6651574991 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Remove retainer that holds door color slide in front of door & then remove the slide. Remove cardboard backing, remove electric latch release, remove latch & replace with new one. Open door & slide out the cup dispenser cover pin & spring & replace with new ones. This was all straight-forward & simple.

Replaced heating element and high limit thermostat. Was suppose to fix the problem but did not. Replaced the control board and works now. All of these are easy to replace.

put new seal in and it still leaked!hum

Came home and my husband had it all done. He said it was simple and it looks bran new again. Very satisfied.

I took the pin and i slide it through the first hole attached the spring then sldie it through the second hole and snap the cover on

Remove completely the old one and installed the new entire kit.

Opened the door by using a star screwdriver. Pulled the door inside from the outside. Located the broken spring, put in new one (be very carefull to see how the insides are put together..makes life ALOT easier), and carefully put back together.

You slide the pin that holds the door in the first hole. then you slide the spring in next. The you slide the pin through the last hole. After that you gently push the door onto the pin till it snaps into place. And your done.

dropped the new float in, works like a charm

The part arrived the next day with regular postage, outstanding service.

Using a Torx screwdriver, I removed the fasteners holding the control panel/latch section of the door on the dishwasher. I tested the high limit thermostat with a multimeter. Just two terminals, one being power in, the other power out. The part had what I have heard call a "high resistance open". In other words, the power was not getting from "A" to "B". Power in - not out. After cutting power to the unit, I removed the part (just pull it out of the retaining clip and pull the terminals from the part). After receiving the part...by the way, really fast delivery...I reconnected the part (it doesn't matter which wire goes where), pushed the part back into the retaining clip, replaced and fastened the control panel, then restored power to the unit. Runs like new.

Remove blown high limit therm.and replace with the new high limit

Safety First: 1) I shut power off to dishwasher, 2) Shut water off to dishwasher, 3) Checked electrical with tic tracer to confirm power was off after removing bottom dishwasher panel, 4) I checked the orientation of old valve: connection plate, water inlet tubing, hose connection, and electrical connection. Then I removed the 2-screws that held the valve in place with a nut driver. Next I removed the compression clamp from the rubber hose with pliers and a screw driver. Then I removed the compression fitting and copper tubing from the old valve. Note: Kenmore used a compression fitting to connect the copper tubing to the original water valve. That said, I had to remove the old fitting and install a new one (using a pipe cutter on the copper tubing before installing a new compression fitting). I also bought a new valve elbow because the old one was not serviceable. With all three connections made up (the rubber tubing connected to the new valve along with the electrical connection, and the new elbow and compression fitting installed) I tested for leaks and reconnected the holding bracket to the side of the dishwasher frame. Before calling it good I vacuumed out the area under the dishwasher. Note: because the water inlet valve is located close to the floor, all the work had to be done while laying on the floor...awkward. This too, I had to purchase a new valve elbow and compression fitting so halfway through the project I had to make a run to the hardware store. Overall, replacing the water inlet valve on a 10 year old Kenmore dishwasher is an easy project...pretty straight forward but having to go to the hardware store stretched the installation time out to over an hour.

The video was of great help. One area that gave me grief was placing the small part with points under the plastic mechanism in the door. I tried to push the points into the open slot. After watching the movie a few more times I was trying to put the part in backwards. A little more explanation at this point in the video would have been a tremendous help. Otherwise, thank you for the video.

The hardest part was locating the leak. After consulting the other repair suggestions, I concluded that the gasket was a little more worn on one side than the other so I ordered the gasket. The evening before the gasket arrived (quick delivery from partselect.com) I decided to shim out the old gasket with some old door insulation. It made the door harder to close but it didn't leak any more. When the gasket arrived I replaced the old with the new. It leaked more than ever. After reading more repair instructions, I decided to take apart the door vent and check it. It was packed solid with gunk. After a good cleaning, I put everything back together. No leaks! I tried every repair listed except the door vent. Guess steam is a good gunk conduit LOL. I supposed I didn't really need the new door gasket but I can tell the door has a tighter seal now. Here's a tip to watch for. If the door doesn't leak right away after the washer starts, take the door apart and look at the vent. It can look just fine from the outside and that's deceiving. Someone else mentioned the 'leak' timing that finally got my attention and lead to the 'fix.'