66513222N414 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Received the part. No instructions came with it. Luckily it was pretty simple to figure out. i removed the appliance from under the counter, saw how the part was attached on the other side and simply replaced the other side that was broken. Easy.

Disconnect top screws
Pull dishwasher out halfway
Notice how the other side is connected
Thread cord, use pliers to pull spring to connect.

The repair itself was relatively easy. I basically only had to remove the two screws that were securing the diswasher to the cabinetry, disconnected the water line and extended the diswasher out approximately 10 inches. I then replaced the part by hooking the new cable assembly to the spring and using pliers expanded the spring so I could snake the other end of the cable through the pulleys and attach it to the door. The otherside was my guide. This part should be modified to replace the two plastic ends with metal counterparts. This would allow the part to have a longer life especially in my case since the plastic end broke and not the cable itself.

Removed the bottom cover plates.
Removed the screws holding in the dishwasher.
Removed old single moving roller and replaced with newly designed double rollers.
Installed link(string).
Replaced other side rollers and link.
Reinstalled dishwaser.

Shut off elec. and water. remove bottom plate and 2 screws holding the unit to the counter top.
disconect elec wires to unit and remove water line.
Pull unit out from counter and replace cable to spring the same way as the unbroken side.
Slide unit back and reverse hookup.
My only problem was that the part they sent me was about a 1/2" shorter the the original and the door is hard to open.

The hardest part was pulling the unit out. Ours required the electric to be disconnected. First turn off breaker, then disconnect electric, then remove the 2 screws in the sides that keep it in place (located on top for non-stone counter). Slide unit out. Next remove the spring and connect the loop from the link to the spring. The other end of the spring goes in the hole next to the rear leg. Pull the string so there is enough slack to loop the spring aroung both pulleys and then slide the end over the hook on the bottom of the door. Use the other side as a guide. Slide unit back, hook up electric, replace mounting screws. Turn on breaker.

last time this piece broke, I called a tech and $150 to fix. I am not much of a do-it-yourselfer, but this was very easy. Removed to screws. I then pulled out dishawasher from cabinet. Removed plastic piece, replaced part, pushed dishwasher back and put in screws.

Easy, easy, easy. Appliances use to be built with metal parts that did not break as often.

based on advice here, concluded the problem was likely that the part "Valve-Inlt" was defective. Our dishwasher intake line is copper and had already developed a partial kink from sometime in the past, so I had to be careful. The final connection to the new part had to happen in place: very close to the floor and underneath, because I didn’t want to stress the copper line. Plus, the shutoff was defective, and it was always leaking while I connected. Awkward. As I was threading on, it started to look like it might be cross-threaded, so I stopped and reversed. Slid the washer back out and disconnected the drain line so I could tip the dishwasher u and inspect. It was going on cross-threaded. Not hard to happen on a metal to a plastic connection. To solve, I carefully made very small bends in the copper inlet line until when it would later be brought up underneath to connect to the inlet valve, it would be as perfectly aligned as possible. This worked. As I tightened, it went a little easier and the leak stopped. A good moment. Tightened a bit more, but didn’t want to overdo it as that can cause other problems. Now the moment of truth: let’s run it. DISHWASHER WORKED AGAIN. Runs fine now and we are glad to have it back. Was satisfying I could do this on my own. The advice and guides here made that possible. Thank you.

I'm the maintenance supervisor at an apartment complex. While installing a new dishwasher for a tenant, I inadvertently cross-threaded the swivel connector to the fill valve. The valve was ruined and couldn't be repaired. I ordered a new valve (it was an OEM) and installed it. Simple switch out, plus the video from Parts Select showed I had done it right.

My 2 yr old sat on the dishwasher door while it was open. It snapped both the links on the door causing the dishwasher door to drop every time it was ajar. It was a real danger to the kids or to anyone else unaware of the door given its weight.

I ordered the part from Part Select based model and some of the posts that it was something you can do yourself. Park Select was outstanding as got the part next day and got direction from others (thank you). I did not have either side of the door working so no real gauge but finally understood how it worked once I did a search online for a picture.

Recommendation: if both links (rope) are broken, you will need to hunt down the springs on side/back of machine. The part with small hole connects to the spring, the other to the door. Make a reverse S with the rope through the pully system for tention. I did not initially do the reverse S and the part popped of the door once I closed it. Otherwise, easy thing to do and certainly do not need a repair person.....if you need picture, do a search on dishwasher door pully system

1st pull dishwasher out. attach the new cable to the spring. reinstall the spring on the frame. Use pliers to pull slack in the cable to attach the cable to the door. The hardest thing about the install was putting the screws in the side of the dishwasher to the cabinets.

We pulled the unit out and were able to easily see where it broke. We replaced it relatively easy, pushed dishwasher back in; however, somehow the pump seal got broken in the process so now we have to replace the pump. This was totally unrelated to this repair - only can assume it happened when we pushed the unit back into place.

The door balance springs are connected to the door via a nylon cable which snakes through a couple of pulleys. The plastic fastener on the end of one of these cables separated, so the one remaining spring was not able to offset the weight of the door. Easy to fix, just slide the unit out about 15 inches (remove base plate, and undo a couple screws on top) then replace cables. You can buy just the one cable, or for a couple bucks more, both L&R cables and new pulleys. Replaced the pulleys on my unit at the same time (remove one screw and twist out) since the replacement parts were of better quality than my factory parts. Don’t pay a repair guy $250 or more to fix this for you. It’s easy.

First I turned off the water and power to the dishwasher.I removed the two screws on the front bottom cover plate, removed the plate. Removed the two nuts and bolts holding the dishwasher in place between the cabinets. Then I pulled the dishwasher out about 6 to 7 inches so I could see the spring, pulley and rope connections. Then I saw the rope on the right side of the door bottom had pulled through the connector. I ordered the part and next day delivery was great.(excellent service). The repair kit comes with both sides parts but I only needed one(for now). I reconnected spring to rope connector and threaded through pulley and to the door and job was done. A little difficult stretching spring so I put a long piece of wire to hold spring tight while connecting to rope but I worked out great. My husband said "great job, honey". I saved a $150 repairman bill....now I might go shopping (ha ha) Kim

Pulled out dishwasher to access the sides. Removed onld lines and then unscrewed pulley from frame using socket / nutdriver. Replaced pulleys with new units supplied in the kit and then threaded new lines onto door and springs. Repair complete in less than 5 minutes.