GSB2800E*116 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I reinstalled a new piston/nut assembly which was easy as per this forum. The two compared side to side clearly showed my old one as worn out and deteriorated. This however wasn't the only problem. Once new piston/nut assembly was installed the water still did not drain. I pulled the dishwasher out from the cabinet, disconnected the hose connected from the pump to the outer box the piston/nut assembly connected to and flushed that out. I discovered two pieces of broken glass in the box that may have been blocking the rubber flapper connecting the box to the drain hose. Glass was removed and once all was reconnected the unit drained perfectly. Check for potential debris in outer piston/nut assembly piece if simple change out of of piston/nut assembly doesn't solve the issue.

Followed previous directions which were easy. Hard on back trying to reach over door all the way to the back. My DW is over 15 yrs old and the plastic plug w/corroded and locked into place. Tried turning it by hand to no avail since the plug turning lips were worn off/or not long enought to grasp it with. Took a hammer and chisel to the lips and turned it about an inch counter clockwise (either way), then lifted it out prying it with a screwdriver. KEEP IN MIND THE THREADS ARE JUST FOR LOCKING IT IN PLACE AND THE PLUG CAN BE TURNED EITHER WAY. IT DOES NOT SCREW IN!! Cleaned it with DW40 and reassembled it.

I removed the old cap and put on the new cap.

After some investigation on the internet and partselect.com, ordered and replaced the piston and nut assembly inside the back of the dishwasher and the problem was fixed.

Dishwasher kept displaying error code C1 (drain partly blocked) and occasionally C2 (Drain completely blocked). The drain was fine. Parts Select said symptom "not draining" needed a check valve. Installed that (old one was very worn), but that didn't help. I decided to take off the bottom panel and eyeball the situation. Discovered a leak from the drain valve. But I also discovered the reason for the error codes. The leak had rusted the actuator in the drain valve solenoid so that it couldn't move reliably. So when drain time came, the drain valve didn't open, resulting in a C1 or C2 error (the washer electronics thought the drain was blocked--and in a way it was. I got the replacement parts for the leaking drain valve and installed them. Hints: take a photo of the assembly before you take it apart. Getting the push on nut off was an ordeal, as some have said. I spend at least two hours getting it off. I hope you have secret tool X13 to make it faster. Hint #2: There is play in the drain valve shaft, so I held it toward me with a pair of pliers while I pushed the new push on nut all the way tight to hold the new rubber washer. Hint #3: I used plumber's grease on the washer and shaft to make installation easier. I found the two pairs of long-handled needle nose pliers very useful. Oh, I sanded the rust off the solenoid actuator and added a bit of WD-40 and now the error code problem (as well as the leak) is over.

nothing to it. slid old one out, slid new one in. however, replacement was not the same model as the original.

I removed the broken stub of the old fill cap with a screw remover. This was the only part that wasn't easy. The new cap fit fine.

Original part no longer made. Substitute too small by a half an inch. Corrected the problem by removing the 4 corner wheels from the old rack and put them on the new one. Now, it fits and works perfectly.

I looked on Part select at the model number of the dishwasher. I looked at the diagram of the diswassher and the hose. I read some of the repair stories. And became sure the upper hose was my problem and was armed with the ability now to fix my machine. Thanks PartSelect

First, I unscrewed the bottom panels and then I unscrewed the two screws that secure the dishwasher to the counter. I would advise one to unplug the machine first, but I couldn't find where the unit is plugged in, so I fixed it while it was connected to power. Then I pulled the dishwasher out far enough that I could access the hose located on the left side. Then I unscrewed two screws which secure the upper spray arm, and removed the top part of the broken hose. I learned the hard way that I should have removed as much water as possible prior to making the repair. So water started coming out of the hose. I proceeded to drain the machine via the hose into a bucket. The hardest part of the repair was accessing the screw that fastens the lower part of the hose to the pump--I'm assuming it's the pump(?). Getting the top part of the hose through the hole took a little effort, but the rest was easy. I was amazed at how quickly PartSelect got me the part: early on the day after I ordered and I did not pay for overnight shipping!

Overall easy-peasy. The hardest part was getting the dishwasher out from under the counter, once out the problem was self evident, the rubber fitting ( end of hose to dishwasher) was deteriorated. The insulation blanket was water soaked also. The actual time to replace the hose was less than 30 min. but the total job took 3 days, ordering and delivery of part( PartSelect 2 day service) and drying of insulation blanket. The rubber fitting into the washer is tight, I used some Vaseline. Have plenty of towels ready when any hoses are disconnected, they are all full of water. Good luck .Cheers Fritz

took off old part, put on new part and that was not the problem.

Simply followed the instructions for the part on the part page. One thing that helped taking out some screws was to remove a couple of the brackets that hold the heating element and move it slightly. I would suggest cleaning all of the gunk out of drains and clean all holes in the screens using a toothpick, etc. Be careful not to overtighten the nut for the next time you have to do this!

looked up the model no. on partselect web site and they discribed several diagnoses for different problems.they gave a 19% probability for a bad valve and nut. i removed the cover and the nut valve and the valve looked pretty bad. i ordered a new part and delivery was very good.i replaced the part and that took care of my problem. i was very happy with the whole repair.

2 screws to remove valve, turn water off, detach water line, detach plastic water outlet line, and put the new one on, reattaching everything in reverse. Electrical hookup was just two wires to solenoid. Slipped them off and back on new valve solenoid. Some difficulty getting support screws back in.