HDA1000Z11WH Hotpoint Dishwasher - Instructions

My old timer stopped rotating. Ordered this one. It showed up and the part number is off by one digit. Put the new one in, and the timer rotates fine, however water is no longer coming into the dishwasher. Put the old timer back in and manually rotated it and water comes in no problem. So we figured the old timer's electrical motor is burned out, and the new timer's signaling function is probably a bit different.

Turns out the motor is really easy to remove, just pry the metal latch out a bit with a flat screwdriver and out it comes. We put the motor from the new timer on our old timer, and presto, everything works!

Like other reviewers said here, pop off the seven screws and the interior door panel comes right off. Disconnect the power plug, signal plug and ground plug and reverse the procedure. Really easy repair. Make sure you shut off the fuse panel before starting the repair.

First, remove the bottom front covers (two parts four screws). Second, remove the two screws at the top that secure the dishwasher to the counter. Third, gently pull away the dishwasher from underneath the counter just far enough to see and be able to remove the door spring(s) - one on each side. Fourth, remove the existing hinge arm link(s) if not already broken off, replace with the new one(s). Note that the door hinge goes on the door (front) side of the spring and the other side fits into a groove on the door arm - the other end of the spring attaches to one of the 3 available holes on the frame at the bottom. It would be a good idea to replace the hinge arm links on both sides even if only one is broken. Make sure that the door has the right tension (each spring can be hooked in 1 of 3 holes to adjust the tension). Then gently push the dishwasher back under the counter. Finally, replace the screws under the counter and replace the covers on the bottom front. All of this should take no more than 15-20 minutes. This was an easy job!

All new seals

I removed the old valve with wrench and Philips screw driver.Unscrewed the mounting plate and water hose. When I went to replace the new water inlet valve, I found that there was a mismatch on the screw holes for the new mounting plate. Different screw threads. I tried to find screws that would fit, but didn't have any.So I manged to make the old screws re-thread themselves and hold the plate in place. I then attached the water hose and started the dishwasher up. Make sure to power off the unit then power it back on to clear and reset the programming. Works great now.

followed instructions that came with the part. My dishwasher had a slightly different configuration than what the directions said so disassembly took a few minutes to figure out. Once that was done, the removal of the old impeller assembly and installation of the new went quite smoothly. The replacement assembly had a "grater" which was not present on my original however it installed perfectly and no longer leaks.

I replaced the entire Water Inlet Valve. The part was perfect and fixed the problem. The only difficulty was the brass elbow connection that connects to the incoming water line had plumbing putting that connected it to the old Water Inlet Valve. I had to get a couple of large adjustable wrenches to take it off. I needed it as I didn't want to buy another one. I was thankful that I had some extra plumbing putty on hand to seal the threads when I put the brass elbow back on the new Water Inlet Valve. That saved me a trip to the hardware story. All in all, I'm very pleased that I was able to fix this myself. I'm not exactly a Mr. Fixit, so this was a good experience.

replaced the master toner relay.

Key symptom: when the drain phase begins, there should be a satisfying "Thunk" from the solenoid. No Thunk=solenoid not working

Turned off power and water to dishwasher, removed kick plate to dishwasher, removed mounting bracket from frame rail of dishwasher, unplugged valve then used pliers to remove spring clamp on rubber line and used box wrench to remove water line attached to brass connection. There was a lot of calcium build up around screen and rubber O-ring and cleaning that may have fixed it but pulled off anyhow. One problem I had is that the old part would not come apart where the L-joint screwed into the collar that attaches to valve on old setup to allow new one to be bolted to it. So I looked at putting new valve on the old mounting bracket. That did not work after I got it apart as the new bracket is flat while the old is counter sunk...and the new valve has a larger footprint and would not fit flush to seal. So back to work bench and put valve in vise as the threads had plumbers pipe cement it looked like and they were tight. Got the two joints apart...cleaned with wire brush...sanded down mouth of brass collar that fits against O-Ring of new valve to make sure clean. Put teflon tape on all threads and tightened it all back up. Reconnected, plugged in, mounted to dishwasher and ran a full cycle with dishwasher pulled out so I could monitor any leakage from beginning. All is good...so slid back under sink and ran load with dishes...noticed water on floor. Freaked out...pulled it all out and valve was dry. I forgot to clean up the little bit of water that came out of lines when disconnected first time for repair... :) All is good now.

I firts turned off power to the diswasher through the circuit breaker panel. I removed the black tray at the bottom front of the dishwasher, removed the two screws attaching the water inlet valve, detached inlet and outlet water hoses as well as the eletric connector. I removed fitting from the old valve and installed in the new valve using some teflon tape. Installation is the reverse of the removal.

Had to install a new door latch. The installation itself is really quite simple involving removing (separating) the inner door panel to access the latch assembly. The latch is removed by simple push through one slot with a screw driver and the new unit basically pops in through grooved slots. However, I did find it quite helpful to first (and during) review a YouTube video illustrating the replacement. Although it is largely a simple procedure, for the first-time "installer" there are still a few tricky nuances to be aware of.

I unscrewed the front of the door almost to the bottom hinges and removed the latch. Went on line and ordered a replacement. The replacement arrived in a couple days (yeh), was identical to the one I had removed. I could have used another hand but went ahead and replaced it myself. It worked perfectly and I screwed everything back in place. I'm a 73-year-old female, good at taking things apart but not always good at putting them back together but will try anything. Was elated that I could repair it and it actually worked. Great service from your company!

This repair was not difficult except that the part was hard to get to. You need to lay on the ground and the space is small to fit the tools in. It was especially difficult to squeeze the hose clamp on and off. If you are the handy sort and would not be intimidated by pulling the dishwasher out (like I was), then I recommend doing that. Changing the actual part was a breeze and self explanatory. Be sure to shut off the power and water supply to the dishwasher. Bring a towel to soak up residual water in the hose. Watch the video on this site, it was exactly what I needed to see! I was able to fix my mom's dishwasher! What a great feeling!

took the front covers off, used om meter as suggested after disconnecting the wire plug. discovered infinity, so as suggested, determined the valve defective. Ordered over the new valve from this company. After it arrived, took the old valve off by removing it from the bracket. Used the pliers to take the hose off, then unscrewed the supply hose by usung the adjustable wrench. Took the old valve to my shop vise to hold it firmly, then unscrewed the fitting, wrapped the tape suggested and installed it on the new valve. Took it back to the dishwasher, screwed the supply hose on, slipped the hose on and the clamp, turned on the water to check for leaks. Found non, so installed the valve on the frame, turned on the power and checked for filling. Itfilled fine and operated like it was supposed to. Put the front covers back on, and enjoyed praise from wife!!!

Followed easy instructions and completed repair in less than 30 minutes.