JDB1095AWS1 Jenn-Air Dishwasher - Instructions

I watched a couple of videos on Youtube, and for once it was actually easier than anticipated. Unplug unit. Remove door screws. Separate inner door from outer door. Remove connector from dispenser (needed flat blade screwdriver to pry it at first.) Remove six screws holder dispenser in. Removed old dispenser, inserted new one, tightened six screws, re-connected wires, attached inner door to outer door, and was done in literally less than 10 minutes. Note: I was using a battery powered screw driver to remove the screws, so that's one reason why it went so fast.

I removed the main plastic bolt with a pliers and then just used a screwgun with a star tip for all the screws.
I am a 43 year old woman with no experience and I was able to figure it out. The machine cleans much better now.

I removed the inside door panel, unplugged the old assembly and replaced with the new. The only caveat is that I THOUGHT the unit came WITH a new plastic handle, and it did not. It was very difficult to remove the handle from the old unit, and to install it in the new unit. The description was not adequate. I had read other blogs and they warned of the same missing handle, and I thought I had ordered correctly. The repair is fine, but the old handle is cracked, so I dont know how long it will last.

First I made sure the breaker for the appliance was turned off!

I only had to unscrew all the screws from the inside door.

Next I used pliers to pry the old Latch Assembly (it is all pig tailed so only to plugs to undo).

Next, I snapped the new Latch Assembly into the two sockets.

Screws were replaced and wa la!

Turned breaker on and tested. Easy as pie. Took about 10 minutes from collecting the tools, fixing the problem, and replacing all the tools.

I actually had my 14 year old daughter do it so that she could learn how to make small repairs. This would have easily cost approximately $150 for a repairman to come and fix.

Then we went to the garage and unstuck the valve on the carberator to our '75 Chevy! (it was cold).

Not bad for a couple of girls!

1. Remove both upper and lower dish trays
2. Remove the “Spinner /Sprayer” (small nut on the top)
3. Unclip the “Tower” from the top and rear clip
4. Remove the “Tower” from the unit
5. Remove the “Filter Guard” on the bottom by removing 3 torx screws
6. Remove the “Discharge Housing” & “Impeller” (1 – 15 torx screw)
7. Remove and replace the “Accumulator Filter” (8 – 20 torx screws)
8. Assemble in reverse order

Shut off the electricity to the dishwasher. I removed all 11 screws from the door panel. After separating the 2 door panels, I removed the 2 door switches from the door handle ( I used a flat head screw driver to help get them out). Then I unplugged the 2 switches and plugged in the new ones. I replaced the door switches into the door handle ( this was not an exact fit because the new switches is slightly larger than the old ones). I put the new switches in place as tight as I could in the handle. I screwed the 2 screws holding the handle first to secure it before I put all the other screws in the door panel. I turned the electricity to the dishwasher back on. Our dishwasher has been working perfect ever since then and it is over 10 years old.

The actual problem was the plastic wash arm cap was worn down and not holding the spray arm in place allowing it to hit the lower dish rack and stopping it from turning. The cap is on a threaded steel stem and is easily removed. The spray arm lifts off the stem and its replacement slips right on. Then install the new wash arm cap by screwing it on the stem.

Removed two screws at the top of the base washer. Three screws removed down both sides of the base washer. Lifted washer out enough to see the cable and spring connections. Removed cable and replaced with new and re-connected. Slid washer back into position and installed screws.

Basket Replacement very simple just remove old and set new basket in place

1. Removed the guide end clips/stops by pressing the release tabs. 2. Slide out and remove the upper dishwasher tray. 3. Released all four upper wheel assemblies and replaced with four new ones. I did use a flat blade screwdriver to slip the clip off the tray hold and then removing the wheel assembly was easy. 4. Reinstall the upper dishwasher tray by aligning it with the guides (very easy). 5. Reinstalled the plastic tray guide clips/stops by pressing them back into place. Make sure the tabs lock into place properly. 6. Enjoy hassle free dishwashing again!

Replaced with the new basket. However, the part had been replaced, and I do not like the new setup. One basket has been replace with 2 that are hooked together. Each basket has a cover, but it covers the whole side, not just a part. In my old basket, I had a part of the basket with a cover that could hold plastic lids and measuring spoons that can easily wash out of the basket and hit the heating element on the bottom. My "fix" was to remove both lids and use the lid from the old basket to cover one part of the new basket. It's not very satisfactory, as it is not hinged and had to be removed and tucked in each time!

I have done two repairs, and both times PartSelect.com came to the rescue! The first repair was a few years ago when the dishwasher would run but nothing got wet. It made all the right noises except the sound of water being thrown around, because no water was being pumped! This resulted from a cheap plastic "chopper" assembly that stripped and wouldn't drive the impeller. PartSelect sold me a solid metal replacement part for under $10 and that fixed the problem for several years.

Recently, we had a different problem where the dishwasher completely haulted and the wash motor wouldn't run. This was caused by a faulty impeller, another cheap plastic part. The wash impeller fragmented around the drive shaft to where it sat uneven and thus created too much resistance for the motor to drive it. I removed the impeller, superglued the plastic parts together so that I could then wrap them in copper wire (about 1mm diameter), and then I hot-glued over the copper wrapping to secure the entire thing and to help keep water out of it. I did this so that we could wash dishes while we waited for the new impeller. Well the new impeller came several days early and so far I have just been too lazy to go remove the makeshift part. I figure it will fail sooner or later and then I will install my new part which should give me at least 9 more years of trouble free washing!

The old docking station seals were getting very soft. To put a band aid on the wound until the new docking station got here I put a sleve on the washer bar feeder tube. This made an improvement. The docking station was removed using a screw driver to unsnap the station. Then all I had to do was snap the new one in. Be care ful not to pull on the piece the docking station is snapped on to. There are metal clips behind there that hold that water delivery tube on to the back of the dishwasher. Those clips are twisted on and can be striped off easily by pulling strait towards you. If that happens you must secure the clips using self tapping screws and a water proof sealent.

Took out the old basket,
Threw it away.
Popped in the new baskey,
filled it with forks and spoons.
Works great!

By the way, my order arrived in one day.
Phenomenal!

The door wouldn't close and it thought it the sensor was constantly open so it would turn on even if the door was wide open. Took the 10 or so torx screws off and removed the cover. Lifted the old assembly out and had to use pliers to get the wires detached from the door sensors. Attached the sensors to the new assembly, replaced the cover and screws and that was it. very easy fix.