JDB1095AWS1 Jenn-Air Dishwasher - Instructions

Replaced with the new basket. However, the part had been replaced, and I do not like the new setup. One basket has been replace with 2 that are hooked together. Each basket has a cover, but it covers the whole side, not just a part. In my old basket, I had a part of the basket with a cover that could hold plastic lids and measuring spoons that can easily wash out of the basket and hit the heating element on the bottom. My "fix" was to remove both lids and use the lid from the old basket to cover one part of the new basket. It's not very satisfactory, as it is not hinged and had to be removed and tucked in each time!

Dishwasher is in our summer cabin in Colorado so everything has to be drained for the winter. Not really sure whether this leak was freeze caused or that the valve was just old. Couldn't find a crack when I got the old one apart; might have been just an O ring needed. Anyway, just follow the video provided by this site for replacement of the valve; really easy. Biggest hassle for us was getting the dishwasher out (and back in) as it was wrapped in insulation which made the fit really tight. Thought I had everything I needed when I started but didn't have teflon tape which is needed for the brass fitting connecting the water supply to the valve (fitting is in your old valve and will be reused with the new one).

Remove the screws , opened door panel. Removed switch with latch and replaced with new parts. Replaced panel and screws. Install completed.

In order to clean the screen I had to remove the impeller. Removal required using a wheel puller. I backed off on the impeller screw but left it attached so that the wheel puller could pry against it. I then tightened the puller enough to free the impeller. I was then able to unscrew and remove the screen for cleaning.

Turned off water at the shutoff valve. I did not turn off the power, but it is recommended you do so. I pulled the dishwasher out from under the cabinet and used a car jack to lift the front off of the ground. Disconnected the water supply and the rubber hose that fills the dishwasher tub. There are two 7mm screws that hold the water pump to the frame. If you do not have a 7mm socket, the easiest thing to use is an interchangeable screwdriver. When the screw bit is pulled out, the empty screwdriver is a 7mm. Used adjustable wrench to remove the brass water port for the supply line. Teflon tape to all connections and hooked everything back up. My supply line was old and was leaking, so I had to run out and get a new one, so that added about 30 minutes to what would have been maybe a 20 minute repair.

I had to lightly pry off the long piece of plastic next to the wheel assembly because I had to twist the assembly counter clockwise to remove the old one. Also had to place the new one so that it rotated clockwise to seat it. Then replaced the other plastic piece.

1. Remove both upper and lower dish trays
2. Remove the “Spinner /Sprayer” (small nut on the top)
3. Unclip the “Tower” from the top and rear clip
4. Remove the “Tower” from the unit
5. Remove the “Filter Guard” on the bottom by removing 3 torx screws
6. Remove the “Discharge Housing” & “Impeller” (1 – 15 torx screw)
7. Remove and replace the “Accumulator Filter” (8 – 20 torx screws)
8. Assemble in reverse order

I followed the instructions here on PartSelect to dismantle and put the new impeller in to place. Could tell the difference just in sound alone once it was running.

Pulled dishwasher out far enough to get at the original hose. Disconnected and drained the hose. Connected new hose, zip tied the hose in place, pushed dishwasher back in place and re-anchored. Zippidy do...piece of cake. Perfect fit.

PULLED OUT DISHWASHER . REMOVED THE IN SIDE RESTRAINING BRACKET. ON OUT SIDE IS WATER FILL BOX THAT GASKET MOUNTS IN, REMOVED, REPLACED WITH NEW GASKET REINSTALLED RESTAINING BRACKET ON IN SIDE AND PUT DISHWASHER BACK IN. JOB COMPLETE EASY.

Snapped new wheel on

This site has a great video on how to do this. Just follow that.

I pulled out the dishwasher enough to tip it back and put a block of wood underneath the front leveling foot.
This step gave me more room to work on the valve.
I removed the lower cover plates to expose the valve.
I disconnected the incoming water line and unplugged the electrical connection.
I then unscrewed the bracket to release the valve from the case and took off the rubber hose attached to it.
I installed the rubber hose on the new unit and installed the bracket back in place. I then wrapped some Teflon tape on the threads of the valve fitting and re-installed the water supply line. I re-installed the electrical connection.
I then turned on the water to check for leaks. Once I was certain there were no leaks, I re-installed the lower cover plates and took out the wood block and pushed the dishwasher back into place and re-installed the screws that held it in place.
I then ran a load of dishes to make sure everything was working properly.

The actual problem was the plastic wash arm cap was worn down and not holding the spray arm in place allowing it to hit the lower dish rack and stopping it from turning. The cap is on a threaded steel stem and is easily removed. The spray arm lifts off the stem and its replacement slips right on. Then install the new wash arm cap by screwing it on the stem.

The "repair" was actually a replacement. My wife did it. She took out the old, damaged basket and dropped in the new, replacement basket. She removed the slotted lids because she doesn't think they are necessary and she doesn't like them. I got the old basket for holding small items in my workshop. The lids will be thrown away, unless I can come up with a use for them.