66513222N414 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

I pulled the dishwasher out just over half way to access the spring area. Unscrewed the old assembly and screwed the new one in it's place. Attached the string line to the spring, wrapped it around the assembly and attached it to the door hook. Repeated procedure on other side. Problem solved.

Pulled out dishwasher to access the sides. Removed onld lines and then unscrewed pulley from frame using socket / nutdriver. Replaced pulleys with new units supplied in the kit and then threaded new lines onto door and springs. Repair complete in less than 5 minutes.

Pulled dishwasher and removed existing springs and attached rope. Ordered the part needed and replaced it somewhat easily. There is a lot of tension because of the spring on the door. Once part was installed we were ready to use our dishwasher right away. Even though the rope was broke on only one side - we replaced both sides.

Followed the parts list diagram and confirmed with the link on the other side of door. Hooked the plastic attachment to the door, threaded the string around the plastic pulleys, attached the spring and mount it to the back of the dishwasher. that was it! Very easy to do. Hardest part was sliding the dishwasher out and in.

Thank you for letting me share my repair experience with you.
I removed the two screws that hold the diswasher to the wooden cabinet. Lowered the leveling adjustment screws on bottom of unit, then slid out the diswasher from inside the cabinet.
Then ordered the new lanyard. Waited one week day and the order arrived via mail. It has two lanyars and new rotating pulley assemblies for both sides of the door. I loosened the bottom screw on the old pully assembly and refitted the new pulleys in same location. (very easy). I then refitted spring to back of unit (with blue line toward front), then fitted the lanyard to the spring. Pulled lanyard thru the pulley. Had to have nice wife connect the other side of the lanyard to the post as I extended the spring on the side of the unit. We completed same steps on other side of the unit. After completing the door lanyard repair, I slid the dishwasher in the cabinet, re-leveled the unit with the front adjustment screw, then incerted the cabinet screws into the wooden cabinet. I feel this was quite a savings to us. Thanks to nice individuals on the internet and partselect.com, who provided excellent service to me....and my family. I also can see the end result of my effort, which is a nice feeling.
Thank you.

First we removed the two screws up under the countertop that secured the dishwasher in place. Next we pulled the d/w out from under the counter, having to unplug the power cord and feeding the drain hose into the d/w cavity from under the kitchen sink to allow this. On each side, attached to a metal spring was a nylon cord with plastic attachments that ran through two plastic pullies/wheels. The plastic piece on one of the nylon cords had broken...only on one side, so we were able to just look at the 'good' side to see how to attach and string the repair part through again. We pushed the d/w back in, made sure the drain hose under the kitchen sink wasn't kinked by pulling it back under the sink from the d/w cavity, plugged it in, replaced the two securing screws and were done. The old cord running through the pullies had always creaked when the door was opened, so while the d/w was out, we coated it w/ WD40. Piece-of-cake!

The door balance springs are connected to the door via a nylon cable which snakes through a couple of pulleys. The plastic fastener on the end of one of these cables separated, so the one remaining spring was not able to offset the weight of the door. Easy to fix, just slide the unit out about 15 inches (remove base plate, and undo a couple screws on top) then replace cables. You can buy just the one cable, or for a couple bucks more, both L&R cables and new pulleys. Replaced the pulleys on my unit at the same time (remove one screw and twist out) since the replacement parts were of better quality than my factory parts. Don’t pay a repair guy $250 or more to fix this for you. It’s easy.

The repair itself was relatively easy. I basically only had to remove the two screws that were securing the diswasher to the cabinetry, disconnected the water line and extended the diswasher out approximately 10 inches. I then replaced the part by hooking the new cable assembly to the spring and using pliers expanded the spring so I could snake the other end of the cable through the pulleys and attach it to the door. The otherside was my guide. This part should be modified to replace the two plastic ends with metal counterparts. This would allow the part to have a longer life especially in my case since the plastic end broke and not the cable itself.

Pretty easy for the parts. Taking the dishwasher out is the hard part. Typically, you should be able to unscrew the 2 screws holding the dishwasher to the underside of the countertop and then slide out the dishwasher to expose the cable assembly - but you also need to unplug the unit (unless it is hardwired), disconnect the hot water supply line from the angle stop (remember to turn off the angle stop) and sometimes disconnect the drain line from the vacuum breaker or garb disposal. You need to disconnect these things so that you can move the dishwasher out far enough to be able to see the entire right and left sides of the dishwasher. Once that hard part is done, you use a hex driver to remove the old cable pulleys, put on the new cable pulleys, and then feed the light weight cable through the pulleys - the end with the big plastic thingie attaches to the door and the other end attaches to the spring. Then you grab the spring and manhandle it onto the back end of the dishwasher chassis (look for the small hole in line with where the cable would line up. Careful as the spring attachment step could result in an injury - Hope this helps.

just move the machine out and replace the string. this site is very reliable and and great company. since the dishmachine door cannot be closed, we first order door strike, ,,,, still doesn't work after installation. and return all parts and order the balance kit, now works fine after. we appreciate your help

1st pull dishwasher out. attach the new cable to the spring. reinstall the spring on the frame. Use pliers to pull slack in the cable to attach the cable to the door. The hardest thing about the install was putting the screws in the side of the dishwasher to the cabinets.

Get a piece of stiff wire (medal close hanger) cut a Short piece and take a tool and roll a half circle on each end making the link length you need then attach the lanyard to the spring

I replaced the thermostat (part # PS11750035) along with the heating element (part # PS9494999) and the turbidity sensor (part # PS11757214). I also checked the filter (part # PS11759673) and it was very clean with no holes. The dishwasher still has water and soap suds standing in dishwasher after I ran it through different cycles. Also, when I run the sanitize cycle the sanitize light flashes red at the end. It doesn’t appear to completely filling with water. Also my hot water temperature is 130 degrees after running for 1 minute. I am at a loss! Any suggestions?

Replaced door balance link kit and door opens easy does not squeak or slam down.

based on advice here, concluded the problem was likely that the part "Valve-Inlt" was defective. Our dishwasher intake line is copper and had already developed a partial kink from sometime in the past, so I had to be careful. The final connection to the new part had to happen in place: very close to the floor and underneath, because I didn’t want to stress the copper line. Plus, the shutoff was defective, and it was always leaking while I connected. Awkward. As I was threading on, it started to look like it might be cross-threaded, so I stopped and reversed. Slid the washer back out and disconnected the drain line so I could tip the dishwasher u and inspect. It was going on cross-threaded. Not hard to happen on a metal to a plastic connection. To solve, I carefully made very small bends in the copper inlet line until when it would later be brought up underneath to connect to the inlet valve, it would be as perfectly aligned as possible. This worked. As I tightened, it went a little easier and the leak stopped. A good moment. Tightened a bit more, but didn’t want to overdo it as that can cause other problems. Now the moment of truth: let’s run it. DISHWASHER WORKED AGAIN. Runs fine now and we are glad to have it back. Was satisfying I could do this on my own. The advice and guides here made that possible. Thank you.