the design would be okay if the materials were not prone to breakage. However, a simpler spring-only mechanism would have been more reliable. The current design uses string embedded in plastic that latches to a hook area for both sides of the door (frame). The string is threaded around a hub and then to a spring that is in turn connected to the chassis at a rather distant point which also adds to the difficulty due to requiring greater access to the dishwasher sides. It would be much better if the repair could be done without necessitating removal of the entire unit from the cabinet cavity first. I noted that this time around there's been a redesign so that the hub is no longer a round fixed knob but now includes a rotatable wheel. So perhaps there'll now be less wear on the strings that with the prior design! -- D.A.D

Once the cord broke, the stainless steel door became very heavy (eventhough the other side cord/spring combo was intact). My order came within days. The repair kit came with two complete sets (left and right sides). The repair was simple. I used the unbroken side as a guide to fix the broken side. I used all parts from the kit. The part of the repair that required time was to disconnect the electric, plumbing and drain lines. In order to pull the diswasher from the cabinet. Just remember to turn the water back on when you are finished!

Remove power. Remove drain line from sink. Remove hot water line at connection. Remove 2 screws that hold dishwasher to countertop (on top). Pull dishwasher out. Find spring as it has shot to the back when the nylon cord link broke. Hook Spring back in. Attach cord loop end (hard plastic) to spring. Attach other end to door hook. Now stretch spring to loosen cord and slip around pully system. Push dishwasher back in and rehook all connections.

First I removed the two screws holding the dishwasher in place. Then I pulled the dishwasher forward from under the counter about 2 feet, attached the new part to the spring and pulley, then pushed the dishwasher back into place and installed screws.
PartSelect was awesome! UPS delivered to the wrong address and Partselect took care of it IMMEDIATELY! I have ordered more parts from them and no problems. I would DEFINATELY recomend them!

Watched the video provided by this site on changing a dishwasher door seal and then replaced my seal as per video. Very simple task. I think the key point of installation is folding the new seal in half to get the midpoint and then inserting that spot first using door latch as midpoint guide and bring the seal around both corners to the bottom. Works perfect.

Viewed the video and, Done!

Unscrewed bottom panel of the dishwasher and simply replaced the bad control switch with the new one.